Posting board to you today, Arkless, if ok? First class so hopefully you can give me the verdict on if you can repair it/whether or not it is that in time for that eBay one. Cheers!
Posting board to you today, Arkless, if ok? First class so hopefully you can give me the verdict on if you can repair it/whether or not it is that in time for that eBay one. Cheers!
Arkless Electronics-Engineered to be better. Tel. 01670 530674 (after 1pm)
Modded Thorens TD150, Audio Technica AT-1005 MkII, Technics EPC-300MC, Arkless Hybrid MC phono stage, Arkless passive pre, Arkless 50WPC Class A SS power amp, (or) Arkless modded Leak Stereo 20, Modded Kef Reference 105/3's
ReVox PR99, Studer B62, Ferrograph Series 7, Tandberg TCD440, Hitachi FT-5500MkI, also FT-5500MkII
Digital: Yamaha CDR-HD1500 (Digital Swiss army knife-CD recorder, player, hard drive, DAC and ADC in one), PC files via 24/96 sound card and SPDIF, modded Philips CD850, modded Philips CD104, modded DPA Little Bit DAC. Sennheiser HD580 cans with Arkless Headphone amp.
Cables- free interconnects that come with CD players, mains leads from B&Q, dead kettles etc, extension leads from Tesco
Yeah, off t'internet! Cheers!
Did you see my post about the geezer having a new capstan motor for your 62?
I did thanks. It's not a priority for me to fix it and I wouldn't be willing to pay the going rate so my B62 will probably remain an objet 'd art. It could do with a new pinch roller as well and I definitely won't pay what they go for! £100 for a rubber wheel? Nah. (if anyone knows where they are available for half that I'm still not interested I'm afraid). I have a much better machine in my PR99 MkIII for the once in 5 years I may actually use a R2R....
Your board just arrived BTW
Arkless Electronics-Engineered to be better. Tel. 01670 530674 (after 1pm)
Modded Thorens TD150, Audio Technica AT-1005 MkII, Technics EPC-300MC, Arkless Hybrid MC phono stage, Arkless passive pre, Arkless 50WPC Class A SS power amp, (or) Arkless modded Leak Stereo 20, Modded Kef Reference 105/3's
ReVox PR99, Studer B62, Ferrograph Series 7, Tandberg TCD440, Hitachi FT-5500MkI, also FT-5500MkII
Digital: Yamaha CDR-HD1500 (Digital Swiss army knife-CD recorder, player, hard drive, DAC and ADC in one), PC files via 24/96 sound card and SPDIF, modded Philips CD850, modded Philips CD104, modded DPA Little Bit DAC. Sennheiser HD580 cans with Arkless Headphone amp.
Cables- free interconnects that come with CD players, mains leads from B&Q, dead kettles etc, extension leads from Tesco
Jez,
This Terrys rubber rollers is supposed to be very good and reasonable price , only problem is he is in America
http://www.terrysrubberrollers.com/
Alan
Turntable - Garrard 401/Jelco 750L/Ortofon Kontrapunkt B, Pioneer PLC 590, Micro Sieki MA505 , Denon DL103R - DIY Paradise Phono stage - Reel 2 Reel Studer A810, Otari MX55,Tascam BR20, Revox A77, B77, PR99, TEAC X1000 & 3440, Digital HTPC / Young Dac - Preamp - DIY B4, 821, Power Amp's DIY Avondale NCC300 Mono Block, Speakers Wilmslow Kit Volt BM220.8 / Scanspeak D2905/9500
I got my replacement for £60 so...
