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Thread: Crown IC 150 Preamp popping noise - source of problem?

  1. #81
    Join Date: Oct 2016

    Location: Bolton, England

    Posts: 613
    I'm Andrew.

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    Resistors and capacitors tend not to fail easily unless they're dissipating enough power to get hot or have lots of voltage across them so they wouldn't be the first thing I'd check. On the other hand, switches and pots do get dirty and can be problematic so I would give them a squirt of lubricating cleaner if you haven't done so already. I've known horrible sounding amps to come back to sounding like new after a simple switch/pot clean-up.
    Worth a try before tackling anything else.

  2. #82
    Join Date: Apr 2017

    Location: maryland

    Posts: 32
    I'm jim.

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    That was the first thing I had done before starting the whole thread. I'll put some more in through that tone defeat swicth again though Guess I'm looking for advice for some spots to touch down on the audio tester to see where the signal might be getting lost (though it never really gets "lost" it still gets through, just isn't being "processed" correctly...

  3. #83
    Join Date: Oct 2012

    Location: NE England

    Posts: 4,371
    I'm Jez.

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    After having had an apology from Marco over misconstrued comments in another thread (thanks Marco), I am once again helping out technically so lets get this mother sorted then Jim!
    It will be helpful if you get that 'scope fired up....
    Arkless Electronics-Engineered to be better. Tel. 01670 530674 (after 1pm)

    Modded Thorens TD150, Audio Technica AT-1005 MkII, Technics EPC-300MC, Arkless Hybrid MC phono stage, Arkless passive pre, Arkless 50WPC Class A SS power amp, (or) Arkless modded Leak Stereo 20, Modded Kef Reference 105/3's
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  4. #84
    Join Date: Apr 2017

    Location: maryland

    Posts: 32
    I'm jim.

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    Glad to hear you're back! I have to start by ordering some leads for the oscilloscope. I do have an audio tester in the meantime

  5. #85
    Join Date: Oct 2016

    Location: Bolton, England

    Posts: 613
    I'm Andrew.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jimkarl View Post
    I have to start by ordering some leads for the oscilloscope.
    For audio work you don't really need anything fancy - you could cobble together almost anything with whatever bits of wire you have available if you have a suitable connector for the scope (BNC?). It would be good enough to get you up and running at least.

  6. #86
    Join Date: Oct 2012

    Location: NE England

    Posts: 4,371
    I'm Jez.

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    Quote Originally Posted by RothwellAudio View Post
    For audio work you don't really need anything fancy - you could cobble together almost anything with whatever bits of wire you have available if you have a suitable connector for the scope (BNC?). It would be good enough to get you up and running at least.
    +1 for basic audio stuff.

    Jim. What scope do you have and what is this "audio tester" of which you speak?
    Arkless Electronics-Engineered to be better. Tel. 01670 530674 (after 1pm)

    Modded Thorens TD150, Audio Technica AT-1005 MkII, Technics EPC-300MC, Arkless Hybrid MC phono stage, Arkless passive pre, Arkless 50WPC Class A SS power amp, (or) Arkless modded Leak Stereo 20, Modded Kef Reference 105/3's
    ReVox PR99, Studer B62, Ferrograph Series 7, Tandberg TCD440, Hitachi FT-5500MkI, also FT-5500MkII
    Digital: Yamaha CDR-HD1500 (Digital Swiss army knife-CD recorder, player, hard drive, DAC and ADC in one), PC files via 24/96 sound card and SPDIF, modded Philips CD850, modded Philips CD104, modded DPA Little Bit DAC. Sennheiser HD580 cans with Arkless Headphone amp.
    Cables- free interconnects that come with CD players, mains leads from B&Q, dead kettles etc, extension leads from Tesco

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