+ Reply to Thread
Page 4 of 6 FirstFirst ... 23456 LastLast
Results 31 to 40 of 51

Thread: My New Krell

  1. #31
    Join Date: Apr 2015

    Location: Central Virginia

    Posts: 433
    I'm Russell.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Rush2112 View Post
    PS my cables are Transparent Musicwave Plus Bi-Wire and all my interconnects are DPA Black Slink and I run phono and cd in full balanced mode as is pretty to power.

    Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
    Sounds like a top notch system! I'm sure the FPB 200 is near the 300 under most loads. If not for the size of my speakers, I would have been happy with a 200 watt amp. But that was my goal from the start, to find an amp that could do justice to these monster Legacy Focus 20/20's.

    I'm running balanced cables from preamp to amp, but my phono and CD are still single ended to the pre. And all my cables are Harmonic Technologies, Precision, and Truth Link. And a pair of Legacy speaker cables that came with the speakers. So I've still got some upgrading to do to catch up to where you are! I'm shopping around for some nice balanced cables, and have been re-terminating my speaker cables to get the most out of what I've got. But I don't want to get too far ahead of myself until I choose a preamp. And the Harmonic Tech cables I've got are no slouches, I was highly pleased when I first introduced them into my system before I got this amp. Always good to meet another member of the Krell Owners Club!


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  2. #32
    Join Date: Mar 2010

    Location: Sheffield

    Posts: 2,356
    I'm Simon.

    Default

    The fbp series aren't class a to their rated limit all the time, they have a series of stepped bias positions that they select from according to input signal and thermal conditions. They're better thought of as just enough class a to play the signal when its needed. Still, theyre more class a than previous krell offerings that were mostly high ab.

    That's a mighty fine amp.
    Kuzma Stabi/S 12", (LP12-bastard) AC, USB controlled bi-phase Class A regenerator psu. Benz LP, Paradise (phonostage). MB-Pro, Mdac, Muse 200, Yamaha NS1000m

  3. #33
    Join Date: Apr 2015

    Location: Central Virginia

    Posts: 433
    I'm Russell.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by sq225917 View Post
    The fbp series aren't class a to their rated limit all the time, they have a series of stepped bias positions that they select from according to input signal and thermal conditions. They're better thought of as just enough class a to play the signal when its needed. Still, theyre more class a than previous krell offerings that were mostly high ab.

    That's a mighty fine amp.
    I know she runs hot! I literally heated my room with it in the colder months! So it's definitely biased pretty high to be giving off 5,000BTU. It's hot even if music is not playing. Sure seems like a class A for the most part. It is an older model, and I do know that later models are designed to be more economical. But all that aside, it is above everything else I've owned. Whatever it's doing, it's doing it right!


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  4. #34
    Join Date: Aug 2009

    Location: Staffordshire, England

    Posts: 16,585
    I'm Martin.

    Default

    True class A will run hotter when idling, playing music through them actually cools them down.
    Martin



    Current Lash Up:

    Technics SL1200 with Sumiko h/s & Nagaoka MP50 * Firebottle valve MM phono stage * Parasound CDPi1000 * NVA P90SA passive pre / Krell KSA50S Power amp * JM Lab Electra 926 loudspeakers *



    "I hate to advocate drugs, alcohol, violence, or insanity to anyone, but they've always worked for me." - Hunter S Thompson

  5. #35
    Join Date: Oct 2012

    Location: NE England

    Posts: 4,028
    I'm Jez.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Macca View Post
    True class A will run hotter when idling, playing music through them actually cools them down.
    Running hot at idle is no guarantee that an amp is "pure" class A whatsoever. Most "class A amps" are not class A to full output as it requires such ridiculous effort and spending of money in order to keep it cool enough! Many will remember the Musical Fidelity A370 which was thought of as class A by many... although it was rated at 185WPC (and gave about 210WPC in practice), those LP record sized heatsinks, one per channel, were only enough for 18WPC to be in class A!

