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Thread: Are you a tone guy or a details-retrieval guy?

  1. #11
    Join Date: Apr 2015

    Location: Central Virginia

    Posts: 1,736
    I'm Russell.

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    This is a tough question.

    Recently when I got the new Krell, it corrected the tone by an order of magnitude! Nice, warm, full, round! Iron fist in the velvet glove. But, after listening for a time, adjusting the speaker placement, getting the massive bass under control, suddenly now I am hearing all kinds of detail! Hearing things I've never noticed before! So I guess it is possible to help both at once? But replacing an amp is no basic tweak. I moved up about 5 steps at once with the amp. So I guess one may expect both? And what Alan was saying about Class A amps, it certainly true. Eliminating crossover distortion is a major step in the right direction.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  2. #12
    Join Date: Oct 2012

    Location: NE England

    Posts: 4,173
    I'm Jez.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Boyse6748 View Post
    Sorry , pressed the sent to soon.

    Going from above, in my case I've reverted from an independent MC phono stage to a SUT at my detriment. As Alan pointed out, perhaps it's not the SUT that's at fault and maybe it's the Amp.

    I never realised my beloved McIntosh was anything other than perfect..... but how wrong you can be.

    Now looking for a replacement MC phono stage to get things into perspective.

    We live and learn

    Peter.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    You want to try this http://theartofsound.net/forum/showt...MC-phono-stage
    PM if interested. I also do a high end head amp http://theartofsound.net/forum/showt...for-a-customer and review here http://theartofsound.net/forum/showt...mp-Full-Review
    Arkless Electronics-Engineered to be better. Tel. 01670 530674 (after 1pm)

    Modded Thorens TD150, Audio Technica AT-1005 MkII, Technics EPC-300MC, Arkless Hybrid MC phono stage, Arkless passive pre, Arkless 50WPC Class A SS power amp, (or) Arkless modded Leak Stereo 20, Modded Kef Reference 105/3's
    ReVox PR99, Studer B62, Ferrograph Series 7, Tandberg TCD440, Hitachi FT-5500MkI, also FT-5500MkII
    Digital: Yamaha CDR-HD1500 (Digital Swiss army knife-CD recorder, player, hard drive, DAC and ADC in one), PC files via 24/96 sound card and SPDIF, modded Philips CD850, modded Philips CD104, modded DPA Little Bit DAC. Sennheiser HD580 cans with Arkless Headphone amp.
    Cables- free interconnects that come with CD players, mains leads from B&Q, dead kettles etc, extension leads from Tesco

  3. #13
    Join Date: Aug 2009

    Location: Staffordshire, England

    Posts: 37,883
    I'm Martin.

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    Not sure if the class A thing is the key. Some of the best power amps I have heard are not class A. Radford STA15, for e,g

    Although of all the amps I own or have owned the two class A ones are the best. But that is more coincidence I think.
    Current Lash Up:

    TEAC VRDS 701T > Sony TAE1000ESD > Krell KSA50S > JM Labs Focal Electra 926.

  4. #14
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Wrexham, North Wales, UK

    Posts: 110,012
    I'm AudioAl'sArbiterForPISHANTO.

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    Both! And you can have both, if you match your system components well, especially when high-quality valve amps are used, which major on tone and timbre

    But - if I had to only choose one or the other, then it would be tone (and timbre) every time. The detail retrieval vs. tone thing is highlighted best in moving-coil cartridges. Listen to a vintage Ortofon SPU (or Denon 103) and, say, a modern Audio-Technica or Lyra (anything), and you'll fundamentally *get* what the above is about!

    The same happens with speakers when listening to, say, a well-sorted pair of vintage Tannoy DCs, or something with the musicality measured out of it, such as TADs/Magicos.

    Marco.
    Main System

    Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & reg mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat/Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight/Isonoe feet & boots/Ortofon RS-212D/Denon DL-103GL in Denon PCL-300 headshell with Funk Firm Houdini/Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.

    Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp/Denon AU-310 SUT.

    Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.

    CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.

    Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new, by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.

    Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. LDR Stereo Coffee. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.

    Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.

    Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.

    Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.


    Protect your HUMAN RIGHTS and REFUSE ANY *MANDATORY* VACCINE FOR COVID-19!

    Also **SAY NO** to unjust 'vaccine passports' or certificates, which are totally incompatible with a FREE society!!!


  5. #15
    Join Date: Oct 2012

    Location: NE England

    Posts: 4,173
    I'm Jez.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Macca View Post
    Not sure if the class A thing is the key. Some of the best power amps I have heard are not class A. Radford STA15, for e,g

    Although of all the amps I own or have owned the two class A ones are the best. But that is more coincidence I think.
    It will give several Watts in class A.
    Arkless Electronics-Engineered to be better. Tel. 01670 530674 (after 1pm)

