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Thread: Do I 'up' my turntable budget?

  1. #41
    montesquieu Guest

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    I would say idlers all the way - I see the attraction of DDs but they leave me a bit cold for the most part.

    Cheapest is a Lenco project. If low budget get a Lenco GL75. New v-blocks and it performs far better than it looks. Change the arm when you have funds. Then Re-plinth or dismantle and built into a PTP project. Or if like me you aren't big on DIY, ones other people have done come up regularly on the Lenco foum usually for less than the cost of the bits.

    Alternatively, a bit more cash gets a Garrard 401 ... if it was a modern turntable would literally cost thousands. My favourite idler is the Thorens TD124 but harder to get a good one than it is to get a decent Garrard. With either, you have a ton of plinth and arm options to suit.

  2. #42
    Join Date: Apr 2012

    Location: N E Kent

    Posts: 51,625
    I'm Geoff.

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    Having owned several Garrards, I'd say nice as they can be, I prefer the sound of the G88 and G99 Goldring (Lenco) idlers. Suitably plinthed of course.

    Mind you. Having been comparatively cheap, the G88 and G99 are now progessively catching the Garrards up in asking prices.

    The GL75 and GL78 can also be brought up to a fine standard of sound quality.
    Last edited by walpurgis; 17-01-2017 at 09:45.
    It is impossible for anything digital to sound analogue, because it isn't analogue!

  3. #43
    Join Date: Oct 2012

    Location: NE England

    Posts: 4,173
    I'm Jez.

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    Quote Originally Posted by struth View Post
    indeed, for the money they are excellent value. I believe they basically were sold at a loss initially; certainly little profit. My thorens (which was heavily modded)was excellent as many can attest and perhaps had it over the slatedeck on resolution, and was better with a good mc, but think the slate has a bit more drive if thats the right word. My main reason for change was for stability, as Im getting pretty shakey at times due to being fcuk-ed I had a hard paper round
    Technics motor were they not? Yeah I guess resolution and retrieval of fine detail and spacial information is where it's at for me and this is where I reckon SSBD's excel. "Drive", "pace" etc are not very important to me... I'll probably end up flogging the Lenco before I ever try it out to be honest. I did try it briefly once with a unipivot arm years ago but it was worse than dire... far worse than even a Garrard SP25 in every respect and rumbled like an approaching washing machine! I have serviced it just recently (I was going to "put it on the road" on a whim. It didn't happen) and found the main bearing appeared completely dry and so I lubed it with grease, which made it feel much smoother in rotation. I heard a GL75 sounding good at an early NEBO but generally I would have to say I am unimpressed with idler drive decks... and I've spent many hours with (bog standard) Garrard 301's and 401's in the past... Horses for courses and no good if we were all the same etc.... Tom, and Andrew (Rexton), and many others, swear by them!
    Arkless Electronics-Engineered to be better. Tel. 01670 530674 (after 1pm)

    Modded Thorens TD150, Audio Technica AT-1005 MkII, Technics EPC-300MC, Arkless Hybrid MC phono stage, Arkless passive pre, Arkless 50WPC Class A SS power amp, (or) Arkless modded Leak Stereo 20, Modded Kef Reference 105/3's
    ReVox PR99, Studer B62, Ferrograph Series 7, Tandberg TCD440, Hitachi FT-5500MkI, also FT-5500MkII
    Digital: Yamaha CDR-HD1500 (Digital Swiss army knife-CD recorder, player, hard drive, DAC and ADC in one), PC files via 24/96 sound card and SPDIF, modded Philips CD850, modded Philips CD104, modded DPA Little Bit DAC. Sennheiser HD580 cans with Arkless Headphone amp.
    Cables- free interconnects that come with CD players, mains leads from B&Q, dead kettles etc, extension leads from Tesco

  4. #44
    Join Date: Dec 2015

    Location: Alicante. Spain.

    Posts: 1,885
    I'm Adrian.

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    I didn't think I would find myself disagreeing with Tom but I wouldn't swap my Technics SP10 for an idler and a wad of cash thrown in. Well, I might try a 401 as a second deck in the future but I'd avoid Lenco like the plague if you don't want to be faffing about and spending a fortune on fitting it out right and then still be at the mercy of wobbly platters and springs that end up tied with elastic. I spent 2 years chasing that dream.

    A good example of an SP10 mk2 isn't cheap but it's a doddle to plinth and is easily serviced by a competent electrician. It's also very highly regarded and sought after.

