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Thread: platter/bearing wobble?

  1. #21
    Join Date: Feb 2017

    Location: Surrey, UK

    Posts: 43
    I'm Mark.

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    Looks like the platter may be off centre to me. Does the stylus go up and down or in and out when playing?

  2. #22
    Join Date: May 2015

    Location: United Kingdom

    Posts: 17
    I'm Mike.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dalek Supreme D L View Post
    I have a Funk mk1 platter and no wobble, also Mike New metal platter, again no wobble.

    I suspect much of this is down to incorrectly installed bearings and platters that are not lowered centred on to the bearing taper.

    There was an issue with the new Funk platter early on before the depth of the hole in the Funk platter was adjusted, it was made slightly deeper.
    When you apply pressure on the edge of platter with your hand, does it move? Or remain 100% flat? Mine still has a smidgen of play. I believe my platter is the MK1, it has the regular Acromat black & white logo on it. I bought it second hand so have no idea how old it is. The screws that hold the bearing in place on my deck were not a perfect fit, I had to do a bit of wiggling, adjusting, removing and re-trying to get the screws all the way down. The philips heads are nearly threaded as a result : /

  3. #23
    Join Date: Nov 2008

    Location: Belfast/Northern Ireland/UK

    Posts: 15,916
    I'm Neil.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rhythmbug View Post
    When you apply pressure on the edge of platter with your hand, does it move? Or remain 100% flat? Mine still has a smidgen of play. I believe my platter is the MK1, it has the regular Acromat black & white logo on it. I bought it second hand so have no idea how old it is. The screws that hold the bearing in place on my deck were not a perfect fit, I had to do a bit of wiggling, adjusting, removing and re-trying to get the screws all the way down. The philips heads are nearly threaded as a result : /
    No movement at all, mine is a Funk mk1 too. The threads in the base of the Technics are very easily damaged stripping is very easy. There are small variations in the base of Technics decks I had three hear at one time and there were subtle differences which could explain that issue you have regarding the screws.
    Regards Neil

  4. #24
    Join Date: May 2015

    Location: United Kingdom

    Posts: 17
    I'm Mike.

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    Interesting. It could be tolerances or parts not sitting totally flat after tinkering with it. Well, I managed to secure the platter with (I hate to say this) a bit of force. I removed it and re-secured by leaning on it with my hands and body weight in the area where the "dip" was and forcing it down into the position I wanted it, rather than just letting it sit. Now it doesn't move at all, and the VTA is 98% consistent across the deck. Solved.

  5. #25
    Join Date: Apr 2015

    Location: Central Virginia

    Posts: 464
    I'm Russell.

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    Any visible variances in the platter is completely unacceptable. Variances that you can't see can be enough to create rumble and wow in your playback. If you have a mechanic friend you may borrow a runout indicator. A dial indicator with a pin sticking out, some have magnetic bases. If you can set it up and read the runout of the spindle, then this can tell you if it's the platter or the bearing. If the spindle has very little runout, then your bearing is good. If the edge of the platter runs out then the platter is out of round. And if the top of the platter goes up and down, then it's not setting right on the spindle. If you can't get a dial indicator, just a C clamp and a stationary stick can tell you if the gap is changing with feeler gauges. If these things seem to be out of control, If any of these things are off and you can't make them right, sell that table and buy another. These errors will cause wow and rumble and other audible artifacts that you can hear. Heck, I've had well respected record players that sounded like a bowling ball rolling down the lane during the silent spaces! I can't imagine if I could actually see it wobbling. Just my humble opinion, if it sounds good to you then rock it!


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  6. #26
    Join Date: Jan 2010

    Location: Sydney, Australia

    Posts: 826
    I'm Mike.

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    Cagey
    I think you will find that your statement of difference in the taper is very much incorrect.
    This was suggested by "other uninformed people' some years ago and generally accepted by the informed community to be wrong.
    Many of the OEM platters do have a slight wobble. In fact what you align to when assessing the "wobble' is the outer top silver rim
    of the platter.
    If you place a Dial Indicator Gage (as I have done) on many of the platters just inside the outer ring you would find a considerable movement!!

  7. #27
    Join Date: Jan 2010

    Location: Sydney, Australia

    Posts: 826
    I'm Mike.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rhythmbug View Post
    Interesting. It could be tolerances or parts not sitting totally flat after tinkering with it. Well, I managed to secure the platter with (I hate to say this) a bit of force. I removed it and re-secured by leaning on it with my hands and body weight in the area where the "dip" was and forcing it down into the position I wanted it, rather than just letting it sit. Now it doesn't move at all, and the VTA is 98% consistent across the deck. Solved.
    Did you think to carefully clean the inside of the taper? this is often the cause of error.
    Also smear a small amount of grease onto the bearing taper this permits the platter to seat more easily.

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