Lovely looking system, very similar to mine TD124, micro 25 and a ST20.
Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
Lovely looking system, very similar to mine TD124, micro 25 and a ST20.
Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
Source: Thorens TD124 Rega RB300, Sumiko bluepoint No2., Cambridge Audio D500 Special Edition CDP, Squeeze box Touch, PC with Trends Audio USB Audio DAC UD-10 Amplification: Croft Micro 25 basic pre, Leak Stereo 20, Trends Audio Class T TA-10, Fisher X100-A Speakers:Impulse H6 Interconnects: Handmade silver and TNT audio CAT5 speaker cables
Thanks Grant,
I'll try the vinegar solution first off (was it 50/50 ?). I read somewhere (ont'interweb) that using an iron with something like kitchen paper (like the old use of iron & brown paper to press trousers) - to lightly heat the surface and draw the grease out was worth a try. But for obvious reasons I didn't think I'd follow that particular advice.
Yours sounds a safer bet.
Location: East Riding of Yorkshire these days
Posts: 4,779
I'm Shaun.
The reliability of the Series 7 was actually appalling with the amplifier lasting less than six months before needing a repair so my experience is that it does have quite an impact on reliability if not sound quality. My experience of ownership of course, that's all.
So the problem was fixed with a better casing?
Cheers, Jeff
Location: East Riding of Yorkshire these days
Posts: 4,779
I'm Shaun.
The problem was caused by cheap tacky switch gear. For those out there who may be interested, it is something that needs to be taken into account when you may be spending fifteen hundred quid or more. Cheap components are always going to lead to the same thing. Even my previous Chinese amplifier lasted longer than the Croft power amp did without needing a repair.
The point I was trying to make is that there is nothing flimsy or poor about the Croft case. It is as solid as need be and the build quality is very good including complete hard-wiring. But you are now raising a separate issue and it sounds like you may have an axe to grind. Premature component failure is unfortunate but can happen with any piece of hi-fi. I suspect your experience may be the exception, and to then generalise from this is unfair. The only problem I've had with my Series 7 since I've owned it over the past five years was a blown fuse and that was me being careless and not due to cheap components or a flimsy case.
Cheers, Jeff
Location: East Riding of Yorkshire these days
Posts: 4,779
I'm Shaun.
As I always do, I speak from experience and there may be folk out there who are taken in by what is said on forums and what is not necessarily true. I do not ever hero worship anything like many others do and I am only interested in fact.
So, what I have said I stand by and unless this forum has recently taken to censorship, I shall continue to express my views based purely upon experience. My experience of Croft was not particularly good. I still maintain though that the sound quality is superb. If the product finish was as good then there would be no competition at all.
Arkless Electronics-Engineered to be better. Tel. 01670 530674 (after 1pm)
Modded Thorens TD150, Audio Technica AT-1005 MkII, Technics EPC-300MC, Arkless Hybrid MC phono stage, Arkless passive pre, Arkless 50WPC Class A SS power amp, (or) Arkless modded Leak Stereo 20, Modded Kef Reference 105/3's
ReVox PR99, Studer B62, Ferrograph Series 7, Tandberg TCD440, Hitachi FT-5500MkI, also FT-5500MkII
Digital: Yamaha CDR-HD1500 (Digital Swiss army knife-CD recorder, player, hard drive, DAC and ADC in one), PC files via 24/96 sound card and SPDIF, modded Philips CD850, modded Philips CD104, modded DPA Little Bit DAC. Sennheiser HD580 cans with Arkless Headphone amp.
Cables- free interconnects that come with CD players, mains leads from B&Q, dead kettles etc, extension leads from Tesco
And how do you think they keep the price down so low? Fancy heavy weight casework and designer components will double the price of a unit without necessarily adding anything to sound quality. The case will in fact definitely do nothing for the sound quality and the importance of component quality on sound quality is vastly exaggerated.
As it happens I have a pre amp waiting in the wings which I talked up a lot here on AOS 6 months or so ago but have temporarily put in abeyance (see my trade area) which is specifically intended to thrash any Croft in every area including build quality and for only about £200 more money. One has been commissioned and so photos etc will be forthcoming in the fairly near future
Arkless Electronics-Engineered to be better. Tel. 01670 530674 (after 1pm)
Modded Thorens TD150, Audio Technica AT-1005 MkII, Technics EPC-300MC, Arkless Hybrid MC phono stage, Arkless passive pre, Arkless 50WPC Class A SS power amp, (or) Arkless modded Leak Stereo 20, Modded Kef Reference 105/3's
ReVox PR99, Studer B62, Ferrograph Series 7, Tandberg TCD440, Hitachi FT-5500MkI, also FT-5500MkII
Digital: Yamaha CDR-HD1500 (Digital Swiss army knife-CD recorder, player, hard drive, DAC and ADC in one), PC files via 24/96 sound card and SPDIF, modded Philips CD850, modded Philips CD104, modded DPA Little Bit DAC. Sennheiser HD580 cans with Arkless Headphone amp.
Cables- free interconnects that come with CD players, mains leads from B&Q, dead kettles etc, extension leads from Tesco
Well, I also speak from experience and the truth! All I was suggesting is that, judging from the absence or lack of negative forum posts (not just here), yours may not be the experience of most Croft users. No one is saying your experience is not valid but so is mine, and I still own two Croft amps. I'm not sure where the hero worship comes in, or the suggestion that lies are being spread about Croft. But I'm glad you still think Croft sounds great.
Cheers, Jeff