    Generally I'd be suspicious of claims of over 20WPC or so of class A power, especially if there is no cooling fan. A cooling fan works miracles in getting rid of heat and a heatsink capable of say 20 W class A without a fan could be good for 50-60W with a fan! The problem here of course is that some people are averse to the idea of a fan due to the noise from it, but, I've found it possible to use a slow running fan in virtual silence... Due both to this, the music drowning out any fan noise and the prevalence of cooling fans in PC's and related equipment these days anyway, I don't see a fan as a big issue personally.

    There are many more advantages to class A than merely getting rid of crossover distortion BTW! Pretty much everything measurable gets much better when class A is used!! The only down sides are it will be big, it will be heavy, it will be very expensive and it will use loads of electricity... If there is any interest I may come back to these things in more detail.... Technical stuff usually kills a thread though!
    Arkless Electronics-Engineered to be better. Tel. 01670 530674 (after 1pm)

    Modded Thorens TD150, Audio Technica AT-1005 MkII, Technics EPC-300MC, Arkless Hybrid MC phono stage, Arkless passive pre, Arkless 50WPC Class A SS power amp, (or) Arkless modded Leak Stereo 20, Modded Kef Reference 105/3's
    ReVox PR99, Studer B62, Ferrograph Series 7, Tandberg TCD440, Hitachi FT-5500MkI, also FT-5500MkII
    Digital: Yamaha CDR-HD1500 (Digital Swiss army knife-CD recorder, player, hard drive, DAC and ADC in one), PC files via 24/96 sound card and SPDIF, modded Philips CD850, modded Philips CD104, modded DPA Little Bit DAC. Sennheiser HD580 cans with Arkless Headphone amp.
    Cables- free interconnects that come with CD players, mains leads from B&Q, dead kettles etc, extension leads from Tesco

  6. #36
    Join Date: Dec 2015

    Location: vancouver

    Posts: 642
    I'm danilo.

    Default

    Not All A amps are created equal.. You should know that ...
    Some designers are Giants, while others shouldn't be allowed near Solder.
    Middle ground is populated by plodders.. which imo may be even worse.

    Need Big Power in an A ? Buy a Pass Labs unit.. Big bux though. Free lunches are Rare.
    IF one can live with 25 w or less a Firstwatt does the job.
    Better than Most Any other amp product.
    At least any that I've heard or owned.

    Some Firstwatts run surprisingly Cool, while others run warmer. Differing topologies is the why.
    Mine for example has not yet exceeded 40C and that's at an almost 2 a bias. Yeah it does have serious heatsinks tho
    Unlikely, after ~50 years of sporadic seeking, that I will be replacing it.

    Lotsa myths in Audio land. Trust None of them.. until proven otherwise

  7. #37
    Join Date: Dec 2015

    Location: vancouver

    Posts: 642
    I'm danilo.

    Default

    Not All A amps are created equal.. You should know that ...
    Some designers are Giants, while others shouldn't be allowed near Solder.

    Need Big Power in an A ? Buy a Pass Labs unit.. Big bux though. Free lunches are Rare.
    IF one can live with 25 w or less a Firstwatt does the job.
    Better than Most Any other amp product.
    At least any that I've heard or owned.

    Some Firstwatts run surprisingly Cool, while others run warmer. Differing topologies is the why.
    Mine for example has not yet exceeded 40C and that's at an almost 2 a bias.
    Unlikely, after ~50 years of sporadic seeking, that I will be replacing it.

    Lotsa myths in Audio land. Trust None of them.. until proven otherwise

  8. #38
    Join Date: Oct 2012

    Location: NE England

    Posts: 4,028
    I'm Jez.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by danilo View Post
    Not All A amps are created equal.. You should know that ...
    Some designers are Giants, while others shouldn't be allowed near Solder.

