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Thread: Mission 774 counterweight repair.

  1. #11
    Join Date: Sep 2014

    Location: brighton uk.

    Posts: 4,737
    I'm jamie.

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    good idea and you can get it in black too!
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  2. #12
    Join Date: Feb 2008

    Location: Sunny (occasionally) Devon

    Posts: 1,713
    I'm Shane.

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    Re-posting this with links to photos repaired. (I see that a pack of Sugru is now £14 instead of £8. In three years??)

    It's a familiar problem. There you are, owner of one of the best pickup arms around and you probably only paid a bargain basement couple of hundred quid for it, but the counterweight appears to be held together By a lump of semi-congealed snot. It doesn't appear to affect the sound too much, but it makes accurate setup a nightmare, and it looks frankly revolting.



    So what to do? Ok, there are plenty of nice people out there who will make you a very nice replacement, but it'll probably cost you getting on for half of what you paid for the whole thing. What's needed is a simple way to replace the bogey with something a bit more wholesome. I've been looking for something suitable for the three years since I got my 774, and now I think I've found it. It was a bit of a shot in the dark, but for a little over eight quid, it had to be worth a punt.

    This is where you get it:
    https://sugru.com/buy/?gclid=CMaIk5CC9dECFRaeGwodLVUDyQ ,

    and this is what you you get:

    [/img]


    Inside the pack pack you get these:




    and inside each of those is one of these, which is a bit like a lump of blutack, but not as sticky. And not blue in my case 'cos I preferred black, although there are several different colours available. White would be interesting...




    By lucky chance, one sachet contains exactly the right amount to do the job in hand. The other two will keep for up to a year if unopened, or longer if you keep them in the fridge. What is it, you ask? A rather clever putty that sticks to almost anything, and sets to become a lump of silicone rubber, rather like the spatula you use to get the last of the cake mixture out of the mixing bowl. It takes about 24 hours to go off, depending on temperature, and it's workable for about half an hour after you open the sachet. This job was easily completed in about ten minutes.

    Start off by pulling the centre stem of the counterwight out of the Sorbothane, which won't be difficult, then push the Sorbothane out of the ring with a finger. Clean off any residues with IPA or white spirit, making sure you clean that off as well with a clean cloth. This is what you'll be left with:




    By lucky chance, the packing note that comes with the Sugru has a large area of waxy paper where a sticky label has been removed. Open one sachet and start by wrapping the Sugru around the stem of the counterweight, with the edge of the wodge level with the end of the stem away from the knurled finger grip. Then roll the whole thing on the wax paper on a flat surface until you have a cylinder of Sugru wrapped evenly around the stem, very slightly smaller in diameter than the bore of the counterweight ring. You should end up with this:




    Now insert the Sugru-wrapped stem into the counterweight ring, and stand the whole thing on its end on the wax paper with the knurled grip pointing upwards. Push down on the spindle so that it's touching the paper so it looks like this:




    Now use something like the tip of a teaspoon handle to press the Sugru down into the assembly so it completely fills the space between the ring and the stem. You'll find that some of it will squeeze through the slits in the stem. Remove this with a cotton bud. Use a Stanley knife blade to trim off the excess and leave a smooth finish to the exposed Sugru.

    Leave it standing on the wax paper in a warm place to set for 24 hours, then trim off any excess and clean any residues with a paper towel. Re-install on the arm, and you should have something like this:




    Job done. Now all you have to do is think of something to do with the other two sachets. Isolation feet? Cable tidy? Surprise me...
    Time flies like an arrow.
    Fruit flies like a banana.

  3. #13
    Join Date: Apr 2012

    Location: N E Kent

    Posts: 51,624
    I'm Geoff.

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    Yes, it's a good fix. Not had to do it myself as mine have had OK sorbothane isolation, but I have pondered what I'd use.
    It is impossible for anything digital to sound analogue, because it isn't analogue!

  4. #14
    Join Date: Aug 2009

    Location: West Yorkshire

    Posts: 1,796
    I'm Stephen.

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    One of the 774 counterweights I have was getting a bit saggy. I took the opportunity to add a bit of mass during the repair by adding 5g of Atabites inside the counterweight then securing with 1g of epoxy adhesive. You just need to wrap the threaded insert with something to prevent the epoxy fouling the threads. Worked a treat - additional mass but retains the looks and damping of the original. I can also recommend the XDA custom counterweight - I bought the 77/102 g to enable me to mount my Paradoxpulse DL-103 - works like a charm

    Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk
    Always a little further

  5. #15
    Join Date: Jun 2020

    Location: Leeds/UK

    Posts: 48
    I'm Kev.

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    Quote Originally Posted by worrasf View Post
    .........I took the opportunity to add a bit of mass during the repair by adding 5g of Atabites inside the counterweight then securing with 1g of epoxy adhesive. .........
    Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk
    Adding the extra mass to the c/w....surely means that one rotation is no longer +/- 0.2g....!!?

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