    Modded Thorens TD150, Audio Technica AT-1005 MkII, Technics EPC-300MC, Arkless Hybrid MC phono stage, Arkless passive pre, Arkless 50WPC Class A SS power amp, (or) Arkless modded Leak Stereo 20, Modded Kef Reference 105/3's
    ReVox PR99, Studer B62, Ferrograph Series 7, Tandberg TCD440, Hitachi FT-5500MkI, also FT-5500MkII
    Digital: Yamaha CDR-HD1500 (Digital Swiss army knife-CD recorder, player, hard drive, DAC and ADC in one), PC files via 24/96 sound card and SPDIF, modded Philips CD850, modded Philips CD104, modded DPA Little Bit DAC. Sennheiser HD580 cans with Arkless Headphone amp.
    Cables- free interconnects that come with CD players, mains leads from B&Q, dead kettles etc, extension leads from Tesco

  6. #16
    Join Date: May 2010

    Location: Vancouver, Canada

    Posts: 2,166
    I'm Alex.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Marco View Post
    Both! And you can have both, if you match your system components well, especially when high-quality valve amps are used, which major on tone and timbre

    But - if I had to only choose one or the other, then it would be tone (and timbre) every time. The detail retrieval vs. tone thing is highlighted best in moving-coil cartridges.

    Listen to a vintage Ortofon SPU (or Denon 103) and, say, a modern Audio-Technica or Lyra (anything), and you'll fundamentally *get* what the above is about! The same happens with speakers when listening to, say, a well-sorted pair of vintage Tannoy DCs, or some TADs/Magicos.

    Marco.
    My Denon DL-103 was exactly what nudged me to originally ask this question. I've noticed that when I play the same track on Denon DL-103, and then on my digital system, the huge difference that immediately punches me in the face is *tone*! That vintage DL-103 tone is all but absent from the digital playback, but then digital seems to etch, carve in space instruments a bit sharper. So that to me reads as 'pick and choose -- you want that rich silky creamy sweet vintage tone, or you want that ultra high def details retrieval?'

    Luckily, I can have both (but alas not at the same time)
    Don't you just hate it when you cannot detect where the post ends and a signature line begins?

    Alex.

  7. #17
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Wrexham, North Wales, UK

    Posts: 110,012
    I'm AudioAl'sArbiterForPISHANTO.

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    Quote Originally Posted by magiccarpetride View Post
    My Denon DL-103 was exactly what nudged me to originally ask this question.
    Interesting!

    I've noticed that when I play the same track on Denon DL-103, and then on my digital system, the huge difference that immediately punches me in the face is *tone*! That vintage DL-103 tone is all but absent from the digital playback...
    Then. Alex, you need to get yourself a quality vintage CD player (one that features a TDA1541-based DAC), to get that 'tone', and then modify key parts of its circuit with the best modern components, to get the necessary detail retrieval - and with it the bests of both worlds!

    Then 'say hello' to what I hear in my system everyday.....

    Marco.
    Main System

    Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & reg mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat/Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight/Isonoe feet & boots/Ortofon RS-212D/Denon DL-103GL in Denon PCL-300 headshell with Funk Firm Houdini/Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.

    Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp/Denon AU-310 SUT.

    Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.

    CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.

    Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new, by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.

    Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. LDR Stereo Coffee. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.

    Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.

    Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.

    Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.


    Protect your HUMAN RIGHTS and REFUSE ANY *MANDATORY* VACCINE FOR COVID-19!

    Also **SAY NO** to unjust 'vaccine passports' or certificates, which are totally incompatible with a FREE society!!!


  8. #18
    Join Date: May 2010

    Location: Vancouver, Canada

    Posts: 2,166
    I'm Alex.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Marco View Post
    Interesting!



    Then. Alex, you need to get yourself a quality vintage CD player (one that features a TDA1541-based DAC), to get that 'tone', and then modify key parts of its circuit with the best modern components, to get the necessary detail retrieval - and with it the bests of both worlds!

    Then 'say hello' to what I hear in my system everyday.....

    Marco.
    So that means that the most perfect listening experience is digital.
    Don't you just hate it when you cannot detect where the post ends and a signature line begins?

    Alex.

  9. #19
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Wrexham, North Wales, UK

    Posts: 110,012
    I'm AudioAl'sArbiterForPISHANTO.

    Default

    Nah - as usual it's not that simple. In reality, there is no 'perfect' anything in hi-fi - it's all about choosing the compromises you can live with the most, and ultimately what pleases YOUR ears

    Marco.
    Main System

    Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & reg mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat/Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight/Isonoe feet & boots/Ortofon RS-212D/Denon DL-103GL in Denon PCL-300 headshell with Funk Firm Houdini/Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.

    Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp/Denon AU-310 SUT.

    Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.

    CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.

    Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new, by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.

    Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. LDR Stereo Coffee. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.

    Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.

    Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.

    Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.


    Protect your HUMAN RIGHTS and REFUSE ANY *MANDATORY* VACCINE FOR COVID-19!

    Also **SAY NO** to unjust 'vaccine passports' or certificates, which are totally incompatible with a FREE society!!!


  10. #20
    Join Date: Nov 2010

    Location: Sheffield/Peak District. UK

    Posts: 574
    I'm Richard.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Marco View Post
    Nah - as usual it's not that simple. In reality, there is no 'perfect' anything in hi-fi - it's all about choosing the compromises you can live with the most, and ultimately what pleases YOUR ears

    Marco.
    Wise words!

    R.

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