+ Reply to Thread
Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 21 to 30 of 34

Thread: recomend me a soldering station

  1. #21
    Join Date: Jan 2013

    Location: Durham - UK

    Posts: 1,303
    I'm Ken.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Arkless Electronics View Post
    I've been tempted to try one of the many el cheapo Chinese soldering stations available nowadays but the thing that put's me off is the likelihood of being unable to obtain new bits, elements etc in maybe only 2 years time...
    I bought one of the Chinese copies of the hakko soldering stations, it didn't see the first day out
    Ken

    http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/
    DIY Technics/ProJect based Turntable + Terminator linear tracker + Ortofon MC20 Supreme / Pro-Ject Phono box & Pre Box RS / KMTech Active X-Over / Nakamichi AVP1 Power / DIY Sealed Three Way Speakers / Stello CDT100 Transport / DAC Magic.

  2. #22
    Join Date: Nov 2011

    Location: Manchester, UK

    Posts: 125
    I'm Simon.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Reffc View Post
    I'd stick with Weller. I use the bomb-proof 50 Watt WTCP 51 soldering station with a massive choice of relatively cheap tips (RS components sell them). The tip choice changes the temperature using a magnetic strength system (as the tip heats up and reaches temperature, the magnetism decreases so shutting off the magnetic switch in the iron and killing the electric supply until it cools slightly). It's a clever and reliable system.

    The elements rarely go on these. I know someone who has used one for donkeys years without any failures. I had an issue with mine which I traced to a wiring fault. 10 minutes later it was repaired and working again.

    50 watts is a good tip to use as it ensures sufficient heat availability even with large truncated conical tips, without excessive heat loss through heat sinking into work. It means shorter contact time for more rapid soldering which can be important on some delicate jobs. You can get away with much less though and even a 20 or 25 watt iron will do mostly what you need.
    What he said

    I used cheap Antex for years but the switch to Weller has been stunning, especially with lead free solder.
    SJS Arcadia Line Level Pre-amplifiers, Headphone amps, MM Phono Stages and SET Power amps - service, repairs, upgrades

  3. #23
    Join Date: Jan 2017

    Location: Kansas City, Missouri

    Posts: 590
    I'm Nathan.

    Default

    I used to love Weller stations. The one I used for years died. The next two didn't didn't survive a year between them. That's what finally pushed me to the Hakko.

    I never use lead free solder. There are people that do board work with a gun. Having a nice tool makes it easier, but practice makes you good at it.

    Sent from my Z981 using Tapatalk

  4. #24
    Join Date: Dec 2011

    Location: Athens

    Posts: 263
    I'm Dimitris.

    Default

    Yep
    Practice, a clean 2-3mm chisel tip at the right temperature and .5mm leaded solder
    Sources: Modified SL1200 MK2, Salas folded RIAA, Phonoclone, VSPS, Shelter 501 MK2, Modified Pioneer P6D6 as transport, Shigaclone transport, Peter Daniel NOS DAC.
    Amplification: Custom 211 Monoblocks, Electrocompaniet AW120, Audio Research VS110, Gainclone
    Loudspeakers: Tannoy Turnberry, PBN Montana EP Signature
    Cables/stands: Tempflex ribbon and Twinax cables
    Other: Promitheus Signature Passive Attenuator, Custom JFET - transformer preamp.

  5. #25
    Join Date: Jan 2017

    Location: Kansas City, Missouri

    Posts: 590
    I'm Nathan.

    Default

    That's where I ended up after years of trial and error.

    Sent from my Z981 using Tapatalk

  6. #26
    Join Date: Mar 2014

    Location: Herefordshire

    Posts: 50
    I'm Alex.

    Default

    Another vote to stay with Weller, spares will always be ready available.

  7. #27
    Join Date: Oct 2009

    Location: Birmingham, UK

    Posts: 284
    I'm Phil.

    Default

    After much consideration I purchased the hakko 888d , I had a go at tinning the ends of some klotz mc5000 wires, set temp to 250c and I managed to
    do this without melting the insulation which has been a problem in the past unless ive used wire with ptfe insulation , this has put me off making interconnects , hopefully with a bit practice I can improve . phil.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Phil.

  8. #28
    Join Date: Dec 2011

    Location: Athens

    Posts: 263
    I'm Dimitris.

    Default

    Solid choice

    What tips did you buy?
    Sources: Modified SL1200 MK2, Salas folded RIAA, Phonoclone, VSPS, Shelter 501 MK2, Modified Pioneer P6D6 as transport, Shigaclone transport, Peter Daniel NOS DAC.
    Amplification: Custom 211 Monoblocks, Electrocompaniet AW120, Audio Research VS110, Gainclone
    Loudspeakers: Tannoy Turnberry, PBN Montana EP Signature
    Cables/stands: Tempflex ribbon and Twinax cables
    Other: Promitheus Signature Passive Attenuator, Custom JFET - transformer preamp.

  9. #29
    Join Date: Mar 2012

    Location: West Yorkshire

    Posts: 172
    I'm Bruce.

    Default

    Last week I was reading some good reviews on the Antex 50w TCS variable and beginning to think about giving it a go.
    Bruce

    Theories are not so much answers as questions, to be supported or undermined by experience & testing.

    Source: Calyx 24/192 DAC, Laptop w/JRMC. Amplification: Classe Audio 30/70 balanced. Loudspeakers: Proac Response 1sc. Cables/stands: spkr MIT MH-750 / HT Truthlink XLR, Vampire AI2, RFC Pluto, heavy sand-filled Target stands for speakers and Hi-Fi. Bass traps in corners, acoustic panels at first reflection points. Isolation: Roller bearings & cups, inner tubes. Mains: Balanced power transformer feeding hydra mains block.

  10. #30
    Join Date: Dec 2015

    Location: vancouver

    Posts: 642
    I'm danilo.

    Default

    Lusted after a decent Weller station for years.
    Always thinking that I don't /won't do enough solder melting to bother/need one.
    So I keep using my 45 yr old Weller Craftsman 25 watt pencil. Last week had to solder some TINY smd bits: an IC, resistors and Leds about the size of a speck of Dandruff onto an 8mm square PCB.
    Had to use 2 pair of glasses and a light/work lens just to see the damned things. A tough slog.
    Weller worked Fine though.. Fairly neat job of it too... mercifully.
    My audio bits: Thorens / diy phono, CD/dvd player(s), diy pre, F6, Tannoy Golds in my boxes / my xovers, and of course all strung together with basic diy Wires
    Lots of Cd's, yet more audio files, a couple of hundred semi worn Lps.

+ Reply to Thread
Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast



 

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •