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Thread: Broken driver

  1. #31
    Bigman80 Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by nthall View Post
    Looking good.
    Thanks mate, a couple of layers of wax to bring out the finish and thats one done !

    Looks like it will be worth it though.

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  2. #32
    Bigman80 Guest

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    Well, ive spent all night and cant decide which finish I prefer. Wax, shellac or varnish. Ive tried two so ill leave the last,varnish, to dry and have a look tomorrow. Knackered now !

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  3. #33
    Join Date: Jan 2017

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    I'm Nathan.

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    They all usually work.

  4. #34
    Join Date: Apr 2015

    Location: Central Virginia

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    I'm Russell.

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    A wonderful job! And those tweeters look great! New ones are about $4, but still you did a professional job! Be sure to buy the midrange with the enclosed rear, like the original, or the backwave from the woofer will blow it out! Here in the states I shop at Parts-Express, replacement speakers all prices, sealed midranges like those are very affordable.


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  5. #35
    Bigman80 Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by alphaGT View Post
    A wonderful job! And those tweeters look great! New ones are about $4, but still you did a professional job! Be sure to buy the midrange with the enclosed rear, like the original, or the backwave from the woofer will blow it out! Here in the states I shop at Parts-Express, replacement speakers all prices, sealed midranges like those are very affordable.


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    Here in the UK they are rare as rocking horse shit lol. It has the enclosure and I also have the one off the original. Should be good.

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  6. #36
    Join Date: Apr 2012

    Location: N E Kent

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    I'm Geoff.

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    If you're going to experiment with shellac and varnish (water based or spirit based), you'll need to remove any wax first. A rub down with meths should do the trick.

    I generally use a water based satin varnish. Either clear or of an appropriate shade. Then once dry, I wax the finish. This gives a subtle and classy professional look.

    The water based satin varnishes are very easy to get a good finish on, just using a lint free cloth pad, applying evenly, but sparingly.


    Difficult to tell much from a photo I know, but this is the finish on one of my Tannoys using this method.

    It is impossible for anything digital to sound analogue, because it isn't analogue!

  7. #37
    Bigman80 Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by walpurgis View Post
    If you're going to experiment with shellac and varnish (water based or spirit based), you'll need to remove any wax first. A rub down with meths should do the trick.

    I generally use a water based satin varnish. Either clear or of an appropriate shade. Then once dry, I wax the finish. This gives a subtle and classy professional look.

    The water based satin varnishes are very easy to get a good finish on, just using a lint free cloth pad, applying evenly, but sparingly.


    Difficult to tell much from a photo I know, but this is the finish on one of my Tannoys using this method.

    I like that look geoff. I left one of the sides with just danish oil on and this morning, after about 10 hours of drying it looks very good. So I shall re sand all sides and go with the danish oil. That satin varnish looks very tempting though lol

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  8. #38
    Bigman80 Guest

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    Both cabs sanded and one coat of Danish oil applied.



    Next coat to be done in the morning.

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  9. #39
    Join Date: Sep 2014

    Location: brighton uk.

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    I'm jamie.

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    not sure it applies to danish oil but linseed oiled rags can combust after you have used them.
    looking good olly or should that be oily lol
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  10. #40
    Bigman80 Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by jamie123 View Post
    not sure it applies to danish oil but linseed oiled rags can combust after you have used them.
    looking good olly or should that be oily lol
    Lmao, oily! Haha. Yes I read that too. Its laid out on a non combustible material just in case lol.

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