Technics SP10 mk2
Jan Allaerts MC 1 Boron mk1 cart
Miyajima Shilabe cart
Hashimoto HM-X SUT
Siggwan (gimballed not unipivot) Cocobola 12"
Aurorasound Vida LCR Phonostage
The Truth linestage
Dave Slagle Autoformer Volume Controller
Cary 805c SET amps
Audio Note ANe-SPX speakers
Townshend Isolda speaker cables
Cardas Golden Presence interconnects
According to the original post priority is SQ - in which case I'd suggest Slagle or Truth. But that's only my opinion.
Technics SP10 mk2
Jan Allaerts MC 1 Boron mk1 cart
Miyajima Shilabe cart
Hashimoto HM-X SUT
Siggwan (gimballed not unipivot) Cocobola 12"
Aurorasound Vida LCR Phonostage
The Truth linestage
Dave Slagle Autoformer Volume Controller
Cary 805c SET amps
Audio Note ANe-SPX speakers
Townshend Isolda speaker cables
Cardas Golden Presence interconnects
I found quite a significant difference between the Tisbury and other, more expensive passives.
Current Lash Up:
TEAC VRDS 701T > Sony TAE1000ESD > Krell KSA50S > JM Labs Focal Electra 926.
+1
Technics SP10 mk2
Jan Allaerts MC 1 Boron mk1 cart
Miyajima Shilabe cart
Hashimoto HM-X SUT
Siggwan (gimballed not unipivot) Cocobola 12"
Aurorasound Vida LCR Phonostage
The Truth linestage
Dave Slagle Autoformer Volume Controller
Cary 805c SET amps
Audio Note ANe-SPX speakers
Townshend Isolda speaker cables
Cardas Golden Presence interconnects
It's not a good idea to have more than one output with a passive.
Arkless Electronics-Engineered to be better. Tel. 01670 530674 (after 1pm)
Modded Thorens TD150, Audio Technica AT-1005 MkII, Technics EPC-300MC, Arkless Hybrid MC phono stage, Arkless passive pre, Arkless 50WPC Class A SS power amp, (or) Arkless modded Leak Stereo 20, Modded Kef Reference 105/3's
ReVox PR99, Studer B62, Ferrograph Series 7, Tandberg TCD440, Hitachi FT-5500MkI, also FT-5500MkII
Digital: Yamaha CDR-HD1500 (Digital Swiss army knife-CD recorder, player, hard drive, DAC and ADC in one), PC files via 24/96 sound card and SPDIF, modded Philips CD850, modded Philips CD104, modded DPA Little Bit DAC. Sennheiser HD580 cans with Arkless Headphone amp.
Cables- free interconnects that come with CD players, mains leads from B&Q, dead kettles etc, extension leads from Tesco
I knew you would ask.... The worst case generally CAN be when one item is switched off. If you have a passive pre (this applies to all pres really but passives will be vastly more effected, some valve gear second worse here) driving both your power amp and a headphone amp (or anything else) then the two amps being driven "see" each others inputs. Sometimes when gear is switched off its input impedance can be highly non linear and can cause distortion which you hear via the amp that is switched on. An AOS member had just such an issue a couple of weeks ago I recall. Even much less serious scenarios are highly likely to degrade SQ. Things connected to "Tape out" can have a similar effect BTW.
Without analysing specific makes and models of kit and having access to their circuit diagrams etc it's impossible to say precisely what kit will be adversely effected etc.
To climb on to my soapbox, it's one of the MANY things in audio that are important but virtually ignored by/not known to audiophiles... whilst meanwhile they obsess about stuff so unimportant it probably makes no difference....
Arkless Electronics-Engineered to be better. Tel. 01670 530674 (after 1pm)
Modded Thorens TD150, Audio Technica AT-1005 MkII, Technics EPC-300MC, Arkless Hybrid MC phono stage, Arkless passive pre, Arkless 50WPC Class A SS power amp, (or) Arkless modded Leak Stereo 20, Modded Kef Reference 105/3's
ReVox PR99, Studer B62, Ferrograph Series 7, Tandberg TCD440, Hitachi FT-5500MkI, also FT-5500MkII
Digital: Yamaha CDR-HD1500 (Digital Swiss army knife-CD recorder, player, hard drive, DAC and ADC in one), PC files via 24/96 sound card and SPDIF, modded Philips CD850, modded Philips CD104, modded DPA Little Bit DAC. Sennheiser HD580 cans with Arkless Headphone amp.
Cables- free interconnects that come with CD players, mains leads from B&Q, dead kettles etc, extension leads from Tesco
Location: Coventry, England UK
Posts: 534
I'm Simon.
I like the Tisbury but I ideally need more control of volume (more steps) because while I can generally find a good volume without problem at normal/louder levels it can be difficult at lower volumes to get what I need (due to thin walls and neighbours). One setting is too low but then the next has a bigger volume jump than I'd like.
Also I've read that while the Tisbury is great and super good value for money, I see many comment that it's easily beatable for not too much more money.
That was me also. Seems this could be trickier to sort out than I initially thought... I really don't want to be plugging the headphone amp in/out all the time. Even if I had 2 passives, 1 for amp and 1 for headphone amp I'd still have the problem of connecting up both outputs on my DAC into the passives and having the distortion problem I had in the other thread. So even using a tape out no good either...?