    If I had to go belt drive I'd go for a Townsend Rock - but again my experiences with belt drive have been hit and miss. The worst was the original Pink Triangle - performance changed depending on the phase of the moon.

    Just my opinion.

    Adey

    In perpetual pursuit.
    Technics SP10 mk2
    Jan Allaerts MC 1 Boron mk1 cart
    Miyajima Shilabe cart
    Hashimoto HM-X SUT
    Siggwan (gimballed not unipivot) Cocobola 12"
    Aurorasound Vida LCR Phonostage
    The Truth linestage
    Dave Slagle Autoformer Volume Controller
    Cary 805c SET amps
    Audio Note ANe-SPX speakers
    Townshend Isolda speaker cables
    Cardas Golden Presence interconnects

  5. #45
    Join Date: Feb 2013

    Location: W Lothian

    Posts: 99,005
    I'm Grant.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Arkless Electronics View Post
    Technics motor were they not? Yeah I guess resolution and retrieval of fine detail and spacial information is where it's at for me and this is where I reckon SSBD's excel. "Drive", "pace" etc are not very important to me... I'll probably end up flogging the Lenco before I ever try it out to be honest. I did try it briefly once with a unipivot arm years ago but it was worse than dire... far worse than even a Garrard SP25 in every respect and rumbled like an approaching washing machine! I have serviced it just recently (I was going to "put it on the road" on a whim. It didn't happen) and found the main bearing appeared completely dry and so I lubed it with grease, which made it feel much smoother in rotation. I heard a GL75 sounding good at an early NEBO but generally I would have to say I am unimpressed with idler drive decks... and I've spent many hours with (bog standard) Garrard 301's and 401's in the past... Horses for courses and no good if we were all the same etc.... Tom, and Andrew (Rexton), and many others, swear by them!
    2000 series brushless DC motor i think . Not much torque but its pretty accurate and smooth, and gets up to speed quickly enough without sprinting. does me as it is rock solid physically so doesnt get affected by my stablising myself on the unit or the tt itself. Its also one of the prettiest imv. Great feet on it.
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  6. #46
    montesquieu Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by farflungstar View Post
    I didn't think I would find myself disagreeing with Tom but I wouldn't swap my Technics SP10 for an idler and a wad of cash thrown in. Well, I might try a 401 as a second deck in the future but I'd avoid Lenco like the plague if you don't want to be faffing about and spending a fortune on fitting it out right and then still be at the mercy of wobbly platters and springs that end up tied with elastic. I spent 2 years chasing that dream.

    A good example of an SP10 mk2 isn't cheap but it's a doddle to plinth and is easily serviced by a competent electrician. It's also very highly regarded and sought after.

    If I had to go belt drive I'd go for a Townsend Rock - but again my experiences with belt drive have been hit and miss. The worst was the original Pink Triangle - performance changed depending on the phase of the moon.

    Just my opinion.

    Adey

    In perpetual pursuit.
    SP10 is my favourite DD as it happens ....!

    I avoid belt drive decks these days. Agree Townshend right up there if that's the direction you are going (I had a II and a Rock Reference), but I have perfect pitch and after years of idlers can't deal any more with the speed wobble many belt drives make (even the Voyd 3-motor job that I had for a while) - it's just too noticable. Though strangely before I bought my first idler (a Garrard) I didn't hear it.

  7. #47
    Join Date: Jul 2016

    Location: Welsh Borders

    Posts: 283
    I'm Gary.

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    No-one has mentioned Nottingham Analogue, which is a surprise.
    I have had lots of use - all highly satisfactory - from various models, all of them unsuspended belt-drive types. Classy-looking, beautifully made, easy as pie to set-up, and they play wonderfully well with unipivot arms.
    IB

  8. #48
    Join Date: Oct 2012

    Location: NE England

    Posts: 4,173
    I'm Jez.

