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Thread: Some advice please

  1. #11
    Join Date: Apr 2015

    Location: Central Virginia

    Posts: 160
    I'm Russell.

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    Having a few good ones to refer to can be helpful. A Schematic would be good if you have to repair the electronics. Once you've cleaned the board, spray it down with a quality circuit cleaner, outside so you don't fumigate yourself. And re-solder any suspicious joints, or all of them if they all look cloudy. Old corroded solder points can actually cause resistance, which gets hot and also changes the value of the circuits. Any suspicious looking components, you can un-solder one leg and lift it to check its value with a meter. If it does not have a value written on it, that's when a schematic comes in handy. Any swollen caps must be replaced. Once you've got the circuit looking proper, be sure your motor is in order. Make sure all bearings are free and clean, a drop of fine machine oil if need be. Should be an interesting project!

    If you can get all parts off of the plinth, then you can see about cleaning that up. If it's pitted as it appears to be, rub it down with steel wool, in the direction of the grain. And you can get some anodizing die and wipe it on evenly. (If it is aluminum and not plastic) Possibly even cleaning the raised areas with an emery stick. Or better yet, send it out for powder coating? Or paint it with an air brush? Opportunities to customize here. Looks like a fun project!


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  2. #12
    Join Date: Apr 2015

    Location: Central Virginia

    Posts: 160
    I'm Russell.

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    And I don't know what your soldering skills are, but using a cheap iron with a large tip can cause more damage than good. These days you can buy a soldering station with temp control for affordable prices, use a fine tip on your iron. And keep your tip temp down to 850 F. Use a real thin rosin solder, 0.031" or .8mm, and do not over heat any one spot. Practice on something that doesn't matter if you have to. There is a lot of information on the web about soldering if you need it, even I learned something reading up on a few sites, and I used to solder for a living. If you resolder all joints, use circuit cleaner to remove any excess flux and it will look most professional. touch solder to each joint you resolder to wet the tip, but only add a tiny amount to the joint unless it falls down the hole and you have to fill it up, many cold joints will do this. Have a solder sucker on hand if you get too much in one spot. It's not as hard as it sounds, and developing good soldering skills is a handy thing to have. And I apologize in advance if you already know all this. You may clean the board and it look fine and no soldering will be needed. If so, I apologize again for wasting all of this digital paper.


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  3. #13
    Join Date: Mar 2017

    Location: Bristol

    Posts: 11
    I'm Ian.

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    Hi Russell.

    Thank you for your advice. I have done some Soldering before but your info above is just what I needed and I have a iron on order but i didnt know things like thin rosin and that so thank you. I shall be buying all the things you mention and give it a go. I do intend to spend some time on it so im not in a rush.

    I wasnt sure if the the top plate part (is that what you call the plinth?) was too far gone but i will try what you suggest..

    You definitely have not wasted digital paper.

  4. #14
    Join Date: Mar 2017

    Location: Bristol

    Posts: 11
    I'm Ian.

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    Hi mike

    Yeah im giving myself a project on this one, going to take my time and make it nice but im sure i will be on here quite a bit getting advice.

    Haha, dont know about a 2000 arm but nearly that, maybe

  5. #15
    Join Date: Apr 2015

    Location: Central Virginia

    Posts: 160
    I'm Russell.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jackdog View Post
    Hi Russell.

    Thank you for your advice. I have done some Soldering before but your info above is just what I needed and I have a iron on order but i didnt know things like thin rosin and that so thank you. I shall be buying all the things you mention and give it a go. I do intend to spend some time on it so im not in a rush.

    I wasnt sure if the the top plate part (is that what you call the plinth?) was too far gone but i will try what you suggest..

    You definitely have not wasted digital paper.
    Glad to help! And from what I see these 'tables selling for, it is definitely a worthwhile project! And yes Solder is a deep subject. So many kinds, and sizes. If I can help in any way just ask. Here's an idea! Cover the plinth with gold leaf! And cover with clear paint! (Im only half way kidding) ;-)


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  6. #16
    Join Date: Mar 2014

    Location: KY - Scotland

    Posts: 1,623
    I'm Mike.

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    Looks like scrap to me
    Technics 1210 Mk 5 modded with Mike New Bearing, Paul Hynes SR7-EHD PSU, Paul Hynes Regulators, Sounddamped Steel Isoplatmat, Isonoe Feet, Magna Audio Ebony armboard, Mission 774 Arm fitted with Zyx R100H - TQ Claymore Amplifier, Firebottle Vivant Phono Stage, PMC Twenty .21 Speakers, Partington Dreadnought Stands, Sparky SBC fitted with Piano 2.1 Dac/Kali Reclocker - Fiio X3 DAP - Sennheiser HD650 Headphones

  7. #17
    Join Date: Apr 2012

    Location: Southall, West London

    Posts: 23,308
    I'm Geoff.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mikeyb View Post
    Looks like scrap to me
    At the moment maybe, but I bet it can be resurrected. Definitely worth a bash!
    Mr. Tact!

    Main system: MMs/ADCs/Low output MC's/One rare Japanese SUT/One scarce British phono stage/various tonearms/hefty Japanese DD TT and hefty Japanese BD TT and small British BD TT. 4 CD players/2 jitter buster/2 DACs/Valve buffer. TVC stepped attenuator or valve pre-amp or solid state pre-amp. Current dumping power-amp or either of two Class A SS power-amp or Class A EL34 valve monos or big Japanese (part Class A) integrated. Big dual concentric speakers/Smaller dual concentric speakers/Two way British compacts and full range speakers, amongst others. And too much more to list!

  8. #18
    Join Date: Mar 2014

    Location: KY - Scotland

    Posts: 1,623
    I'm Mike.

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    Quote Originally Posted by walpurgis View Post
    At the moment maybe, but I bet it can be resurrected. Definitely worth a bash!
    Yip great idea 😀
    Technics 1210 Mk 5 modded with Mike New Bearing, Paul Hynes SR7-EHD PSU, Paul Hynes Regulators, Sounddamped Steel Isoplatmat, Isonoe Feet, Magna Audio Ebony armboard, Mission 774 Arm fitted with Zyx R100H - TQ Claymore Amplifier, Firebottle Vivant Phono Stage, PMC Twenty .21 Speakers, Partington Dreadnought Stands, Sparky SBC fitted with Piano 2.1 Dac/Kali Reclocker - Fiio X3 DAP - Sennheiser HD650 Headphones

  9. #19
    Join Date: Mar 2017

    Location: Bristol

    Posts: 11
    I'm Ian.

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    Quote Originally Posted by walpurgis View Post
    At the moment maybe, but I bet it can be resurrected. Definitely worth a bash!
    Cheers , I agree but thanks mikeyb too

    Looking at what you both have listed, im inspired.

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