+ Reply to Thread
Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 33

Thread: HELP!!! Studer B62

  1. #11
    Join Date: Jul 2010

    Location: Cheltenham

    Posts: 982
    I'm Charlie.

    Default

    Geoff,

    I hate to say this, but

    IF the machine was truly working as sold to you, then it sounds like your service engineer might have just turned it into a basket case. Sure, some of the Frako caps used in the Studer power supplies were flaky, but changing vast amounts of components before even turning the thing on is just criminal. Yes, some of the components might be out of spec after 40 years plus, but that doesn't mean that you need a mass rebuild. Studer were really OCD in matching components, when assembling the boards. If the components have all drifted a little over time, it probably doesn't matter.

    When I bought my first Sony APR 5002, it pulled tape and it played. It wasn't great, but it "worked". All I needed was the heads relapping, a new battery to save the software settings, lubricating the motors and a line up. My Studer A807/II hasn't had a single thing replaced. My newer Sony APR 5003 hasn't had as single thing done, apart from a tape line up. It is absolutely on the money in terms of line up. These are all 30 year old machines.

    Now I apologise if I have got it wrong and if I have maligned a competent engineer, but I would be distraught, if I was in your shoes. I hope you get a solution, but maybe some of the others can make some sensible suggestions.

    Charlie

  2. #12
    Join Date: Oct 2012

    Location: NE England

    Posts: 4,173
    I'm Jez.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by topoxforddoc View Post
    Geoff,

    I hate to say this, but

    IF the machine was truly working as sold to you, then it sounds like your service engineer might have just turned it into a basket case. Sure, some of the Frako caps used in the Studer power supplies were flaky, but changing vast amounts of components before even turning the thing on is just criminal. Yes, some of the components might be out of spec after 40 years plus, but that doesn't mean that you need a mass rebuild. Studer were really OCD in matching components, when assembling the boards. If the components have all drifted a little over time, it probably doesn't matter.

    When I bought my first Sony APR 5002, it pulled tape and it played. It wasn't great, but it "worked". All I needed was the heads relapping, a new battery to save the software settings, lubricating the motors and a line up. My Studer A807/II hasn't had a single thing replaced. My newer Sony APR 5003 hasn't had as single thing done, apart from a tape line up. It is absolutely on the money in terms of line up. These are all 30 year old machines.

    Now I apologise if I have got it wrong and if I have maligned a competent engineer, but I would be distraught, if I was in your shoes. I hope you get a solution, but maybe some of the others can make some sensible suggestions.

    Charlie
    I didn't want to say it.... but +1. The broken wires bit sounds suss to me....
    Arkless Electronics-Engineered to be better. Tel. 01670 530674 (after 1pm)

    Modded Thorens TD150, Audio Technica AT-1005 MkII, Technics EPC-300MC, Arkless Hybrid MC phono stage, Arkless passive pre, Arkless 50WPC Class A SS power amp, (or) Arkless modded Leak Stereo 20, Modded Kef Reference 105/3's
    ReVox PR99, Studer B62, Ferrograph Series 7, Tandberg TCD440, Hitachi FT-5500MkI, also FT-5500MkII
    Digital: Yamaha CDR-HD1500 (Digital Swiss army knife-CD recorder, player, hard drive, DAC and ADC in one), PC files via 24/96 sound card and SPDIF, modded Philips CD850, modded Philips CD104, modded DPA Little Bit DAC. Sennheiser HD580 cans with Arkless Headphone amp.
    Cables- free interconnects that come with CD players, mains leads from B&Q, dead kettles etc, extension leads from Tesco

  3. #13
    Join Date: Aug 2012

    Location: Hartlepool UK

    Posts: 1,640
    I'm Alan.

    Default

    Its a shame after all that work that its still not working
    BTW £200 is very cheap for the extent of the work carried out
    If the motor tests OK it should still be possible to get the control board working
    I wouldn't give up on it

    Alan
    Turntable - Garrard 401/Jelco 750L/Ortofon Kontrapunkt B, Pioneer PLC 590, Micro Sieki MA505 , Denon DL103R - DIY Paradise Phono stage - Reel 2 Reel Studer A810, Otari MX55,Tascam BR20, Revox A77, B77, PR99, TEAC X1000 & 3440, Digital HTPC / Young Dac - Preamp - DIY B4, 821, Power Amp's DIY Avondale NCC300 Mono Block, Speakers Wilmslow Kit Volt BM220.8 / Scanspeak D2905/9500

  4. #14
    Join Date: Nov 2016

    Location: UK London

    Posts: 236
    I'm Chris.