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    Quote Originally Posted by struth View Post
    2000 series brushless DC motor i think . Not much torque but its pretty accurate and smooth, and gets up to speed quickly enough without sprinting. does me as it is rock solid physically so doesnt get affected by my stablising myself on the unit or the tt itself. Its also one of the prettiest imv. Great feet on it.
    Yeah huge chunky plastic knurled feet! What arm do you use on it? I've mostly seen them with SME 3009's of either series 2 or 3, both of which I've owned and both of which were flogged on quickly after listening to them! They look lovely though!
    Arkless Electronics-Engineered to be better. Tel. 01670 530674 (after 1pm)

    Modded Thorens TD150, Audio Technica AT-1005 MkII, Technics EPC-300MC, Arkless Hybrid MC phono stage, Arkless passive pre, Arkless 50WPC Class A SS power amp, (or) Arkless modded Leak Stereo 20, Modded Kef Reference 105/3's
    ReVox PR99, Studer B62, Ferrograph Series 7, Tandberg TCD440, Hitachi FT-5500MkI, also FT-5500MkII
    Digital: Yamaha CDR-HD1500 (Digital Swiss army knife-CD recorder, player, hard drive, DAC and ADC in one), PC files via 24/96 sound card and SPDIF, modded Philips CD850, modded Philips CD104, modded DPA Little Bit DAC. Sennheiser HD580 cans with Arkless Headphone amp.
    Cables- free interconnects that come with CD players, mains leads from B&Q, dead kettles etc, extension leads from Tesco

  9. #49
    Join Date: Oct 2012

    Location: NE England

    Posts: 4,173
    I'm Jez.

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    Quote Originally Posted by montesquieu View Post
    SP10 is my favourite DD as it happens ....!

    I avoid belt drive decks these days. Agree Townshend right up there if that's the direction you are going (I had a II and a Rock Reference), but I have perfect pitch and after years of idlers can't deal any more with the speed wobble many belt drives make (even the Voyd 3-motor job that I had for a while) - it's just too noticable. Though strangely before I bought my first idler (a Garrard) I didn't hear it.
    Yeah I can go with that to some degree... I am also very sensitive to speed instability and sometimes, if I consciously think about it, can hear it a slight bit on BD decks and found the total speed accuracy of my SL-150 MkII very nice in comparison. I will fix the Technics some day... I have a Studer R2R with a flutter issue which it seems no one but me can hear (out of 3 mates who listened anyway). I find it bad enough to render it unusable!
    Arkless Electronics-Engineered to be better. Tel. 01670 530674 (after 1pm)

    Modded Thorens TD150, Audio Technica AT-1005 MkII, Technics EPC-300MC, Arkless Hybrid MC phono stage, Arkless passive pre, Arkless 50WPC Class A SS power amp, (or) Arkless modded Leak Stereo 20, Modded Kef Reference 105/3's
    ReVox PR99, Studer B62, Ferrograph Series 7, Tandberg TCD440, Hitachi FT-5500MkI, also FT-5500MkII
    Digital: Yamaha CDR-HD1500 (Digital Swiss army knife-CD recorder, player, hard drive, DAC and ADC in one), PC files via 24/96 sound card and SPDIF, modded Philips CD850, modded Philips CD104, modded DPA Little Bit DAC. Sennheiser HD580 cans with Arkless Headphone amp.
    Cables- free interconnects that come with CD players, mains leads from B&Q, dead kettles etc, extension leads from Tesco

  10. #50
    Join Date: Dec 2015

    Location: Alicante. Spain.

    Posts: 1,885
    I'm Adrian.

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    Quote Originally Posted by montesquieu View Post
    SP10 is my favourite DD as it happens ....!

    I avoid belt drive decks these days. Agree Townshend right up there if that's the direction you are going (I had a II and a Rock Reference), but I have perfect pitch and after years of idlers can't deal any more with the speed wobble many belt drives make (even the Voyd 3-motor job that I had for a while) - it's just too noticable. Though strangely before I bought my first idler (a Garrard) I didn't hear it.
    That's why I wouldn't consider a belt drive these days. Bits of rubber have a habit of changing elasticity depending on temperature or age and just a slight drift in speed control leads to smearing of leading edges. Likewise pitch can suffer, especially noticeable on piano decay. The Nottingham get around this with huge platters whose inertia supposedly overcomes it, but not quite as well a precision control DD and I'm sure a well fettled Idler.
    Adey

    In perpetual pursuit.
    Technics SP10 mk2
    Jan Allaerts MC 1 Boron mk1 cart
    Miyajima Shilabe cart
    Hashimoto HM-X SUT
    Siggwan (gimballed not unipivot) Cocobola 12"
    Aurorasound Vida LCR Phonostage
    The Truth linestage
    Dave Slagle Autoformer Volume Controller
    Cary 805c SET amps
    Audio Note ANe-SPX speakers
    Townshend Isolda speaker cables
    Cardas Golden Presence interconnects

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