    Need Big Power in an A ? Buy a Pass Labs unit.. Big bux though. Free lunches are Rare.
    IF one can live with 25 w or less a Firstwatt does the job.
    Better than Most Any other amp product.
    At least any that I've heard or owned.

    Some Firstwatts run surprisingly Cool, while others run warmer. Differing topologies is the why.
    Mine for example has not yet exceeded 40C and that's at an almost 2 a bias.
    Unlikely, after ~50 years of sporadic seeking, that I will be replacing it.

    Lotsa myths in Audio land. Trust None of them.. until proven otherwise
    So I see....
    Arkless Electronics-Engineered to be better. Tel. 01670 530674 (after 1pm)

    Modded Thorens TD150, Audio Technica AT-1005 MkII, Technics EPC-300MC, Arkless Hybrid MC phono stage, Arkless passive pre, Arkless 50WPC Class A SS power amp, (or) Arkless modded Leak Stereo 20, Modded Kef Reference 105/3's
    ReVox PR99, Studer B62, Ferrograph Series 7, Tandberg TCD440, Hitachi FT-5500MkI, also FT-5500MkII
    Digital: Yamaha CDR-HD1500 (Digital Swiss army knife-CD recorder, player, hard drive, DAC and ADC in one), PC files via 24/96 sound card and SPDIF, modded Philips CD850, modded Philips CD104, modded DPA Little Bit DAC. Sennheiser HD580 cans with Arkless Headphone amp.
    Cables- free interconnects that come with CD players, mains leads from B&Q, dead kettles etc, extension leads from Tesco

  9. #39
    Join Date: Aug 2009

    Location: Staffordshire, England

    Posts: 16,585
    I'm Martin.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Macca View Post
    True class A will run hotter when idling, playing music through them actually cools them down.
    So is this right then or what?

    BTW I never said running hot was proof of class A - I mean it could just be faulty or crap.
    Martin



    Current Lash Up:

    Technics SL1200 with Sumiko h/s & Nagaoka MP50 * Firebottle valve MM phono stage * Parasound CDPi1000 * NVA P90SA passive pre / Krell KSA50S Power amp * JM Lab Electra 926 loudspeakers *



    "I hate to advocate drugs, alcohol, violence, or insanity to anyone, but they've always worked for me." - Hunter S Thompson

  10. #40
    Join Date: Oct 2012

    Location: NE England

    Posts: 4,028
    I'm Jez.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Macca View Post
    So is this right then or what?

    BTW I never said running hot was proof of class A - I mean it could just be faulty or crap.
    It is correct yes. Power dissipation shifts from the output devices to the load as the output goes up. At full output the class A amp may run about a third cooler than at idle. For a conventional class B (A/B really...another story) amp it runs at it's hottest at around 1/3 of max output. For the hard of thinking, that does not mean when the vol controls at 3.3!! (or 3.66 either if you have an ex Spinal Tap amp!)
    Arkless Electronics-Engineered to be better. Tel. 01670 530674 (after 1pm)

    Modded Thorens TD150, Audio Technica AT-1005 MkII, Technics EPC-300MC, Arkless Hybrid MC phono stage, Arkless passive pre, Arkless 50WPC Class A SS power amp, (or) Arkless modded Leak Stereo 20, Modded Kef Reference 105/3's
    ReVox PR99, Studer B62, Ferrograph Series 7, Tandberg TCD440, Hitachi FT-5500MkI, also FT-5500MkII
    Digital: Yamaha CDR-HD1500 (Digital Swiss army knife-CD recorder, player, hard drive, DAC and ADC in one), PC files via 24/96 sound card and SPDIF, modded Philips CD850, modded Philips CD104, modded DPA Little Bit DAC. Sennheiser HD580 cans with Arkless Headphone amp.
    Cables- free interconnects that come with CD players, mains leads from B&Q, dead kettles etc, extension leads from Tesco

+ Reply to Thread
Page 4 of 6 FirstFirst ... 23456 LastLast



 

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •