There's no benefit in principle from having separate pre and power amps... but in practice most manufacturers save their best designs for their separate pre and power models. Historically, valve power amps were big, hot and heavy and back in the day were designed to be placed out of site, often in the base of a console which held all the equipment. The small. light and only warm pre could then be fitted flush to the teak console where it controlled everything... hence its other name of control amp.
Separates do of course also bring the advantage that you can pick and choose the pre and power you wish to put together rather than both being set in stone in an integrated.
As to SS V valve and active V passive well how long is a piece of string, how many opinions do you want and did you book the 15 minute argument or the full half hour?
A separate phono stage is something I can help you with but I don't think you mentioned whether you use vinyl or not...
Arkless Electronics-Engineered to be better. Tel. 01670 530674 (after 1pm)
Modded Thorens TD150, Audio Technica AT-1005 MkII, Technics EPC-300MC, Arkless Hybrid MC phono stage, Arkless passive pre, Arkless 50WPC Class A SS power amp, (or) Arkless modded Leak Stereo 20, Modded Kef Reference 105/3's
ReVox PR99, Studer B62, Ferrograph Series 7, Tandberg TCD440, Hitachi FT-5500MkI, also FT-5500MkII
Digital: Yamaha CDR-HD1500 (Digital Swiss army knife-CD recorder, player, hard drive, DAC and ADC in one), PC files via 24/96 sound card and SPDIF, modded Philips CD850, modded Philips CD104, modded DPA Little Bit DAC. Sennheiser HD580 cans with Arkless Headphone amp.
Cables- free interconnects that come with CD players, mains leads from B&Q, dead kettles etc, extension leads from Tesco