The Mike New Technics Bearing

[Mike_New]

Hi Anthony,
I provide a very clear set of instructions with every Bearing. I email these the day
I post the Bearing so that the customer does not forget about them!!!

However to answer your question, the protruding wires if you have some should be trimmed down to the top of the solder pads. This is a very simple procedure done with a pair of nail trimmers, that's all you need to do.

Warning:
There is alternative "advice" somewhere on the internet forums and supplied to at least one customer by a former distributor.
This advice says that the solder ball must be filed down level with the circuit board surface.
This is most definitely not required and is totally incorrect and very stupid advice.
I traced the origin to some forum in France which I could not contact.
If anyone here has further info then let me know as I would be interested to understand where the person is coming from.

[Ants]

Thanks Mike, that makes sense. I thought some of the things I read were not right - need the solder for the components to hold and also connect with the traces on the PCB

����

Anthony

[mikeyb]

I just used a small pair of wire cutters and trimmed off the little tabs protruding above the solder ball, try and remember to catch them all so they don't rattle around and interfere with anything later on.

Takes about 30 seconds to do.

[Mike_New]

Thanks Mike, that makes sense. I thought some of the things I read were not right - need the solder for the components to hold and also connect with the traces on the PCB

����

Anthony

Anthony,
From your quote above have you read alternative instructions, if so where?

[Ants]

Mike,

Just read instructions at http://hifipig.com/mike-new-bearing-...210-turntable/
I thought what was written was a little ambiguous so I just thought I'd double check. There was also some instructions on the web edition of the HiFi world review Feb 2015 (?) but from what i recall it was less ambiguous - however, I have been unable to access this as the particular e-edtion is 'being updated' for weeks now.....A lot of the Hi fi World Magstand website doesn't actually work now.... frustrating

Anthony

[Mike_New]

Hi Folks,
I have received 8 committed orders for my Bearings and much encouragement from prospective buyers
to make another batch of 25.
So I have decided to go for it! If you are contemplating getting one then please do so now, as I hope not to still have the
remainder in stock 10 months from now.

[Mike_New]

Hi Folks,
If this works we should have a picture of the internals of my Bearing which I do not think I have ever shown in detail before.
I have not done so before as I did not particularly want to make it any easier for those who would want to copy my rather unique design.
However at this stage I feel I should give others a chance!!



I will provide a detailed description so that the value of the Bearing can be appreciated:

a) The large left hand component is the rear or bottom base of the Bearing
b) The thin brass plate is the bottom support attached by the 3 4mm tensile bolts shown in the foreground
c) The triangular component is the coated carbide thrust pad which supports the Ball.
d) The black ball in the center of the assembly is of course the 3/8" precision Silicone Nitride Ball
This ball is fully floating inside the main shaft, and is located at the bottom of the shaft.
The 13.5mm dia. main shaft itself can be seen resting on the Syntered Oilite lateral bearing insert.
Note the counter bored hole to occomodate the thrust ball. The diameter of this hole is precisely fixed to allow the
smallest amount of lateral play and to provide the circulation of the special oil.
e) The cylindrical component with the flange at the left hand side and just behind the ball is the Syntered Phosphor Bronze
Oilite bearing insert.
f) The complex machined component at the top right of the picture is the main Bearing Housing. Machned from a solid
brass bar. Note the large rigid center column which occomodates the syntered bearing.
The Syntered bearing insert is a heat shrink and force fit into the housing to producing the maximum rigidity from the assembly.
When the inserts have been installed into the Bearings I then send them to my Toolmakers who precision hone each bearing insert
individually to fit the shafts which they have previously made, with a clearance measured in microns.

The shafts are precision machined from M22 carbon steel before hardening and Nitriding.
They are then polished to a surface finish of a few microns.

The whole object of my Bearing design some 6 years ago now; was to optimise the limited volumetric space available.
And to provide a Bearing with the maximum length and diameter possible. This I believe I have done.
When the honed and fitted shafts are returned to me I then machine the bottom plate for each bearing so that the Taper
is set to a standard position/height according to a master gauge.
The base plate, carbide pad and ball must be assembled for this procedure.
When all Bearings have been assembled and the end plates bolted and sealed with Loktite, the bottom base of the
Bearing is then filled with sythetic oil and sealed.
You can see the hole in the base through which I use a hyperdermic needle to feed the oil.
This hole is then sealed with a brass pin and the whole back end is then finish machined.

