+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 19

Thread: Some advice please

  1. #1
    Join Date: Mar 2017

    Location: Bristol

    Posts: 11
    I'm Ian.

    Default Some advice please

    Hello

    I am hoping i can get some advice please. I have my 2 1210's indoors but i have a 3rd that has been in a shed at bottom of garden for quite a few years and it is in quite a poor state. I have been reading up and there are quite a lot of tutorials on you tube and I think i could rebuild it.

    Could you please let me know if it is worth it and would it cost too much?. If not then please could you point me in the right direction, for example where to get good spares.

    I do plan on this taking a while on this so i am not in a rush and i am looking forward to building a deck myself.

    Thank you for any reply
    Ian

  2. #2
    Join Date: Sep 2014

    Location: brighton uk.

    Posts: 2,132
    I'm jamie.

    Default

    pics please,1st thing to do is get in in the warm and out of the shed.
    My System/ Yamaha NS1000M,Mordaunt Short Signifer,Monitor Audio R952 MD,Pioneer PLC-1700, DD,TT, Townsend Elite rock 2,,Alphason HR-100S-MCS,Ortofon 2M BLACK ,Sony 700ES Amp,Sony X555ES CD Player, Nakamichi ca5 pre amp ,

  3. #3
    Join Date: Mar 2017

    Location: Bristol

    Posts: 11
    I'm Ian.

    Default

    Thanks for replying Jamie. I have moved it indoors and took it apart but yes i will definitely gets some pics and see what you think.

  4. #4
    Join Date: Aug 2009

    Location: Staffordshire, England

    Posts: 16,585
    I'm Martin.

    Default

    Value of a good one is (at the low end) about 300 these days, you might want to take that into consideration when evaluating the cost of a rebuild. Like Jamie says depends on how bad it has gone. They are very well made things so it will take a lot to kill one completely.
    Martin



    Current Lash Up:

    Technics SL1200 with Sumiko h/s & Nagaoka MP50 * Firebottle valve MM phono stage * Parasound CDPi1000 * NVA P90SA passive pre / Krell KSA50S Power amp * JM Lab Electra 926 loudspeakers *



    "I hate to advocate drugs, alcohol, violence, or insanity to anyone, but they've always worked for me." - Hunter S Thompson

  5. #5
    Join Date: Mar 2017

    Location: Bristol

    Posts: 11
    I'm Ian.

    Default

    Its not letting me post many but you can see not too bad from what can upload. I know will need quite a bit done
    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. #6
    Join Date: Apr 2012

    Location: Southall, West London

    Posts: 25,476
    I'm Geoff.

    Default

    You can post more and better photos if you use an image hosting site.

    The Technics is certainly restorable. I'd concentrate on getting it working properly before getting involved in the cosmetics though.
    Mr. Tact!

    Main system: MMs/ADCs/Low output MC's/One rare Japanese SUT/One scarce British phono stage/various tonearms/hefty Japanese DD TT and hefty Japanese BD TT and small British BD TT. 4 CD players/2 jitter buster/2 DACs/Valve buffer. TVC stepped attenuator or valve pre-amp or solid state pre-amp. Current dumping power-amp or either of two Class A SS power-amp or Class A EL34 valve monos or big Japanese (part Class A) integrated. Big dual concentric speakers/Smaller dual concentric speakers/Two way British compacts and full range speakers, amongst others. And too much more to list!

  7. #7
    Join Date: Mar 2017

    Location: Bristol

    Posts: 11
    I'm Ian.

    Default

    Yes i guess my main thing to do first is make sure the main circuit board is still working. Any advice on how to do this?

  8. #8
    Join Date: Oct 2012

    Location: The Black Country

    Posts: 3,432
    I'm Alan.

    Default

    Surface corrosion as would be expected by the look of things. A visual inspection is the first thing to do.

    Release the pcb mounting screws and see if you can see/get to the underside. Look closely for any corrosion of the copper tracks, most pcbs have a resist layer on the tracks to protect them.

    If there is any verdigris then use a stiff brush, an old tooth brush will do, to remove it. Look closely at the soldered joints for 'dry joints', these usually appear dull or you can see a feint crack around the component lead.

    Likelihood is everything will be OK

  9. #9
    Join Date: Mar 2017

    Location: Bristol

    Posts: 11
    I'm Ian.

    Default

    Thank you Alan that's brilliant news i shall give that a go and give an update

  10. #10
    Join Date: Mar 2016

    Location: Brighton, UK.

    Posts: 108
    I'm Mike.

    Default

    If you've already got 2, you might as well chuck this one, or flog it on fleabay for 50? OR you could spend 2000 on upgrades, then buy a 2000 arm, and its the deck of your dreams, risen from the dead!

+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast



 

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •