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Thread: Broken driver

  1. #21
    Join Date: Apr 2012

    Location: Southall, West London

    Posts: 23,360
    I'm Geoff.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Beobloke View Post
    To the OP - just a small point. Your pictures show you testing the drivers with your meter on the diode test setting - you'll get better results on the Ohms measurement range.
    He He. True. I didn't spot that.
    Mr. Tact!

    Main system: MMs/ADCs/Low output MC's/One rare Japanese SUT/One scarce British phono stage/various tonearms/hefty Japanese DD TT and hefty Japanese BD TT and small British BD TT. 4 CD players/2 jitter buster/2 DACs/Valve buffer. TVC stepped attenuator or valve pre-amp or solid state pre-amp. Current dumping power-amp or either of two Class A SS power-amp or Class A EL34 valve monos or big Japanese (part Class A) integrated. Big dual concentric speakers/Smaller dual concentric speakers/Two way British compacts and full range speakers, amongst others. And too much more to list!

  2. #22
    Join Date: Nov 2015

    Location: Wolverhampton

    Posts: 1,779
    I'm Oliver.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Beobloke View Post
    To the OP - just a small point. Your pictures show you testing the drivers with your meter on the diode test setting - you'll get better results on the Ohms measurement range.
    I have no idea what that means. I was just seeing if it was an open or closed circuit. Thats as far as my knowledge goes lol.

    Sent from my EVA-L09 using Tapatalk
    Mission 774 OG Tonearm > Toshiba SR 370 Turntable > ZYX R50 Bloom cartridge > Firebottle OTP Phono Stage > Firebottle Monoblocks > Fisual Hollywood Speaker Cables > Pioneer CS-77A Speakers

  3. #23
    Join Date: Nov 2015

    Location: Wolverhampton

    Posts: 1,779
    I'm Oliver.

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    Quote Originally Posted by walpurgis View Post
    Looks that way.

    Bet you wish you'd never started!
    Im enjoying it actually, gonna put some danish oil on the cabs after a bit of filling and sanding. Should look ok.

    The old driver now has a hole in the dust cap where we tried to get to the wire so not sure its worth repairing Geoff

    Sent from my EVA-L09 using Tapatalk
    Mission 774 OG Tonearm > Toshiba SR 370 Turntable > ZYX R50 Bloom cartridge > Firebottle OTP Phono Stage > Firebottle Monoblocks > Fisual Hollywood Speaker Cables > Pioneer CS-77A Speakers

  4. #24
    Join Date: Jan 2017

    Location: Kansas City, Missouri

    Posts: 590
    I'm Nathan.

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    Dust caps are easy to replace.

  5. #25
    Join Date: Apr 2008

    Location: Warrington

    Posts: 2,194
    I'm Neil.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bigman80 View Post
    Im enjoying it actually, gonna put some danish oil on the cabs after a bit of filling and sanding. Should look ok.

    The old driver now has a hole in the dust cap where we tried to get to the wire so not sure its worth repairing Geoff

    Sent from my EVA-L09 using Tapatalk
    Drop of PVA will sort that.
    Mana Acoustics Racks >> Custom Silent Media Server >> Halide Bridge USB (with AQVOX USB power) >> Pedja Rogic's Audial Model S DAC + Pioneer PL-71 turntable / Vista Audio phono-1 mk II / Denon PCL-5 headshell / Reson Reca >> LFD DLS >> LFD PA2M (SE) >> Royd RR3s.

  6. #26
    Join Date: Apr 2012

    Location: Southall, West London

    Posts: 23,360
    I'm Geoff.

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    Quote Originally Posted by nthall View Post
    Dust caps are easy to replace.
    Not in diahorrea brown they're not!
    Mr. Tact!

    Main system: MMs/ADCs/Low output MC's/One rare Japanese SUT/One scarce British phono stage/various tonearms/hefty Japanese DD TT and hefty Japanese BD TT and small British BD TT. 4 CD players/2 jitter buster/2 DACs/Valve buffer. TVC stepped attenuator or valve pre-amp or solid state pre-amp. Current dumping power-amp or either of two Class A SS power-amp or Class A EL34 valve monos or big Japanese (part Class A) integrated. Big dual concentric speakers/Smaller dual concentric speakers/Two way British compacts and full range speakers, amongst others. And too much more to list!

  7. #27
    Join Date: Jan 2017

    Location: Kansas City, Missouri

    Posts: 590
    I'm Nathan.

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    Quote Originally Posted by walpurgis View Post
    Not in diahorrea brown they're not!
    They look better in copper anyway. I'm one of the weirdos that leaves the grills on my speakers.

  8. #28
    Join Date: Nov 2015

    Location: Wolverhampton

    Posts: 1,779
    I'm Oliver.

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    So, I decided to rub the cabs down and apply some danish oil.

    Done one coat on one cab so far. There were a two joins that looked like they had been wet at some point and had split. Ive repaired these and added some wood gripfill. Slightly the wrong shade but as they are at the bottom they wont be seen.



    Sanded everything down by hand and managed to remove a few blemishes too.



    Time to oil

    Looks pretty good after one coat. Another two or three to go.



    Sent from my EVA-L09 using Tapatalk
    Mission 774 OG Tonearm > Toshiba SR 370 Turntable > ZYX R50 Bloom cartridge > Firebottle OTP Phono Stage > Firebottle Monoblocks > Fisual Hollywood Speaker Cables > Pioneer CS-77A Speakers

  9. #29
    Join Date: Nov 2015

    Location: Wolverhampton

    Posts: 1,779
    I'm Oliver.

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    Now to ebay for some replacement Pioneer badges. The others were peeling so I removed them to sand underneath.

    Sent from my EVA-L09 using Tapatalk
    Mission 774 OG Tonearm > Toshiba SR 370 Turntable > ZYX R50 Bloom cartridge > Firebottle OTP Phono Stage > Firebottle Monoblocks > Fisual Hollywood Speaker Cables > Pioneer CS-77A Speakers

  10. #30
    Join Date: Jan 2017

    Location: Kansas City, Missouri

    Posts: 590
    I'm Nathan.

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    Looking good.

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