The whole design centres around the extremely high precision polished shaft which provides for exceptionally smooth
yet firm rotation. Something nobody else has has been able to achieve with all the variations which come and go.


I guess it would be evident to the reader by now, why these Bearings are the standard by which all the other offerings are measured
in both engineering quality and sonics which is the most important consideration.

[WOStantonCS100]

Hi Folks,
If this works we should have a picture of the internals of my Bearing which I do not think I have ever shown in detail before.
I have not done so before as I did not particularly want to make it any easier for those who would want to copy my rather unique design.
However at this stage I feel I should give others a chance!!



I will provide a detailed description so that the value of the Bearing can be appreciated:

a) The large left hand component is the rear or bottom base of the Bearing
b) The thin brass plate is the bottom support attached by the 3 4mm tensile bolts shown in the foreground
c) The triangular component is the coated carbide thrust pad which supports the Ball.
d) The black ball in the center of the assembly is of course the 3/8" precision Silicone Nitride Ball
This ball is fully floating inside the main shaft, and is located at the bottom of the shaft.
The 13.5mm dia. main shaft itself can be seen resting on the Syntered Oilite lateral bearing insert.
Note the counter bored hole to occomodate the thrust ball. The diameter of this hole is precisely fixed to allow the
smallest amount of lateral play and to provide the circulation of the special oil.
e) The cylindrical component with the flange at the left hand side and just behind the ball is the Syntered Phosphor Bronze
Oilite bearing insert.
f) The complex machined component at the top right of the picture is the main Bearing Housing. Machned from a solid
brass bar. Note the large rigid center column which occomodates the syntered bearing.
The Syntered bearing insert is a heat shrink and force fit into the housing to producing the maximum rigidity from the assembly.
When the inserts have been installed into the Bearings I then send them to my Toolmakers who precision hone each bearing insert
individually to fit the shafts which they have previously made, with a clearance measured in microns.

The shafts are precision machined from M22 carbon steel before hardening and Nitriding.
They are then polished to a surface finish of a few microns.

The whole object of my Bearing design some 6 years ago now; was to optimise the limited volumetric space available.
And to provide a Bearing with the maximum length and diameter possible. This I believe I have done.
When the honed and fitted shafts are returned to me I then machine the bottom plate for each bearing so that the Taper
is set to a standard position/height according to a master gauge.
The base plate, carbide pad and ball must be assembled for this procedure.
When all Bearings have been assembled and the end plates bolted and sealed with Loktite, the bottom base of the
Bearing is then filled with sythetic oil and sealed.
You can see the hole in the base through which I use a hyperdermic needle to feed the oil.
This hole is then sealed with a brass pin and the whole back end is then finish machined.

The whole design centres around the extremely high precision polished shaft which provides for exceptionally smooth
yet firm rotation. Something nobody else has has been able to achieve with all the variations which come and go.


I guess it would be evident to the reader by now, why these Bearings are the standard by which all the other offerings are measured
in both engineering quality and sonics which is the most important consideration.

Damn well nailed that shut.

But, a part of me wishes you would remove that picture. Those that claim they can make a better sounding, better built, better lasting bearing... let 'em figure it out on their own. As for me, glad I bought one these things way back when. Still works like the day I got it (and it's got a bum load of hours on it, now) and still sounds like... well, nothing really.

If any of you don't have one of these bearings in your 1200, yet... ...then you just don't have one in your 1200. And, if you're doing the audiophile thing, you are missing out, in my not so humble opinion.

[CageyH]

It's nice to see the internals at last.
Good luck with the future sales.

[Mike_New]

Damn well nailed that shut.

But, a part of me wishes you would remove that picture. Those that claim they can make a better sounding, better built, better lasting bearing... let 'em figure it out on their own. As for me, glad I bought one these things way back when. Still works like the day I got it (and it's got a bum load of hours on it, now) and still sounds like... well, nothing really.

If any of you don't have one of these bearings in your 1200, yet... ...then you just don't have one in your 1200. And, if you're doing the audiophile thing, you are missing out, in my not so humble opinion.

Now you can all see why my Bearings cost just a little bit more than some of the stuff that people still seem to be only to
willing to pay hundreds of dollars for. All the "modifications" and "improvements" to the existing bearing are so pointless as they
do not address the single largest problem inherent in it's design.
If I were not producing these Bearings myself and selling them direct to the end customer, they would
need be more expensive in order to cover costs and overheads.