I spent a ridiculous amount of time on the machine as something to "lose myself in" after the death of my father... replaced most of the bearings with scientific grade items etc (very probably didn't need it) and was planning on totally sorting it. When I came to the conclusion that the motor itself was slightly out of true I just gave up on it. It's sat there with a sheet over it for about 18 years now! The pinch roller was useable but hardening back then and would definitely need replacing now. I very rarely use R2R these days so I can't justify maybe £200 (I'm guessing) for a known 100% good motor and £60 - £120 on a pinch roller. Maybe one day I'll have my "vintage head" on and have a flash of inspiration to sort it
Arkless Electronics-Engineered to be better. Tel. 01670 530674 (after 1pm)
Modded Thorens TD150, Audio Technica AT-1005 MkII, Technics EPC-300MC, Arkless Hybrid MC phono stage, Arkless passive pre, Arkless 50WPC Class A SS power amp, (or) Arkless modded Leak Stereo 20, Modded Kef Reference 105/3's
ReVox PR99, Studer B62, Ferrograph Series 7, Tandberg TCD440, Hitachi FT-5500MkI, also FT-5500MkII
Digital: Yamaha CDR-HD1500 (Digital Swiss army knife-CD recorder, player, hard drive, DAC and ADC in one), PC files via 24/96 sound card and SPDIF, modded Philips CD850, modded Philips CD104, modded DPA Little Bit DAC. Sennheiser HD580 cans with Arkless Headphone amp.
Cables- free interconnects that come with CD players, mains leads from B&Q, dead kettles etc, extension leads from Tesco
Jez
I feel sorry for you service engineers with vintage equipment like this you are between a rock and a hard place as what to charge for this type of repair work. What people expect to pay and the actual hours spent to restore these machines just doesn't add up.
If it was a car a garage would charge a fixed hourly rate and extra charges for testing which would make this kind of work a totally uneconomical repair.
I only do this as a hobby but its still obvious from the machines I have restored so far that there are a lot of hours and specialist equipment required to get these vintage machines repaired Calibrated and fully functional again.
This is one area that you have to be aware of if you consider buying Reel 2 Reel machines particularly the vintage ones
That said I still love them and the sound is superb
Alan
Turntable - Garrard 401/Jelco 750L/Ortofon Kontrapunkt B, Pioneer PLC 590, Micro Sieki MA505 , Denon DL103R - DIY Paradise Phono stage - Reel 2 Reel Studer A810, Otari MX55,Tascam BR20, Revox A77, B77, PR99, TEAC X1000 & 3440, Digital HTPC / Young Dac - Preamp - DIY B4, 821, Power Amp's DIY Avondale NCC300 Mono Block, Speakers Wilmslow Kit Volt BM220.8 / Scanspeak D2905/9500
About four years ago I came very close to buying a Studer C37 at a very good price. The seller lived only about 50 miles from me and the machine was in very good condition (complete with VU meter unit).
After a lot of soul-searching, I decided that it would have been a caprice on my part to have the machine as I would not have used it fully, and spares for it would become rare, expensive and difficult to obtain. It seemed wrong to buy it and not use it, and deny the chance for other enthusiasts to properly employ the machine.
So in the end the head won.
Barry
This is why I didn't offer to take over the repair of the entire machine for "Geefresh" and why I only offer to repair electronic faults for customers with R2R's. It should be remembered that a B62 was approx £16000 in todays money and a C37 £35000 when new. Properly overhauling such machines will often cost more than the machine is worth if charging commercial rates for repair. As you say specialises equipment is often required such as calibration tapes... fragile and expensive! I went to the lengths of designing and building my own tape tension gauge when working on my B62...
Arkless Electronics-Engineered to be better. Tel. 01670 530674 (after 1pm)
Modded Thorens TD150, Audio Technica AT-1005 MkII, Technics EPC-300MC, Arkless Hybrid MC phono stage, Arkless passive pre, Arkless 50WPC Class A SS power amp, (or) Arkless modded Leak Stereo 20, Modded Kef Reference 105/3's
ReVox PR99, Studer B62, Ferrograph Series 7, Tandberg TCD440, Hitachi FT-5500MkI, also FT-5500MkII
Digital: Yamaha CDR-HD1500 (Digital Swiss army knife-CD recorder, player, hard drive, DAC and ADC in one), PC files via 24/96 sound card and SPDIF, modded Philips CD850, modded Philips CD104, modded DPA Little Bit DAC. Sennheiser HD580 cans with Arkless Headphone amp.
Cables- free interconnects that come with CD players, mains leads from B&Q, dead kettles etc, extension leads from Tesco