    Default

    Try Steve at Vintage tech.

    https://www.vintagetech.co.uk/
    Turntable : Project 2 Xperience Tone Arm & Cartridge : Project 9c Ortofon 2M Blue Phono Stage : Project Phono Box SE II Digital Source :Primare CD21 Integrated Amp : Primare I30 Speakers : ProAc 110 Headphones : Beyerdynamic DT770 Pro

    Revox A77 MK IV 2 track 15 & 7 1/2 IPS
    TEAC A-3300SX 4 track 7 1/2 & 3 3/4 IPS
    Akai 4000DS MkII

  5. #15
    Join Date: Feb 2009

    Location: Surrey, England UK

    Posts: 591
    I'm Stewart.

    Default

    I was going to comment about the broken wires - anyone who has ever seen the way these things are built would be equally bemused by such a statement - even if it had been dropped from quite a height the bracing of the main chassis is so strong as to make such occurrances highly unlikely.
    Stewart.

  6. #16
    Join Date: Nov 2016

    Location: UK London

    Posts: 236
    I'm Chris.

    Default

    Being a person who has done chassis wiring and made many wiring looms/harnesses etc how on earth would/could a wire break actually within the loom ?
    Turntable : Project 2 Xperience Tone Arm & Cartridge : Project 9c Ortofon 2M Blue Phono Stage : Project Phono Box SE II Digital Source :Primare CD21 Integrated Amp : Primare I30 Speakers : ProAc 110 Headphones : Beyerdynamic DT770 Pro

    Revox A77 MK IV 2 track 15 & 7 1/2 IPS
    TEAC A-3300SX 4 track 7 1/2 & 3 3/4 IPS
    Akai 4000DS MkII

  7. #17
    Join Date: Jul 2010

    Location: Cheltenham

    Posts: 982
    I'm Charlie.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Cas View Post
    Being a person who has done chassis wiring and made many wiring looms/harnesses etc how on earth would/could a wire break actually within the loom ?
    +1

  8. #18
    Join Date: Jul 2010

    Location: Cheltenham

    Posts: 982
    I'm Charlie.

    Default

    Geoff,

    I'm sorry if the last few posts have been rather negative - that's not a reflection on you, but just a realistic view of what might have happened. Stewart (Lodgesound) has fettled more machines than almost anyone else in the UK, given his background at the BBC, C4 and the BFI. Studer machines are normally built like proverbial tanks. They were designed for constant use day in day out. I suspect that you should be able to salvage your terrible predicament, but it's likely to cost you more money.

    A fully restored B62 might fetch £1500, so you still have some credit in the bank, so to speak. But only you can make a decision as to what to do next. you will get most of your money back, as a B62 requiring work will still fetch some money. The think about R2R (as a hobbyist rather than as a pro engineer) is to buy the very best machine you can find - it's cheaper in the long run (just like classic cars). If I were looking for another machine (which I'm not, as I have 3), I would be buying Telefunken M15A or M20 from Hilpert (who provided AEG Telefunken service, before buying the company).

    http://www.hilpert-audio.de/audio/in...te_aeg_m15.htm

    http://www.hilpert-audio.de/audio/in...te_aeg_m20.htm

  9. #19
    Join Date: Jun 2016

    Location: Margate

    Posts: 69
    I'm Geoff.

    Default

    So I picked it up yesterday and I am a bit more reassured. There's a transformer on the board and he says it's either that or a wiring loom fault. He said he tested the motor and that's fine and he has spares of those anyway (if you want one, Arkless?).

  10. #20
    Join Date: Jun 2016

    Location: Margate

    Posts: 69
    I'm Geoff.

    Default

    Just seen all the other replies. Thanks.

    Yes, I thought the wires breaking thing was a bit weird so I asked him about it and he said that something or other wasn't working so he bridged that part of loom out with another bit of wire and it worked, so...

    I think pretty much all he works on is A77s, B77s and PR99s so it's possible he was a bit out of his comfort zone. But, still, from what you say about standard working practises, I guess that appears to have been lacking. I won't name names here altho, if anyone is interested, I think I mentioned it in a previous post.

    There's a capstan board on eBay now but that's an £80 risk that it is actually that. I guess the best course of action from here would be to first take Arkless up on his offer to send mine to him to try in his machine and go from there. It still needs biasing/aligning etc etc so I'll have to take it somewhere for that before sale anyway.

+ Reply to Thread
Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •