SOURCE:OPPO UDP-205 BluRay, SkyQ, Technics SL1210M5G/HexMat Eclipse/MN Bearing/Origin Live Gravity One puck/Isonoes with Boots/Jelco TK-850S Tonearm/Hana Umami Blue, PS Audio Stellar Phonostage. I also have an AT-OC9XSH as a spare cartridge.
AMPLIFIER: Bryston BR-20 Pre/DAC/Streamer & Bryston 4B3 Power Amplifier
SPEAKERS: Spendor D7 on Iso-Acoustics Gaia III’s
HEADPHONES: OPPO PM-1 with Atlas Zeno cable, B&W Pi7 S2 and B&W C5 v2.
CABLES: Analogue: Speaker Atlas Mavros Grun. Interconnect - Atlas Mavros XLR x3, MCRU Silver Tonearm cable
Digital:Audioquest Carbon Ethernet x 4, Audioquest Carbon digital, English Electric 8Switch, Chord Optichord, Atlas Optical.
Mains: PS Audio Perfectwave AC-05 x 5, Isol-8 Powerline Extreme with Quantum Science yellow fuse on input cable, Sounds Fantastic 6way Mains Blocks.
STORAGE: Synology DS216J NAS with 2 x 3Tb WD Red hard-drives. Samsung 500Gb SSD.
TV LG55B7 OLED
I have never worked out how to remove the line of dust that forms up on the record when you use a carbon fibre brush. In my experience, once you have concentrated all the debris into a single broad stripe like that, it is practically impossible to get it off without leaving a "shadow".
The most effective method of removing dust that I have come across was the original Pixall "Off the Record" adhesive tape roller, used across the record while the dust was still naturally distributed across its surface (ie. without using a brush to try and collect it first). Second best option is the Nagaoka roller, I think.
IB.
I find the bristles on carbon fibre record brushes too long and floppy. I've had several and have given up on them. My vintage Nagaoka Argento-4 velvet brush does a great job.
It is impossible for anything digital to sound analogue, because it isn't analogue!
Break out the woodglue
I only ride 'em, I don't know what makes 'em work
I use one of these.
Advantage (I guess) is the span of the brush covers the entire radius of the LP?
Best by far of any record brush I've tried, and I've tried all the usual suspects.
This, and an RCM and your sorted.
From an antistatic point of view, guys on the Nikon camera forum swear by it!
Good enough for me!
AC POWER
Hardwired 10kVA balanced mains powering entire system
AMPS
Meridian 557 power Amp (Modded) / PS Audio BHK Preamp (Modded)
SPEAKERS
Wharfedale Evo 4.4
DAC
PS Audio Directstream (Modded)
TURNTABLE
Pro-Ject X8 balanced output via XLR / Ortofon Quintet Blue cartridge
PHONOSTAGE
Pro-Ject DS3 B balanced Input (TT and Phonostage powered by Pro-Ject Power box RS2 linear psu)
DIGITAL
OPPO 203 (Modded: Linear PSU, i2s output to Dac) - Roon Endpoint, HDMI input used for all things Streaming/ PS5 /AppleTV ... also good for movies apparently?
MUSIC PLAYBACK
Tweaked AP-Linux based Roon Server into Oppo 203 as Roon endpoint
Ipad Roon Remote.
Apple Music/ YouTube via AppleTV, fed to Dac via Oppo HDMI input/i2s output to Dac.
SPEAKER CABLES
Biwired: Duelund DCA10GA (Bass) Duelund DCA16GA (mid & treble) Duelund 12DCA used as jumpers (On "Blackcat Cable" Chris Sommivigo's advice - yup, even with biwire it sounds better - and it does)
INTERCONNECTS
All Balanced: Ghost+ recording studio XLR cables
It's all in the wrist action! Start with the brush as the arm of clock in 9 o'clock position. After two rotations of record and keeping the brush horizontal, move it at 45 degrees down to the right and exit the record so the brush is tangential to the 6 o'clock position at exit. Voila!
Geoff