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Thread: recomend me a soldering station

  1. #11
    Join Date: Sep 2014

    Location: brighton uk.

    Posts: 2,016
    I'm jamie.

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    ok what wattage/temperature is best for soldering? ie crossover work,changing caps etc?
    My System/ Yamaha NS1000M,Mordaunt Short Signifer,Monitor Audio R952 MD,Pioneer PLC-1700, DD,TT, Townsend Elite rock 2,,Alphason HR-100S-MCS,Ortofon 2M BLACK ,Sony 700ES Amp,Sony X555ES CD Player, Nakamichi ca5 pre amp ,

  2. #12
    Join Date: Mar 2012

    Location: Gloucestershire

    Posts: 3,951
    I'm Paul.

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    I'd stick with Weller. I use the bomb-proof 50 Watt WTCP 51 soldering station with a massive choice of relatively cheap tips (RS components sell them). The tip choice changes the temperature using a magnetic strength system (as the tip heats up and reaches temperature, the magnetism decreases so shutting off the magnetic switch in the iron and killing the electric supply until it cools slightly). It's a clever and reliable system.

    The elements rarely go on these. I know someone who has used one for donkeys years without any failures. I had an issue with mine which I traced to a wiring fault. 10 minutes later it was repaired and working again.

    50 watts is a good tip to use as it ensures sufficient heat availability even with large truncated conical tips, without excessive heat loss through heat sinking into work. It means shorter contact time for more rapid soldering which can be important on some delicate jobs. You can get away with much less though and even a 20 or 25 watt iron will do mostly what you need.

  3. #13
    Join Date: Jan 2017

    Location: Kansas City, Missouri

    Posts: 590
    I'm Nathan.

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    It depends on the components and size of solder you are using.

    I use .5mm for most board work, 1mm or bigger for things like big wires, tabs and turrets. I used to run my iron cooler than I do now, I tend to crank it up as far as I can without the flux going poof. Everyone figures out what works for them over time.

    I'm waiting for my Chinese rework tool to electrocute me too.



    Sent from my Z981 using Tapatalk

  4. #14
    Join Date: Sep 2011

    Location: Kilmarnock, Ayrshire, Scotland

    Posts: 233
    I'm stuart.

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    I've used metcals for 30 years ad never once had an issue

  5. #15
    Join Date: Feb 2008

    Location: Middlesex, UK

    Posts: 2,683
    I'm Alex.


  6. #16
    Join Date: Oct 2016

    Location: Bolton, England

    Posts: 453
    I'm Andrew.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Reffc View Post
    It means shorter contact time for more rapid soldering which can be important on some delicate jobs.
    This true and often overlooked. A hot tip with good thermal mass is less likely to damage delicate components because it gets the joint up to temperature quickly and allows the solder joint to be completed quickly. A lukewarm tip held in contact with the joint for ages just gets the component's innards hotter and hotter. Not a good idea.

  7. #17
    Join Date: Sep 2014

    Location: brighton uk.

    Posts: 2,016
    I'm jamie.

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    cheers for the links,he's done a load of videos which explain things the novice will understand (me)
    i liked the one on components,ie diodes capacitors etc
    My System/ Yamaha NS1000M,Mordaunt Short Signifer,Monitor Audio R952 MD,Pioneer PLC-1700, DD,TT, Townsend Elite rock 2,,Alphason HR-100S-MCS,Ortofon 2M BLACK ,Sony 700ES Amp,Sony X555ES CD Player, Nakamichi ca5 pre amp ,

  8. #18
    Join Date: Feb 2008

    Location: Middlesex, UK

    Posts: 2,683
    I'm Alex.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jamie123 View Post
    cheers for the links,he's done a load of videos which explain things the novice will understand (me)
    i liked the one on components,ie diodes capacitors etc
    And strangely entertaining.
    Spendorman

  9. #19
    Join Date: Sep 2014

    Location: brighton uk.

    Posts: 2,016
    I'm jamie.

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    yes,i was compelled to watch both vids on the soldering stations
    My System/ Yamaha NS1000M,Mordaunt Short Signifer,Monitor Audio R952 MD,Pioneer PLC-1700, DD,TT, Townsend Elite rock 2,,Alphason HR-100S-MCS,Ortofon 2M BLACK ,Sony 700ES Amp,Sony X555ES CD Player, Nakamichi ca5 pre amp ,

  10. #20
    Join Date: Dec 2011

    Location: Athens

    Posts: 263
    I'm Dimitris.

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    The station I used for the past 5 or so years is an ERSA RDS 80.
    Nice quality, and it's still going strong. It has some cut corners though.
    It feels a bit more boutique than a solid workhorse tool. For example, the DIN connector is not a metal locking one and has become a bit loose, losing connection sometimes.
    The tips go at a rate of about one every 3-4 months using daily both leaded and ROHS solder, but with proper cleaning and solder application between uses.
    They cost about 20 euros.
    The replacement iron is about 50 euros, but I have not needed one yet.

    A few months ago I also pulled the trigger on a Chinese one because I also wanted a desoldering gun. So I went for the ZD-917 (there is a newer version now available).
    I am using it exclusively since I bought it and I have no problems with it so far.
    Tips are 20 euros for 10 (yes 10 ) and the one I am using now is like new after a couple of months of use.
    Replacement gun is about 40 euros and replacement iron is about 20euros.
    And parts seem to be available in big quantities from many vendors both on ebay and locally (Athens Greece)
    And the desoldering gun is a gift from God if you do frequent part replacing. I will never go back to manual pump ever again
    Now there are two things I do not like. The one is that temperature overshoots during startup in a non-obvious way. You have to push up-down to see the actual temperature which can be 100C+ during initial warm-up. Like in the 858D hot air station.
    The second thing I do not like is that the desoldering gun can get clogged because the back end of the heating tube is thin and does not have enough mass to maintain a high temperature to keep solder liquid if an amount is not properly sucked into the waste chamber. It can easily be unclogged though by removing the waste chamber, removing any excess solder with the soldering iron and increasing the gun's temp to around 450C to melt any residue inside the tube. Takes ~1-2 minutes but it is annoying when it happens. I've never used the included files. I never liked such invasive maintenance on my soldering tools.

    Overall I am very happy with both.

    I also thought of getting a Hakko because of all the good reviews, but because of all that popularity they are almost double the price here and I do not like buying such devices from abroad.
    I prefer to have local and easy support.
    Sources: Modified SL1200 MK2, Salas folded RIAA, Phonoclone, VSPS, Shelter 501 MK2, Modified Pioneer P6D6 as transport, Shigaclone transport, Peter Daniel NOS DAC.
    Amplification: Custom 211 Monoblocks, Electrocompaniet AW120, Audio Research VS110, Gainclone
    Loudspeakers: Tannoy Turnberry, PBN Montana EP Signature
    Cables/stands: Tempflex ribbon and Twinax cables
    Other: Promitheus Signature Passive Attenuator, Custom JFET - transformer preamp.

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