I have about 1.5m of cabling and it works fine but shorter is definitely better in my experience. Certainly more than 3m starts to have a detrimental effect in my system
Location: Preston
Posts: 197
I'm Paul.
I have about 1.5m of cabling and it works fine but shorter is definitely better in my experience. Certainly more than 3m starts to have a detrimental effect in my system
SBT/Chromecast/TEAC T1 into TEAC D-T1 DAC or olde-worlde Rega Planar 2 controlled by Rotel RC850 into HH S500D or DACT Passive Pre into Mullard 5-20 monos. Then into Tannoy Cheviots and a Wharfdale sub. All connected by colourful cables.
People are used to amps where full output is only half way round the dial and at a quarter the way round it is too loud for any normal room and speakers. Deliberate of course so rubes are fooled into thinking the amp must be really powerful and have loads in reserve.
Current Lash Up:
TEAC VRDS 701T > Sony TAE1000ESD > Krell KSA50S > JM Labs Focal Electra 926.
Yes, I have a set of them myself left over from when I used active pre-amps CD player always too much output, or so I thought in my naivety. Get rid of the pointless extra gain stage, problem solved and you can hear what the player is actually doing without all the glare you thought was just the crapness of 'digital'.
Current Lash Up:
TEAC VRDS 701T > Sony TAE1000ESD > Krell KSA50S > JM Labs Focal Electra 926.
Location: Scotland
Posts: 185
I'm Michael.
Get yourself a Schiit Freya and you can have passive, JFet buffer or Tube Gain all in the same box with full remote control.
https://schiit.eu.com/preamps/Schiit-Freya
You can then see which suits your system the best. In my system active tube is best because I use insensitive power amps. My Monarchy Audio SM70Pro needs 1 volt input for full output and my SDS470C class D needs 2 volts. The JFET buffer sounds very good with the Monarchy's and some might prefer this to the active stage.
Indeed all sorts of strange ideas abound! A customer just a few days ago wanted the output of a pre increasing as he thought the main amp was "being worked harder" by having the volume control at a higher setting!
Generally 4M or so of coax is fine with a 50K pot or attenuator and even 10M would be fine with a 10K pot
Arkless Electronics-Engineered to be better. Tel. 01670 530674 (after 1pm)
Modded Thorens TD150, Audio Technica AT-1005 MkII, Technics EPC-300MC, Arkless Hybrid MC phono stage, Arkless passive pre, Arkless 50WPC Class A SS power amp, (or) Arkless modded Leak Stereo 20, Modded Kef Reference 105/3's
ReVox PR99, Studer B62, Ferrograph Series 7, Tandberg TCD440, Hitachi FT-5500MkI, also FT-5500MkII
Digital: Yamaha CDR-HD1500 (Digital Swiss army knife-CD recorder, player, hard drive, DAC and ADC in one), PC files via 24/96 sound card and SPDIF, modded Philips CD850, modded Philips CD104, modded DPA Little Bit DAC. Sennheiser HD580 cans with Arkless Headphone amp.
Cables- free interconnects that come with CD players, mains leads from B&Q, dead kettles etc, extension leads from Tesco
I just bought one of these for a giggle. Passive pre-amp with tone controls. I think I can just about stretch to the expense.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2915687233...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Apparently there is a significant insertion loss and it may well sound awful. Just a bit of fun!
It is impossible for anything digital to sound analogue, because it isn't analogue!
Location: yorkshire
Posts: 61
I'm terry.
Location: Scotland
Posts: 185
I'm Michael.
There's also the Saga at much less. It deos without balanced and tube gain but still has remote control. Never used one myself but it had a very positive review in this month's HIFI World. https://schiit.eu.com/preamps/Schiit-Freya
Location: Scotland
Posts: 185
I'm Michael.
Oh schiit!! Try this link https://schiit.eu.com/preamps/Saga