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Thread: Project 1200

  1. #41
    Join Date: Jul 2012

    Location: Wimborne

    Posts: 701
    I'm Alex.

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    Wondering whether I should also spray the base to match. Any thoughts...?

  2. #42
    Bigman80 Guest

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    That's it, just crack on. Itll turn out better than you think

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  3. #43
    Join Date: May 2012

    Location: Toulouse, France

    Posts: 6,562
    I'm Kevin.

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    Quote Originally Posted by alcarmichael View Post
    Wondering whether I should also spray the base to match. Any thoughts...?
    The base is rubber. It won't be easy to paint.
    The easiest thing to hide the rubber base will be a plinth.
    Kevin

    Too busy enjoying the music....

    European loan coordinator for Graham Slee HiFi system components..

  4. #44
    Join Date: Jul 2012

    Location: Wimborne

    Posts: 701
    I'm Alex.

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    Yeah this was my concern. I have looked at plastic primer but unsure how well the finish will turn out...


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  5. #45
    Join Date: Apr 2012

    Location: N E Kent

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    I'm Geoff.

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    There are special rubber paints, but none are particularly durable. Best left alone in my opinion.

    (Just wondering if a vinyl wrap would work?)
    It is impossible for anything digital to sound analogue, because it isn't analogue!

  6. #46
    Join Date: Nov 2010

    Location: Yorkshire

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    I'm Andrew.

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    Yep leave the rubber base alone they can be hard to source if you dont like the results.
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  7. #47
    Join Date: Jan 2013

    Location: Carlisle - UK

    Posts: 1,956
    I'm Ken.

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    Just freshen the base up with some Black trim wax.

    Rub the primer down LIGHTLY with some 1200 grit (Wet) before applying the colour and do the same before applying the clear lacquer. Cans do not give the best finish and can give an Orange peel finish when multiple coats are applied, flatting it after every few coats will give a better end result.

  8. #48
    Join Date: Nov 2016

    Location: North East England

    Posts: 585
    I'm Mick.

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    My base was scratched and not very good. I took it off and used soapy water and very fine wet and dry and its now a lovely matt finish. The best way is to make sure you keep the paper wet and only sand backwards and forwards and not circular. Dont paint it as the paint will crack and fail and will look a mess.
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  9. #49
    Join Date: Nov 2016

    Location: Australia

    Posts: 38
    I'm Con.

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    Hi Alex , you can try VHT bumper and trim paint it's quite durable ,I have used it extensively and works very well, plus once painted and installed you won't need to handle it very often . Ps : it only comes in satin black unfortunately . Hope this might help.

  10. #50
    Join Date: Jan 2013

    Location: Carlisle - UK

    Posts: 1,956
    I'm Ken.

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    Bumper paint will not handle the softness of the rubber base, if you flex it too much or bump it against something the paint will flake off as it is more rigid than the substrate. The rubber paint mentioned will work, not many people keep it though and difficult to apply (for a good finish) without specialist spray equipment. I've seen it in Black and Red oxide colour, was being used to coat large storage tanks and I begged a small qty but it didn't brush on very well.

    If you want to keep it Black, just try the Black trim wax you can buy at most Auto shops, I have rejuvenated many sun bleached rubber parts on classic cars with it. It's cheap, easy to try and if you don't like the result simply remove it with a degreasing agent. I would try this before getting into more complicated and potentially irreversible processes.

    A re-plinth would not be that complicated as an alternative.

    The main thing is have fun with it and make it unique if possible.

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