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Thread: Wasn't gonna post this...

  1. #111
    Join Date: Sep 2009

    Location: Derbyshire

    Posts: 9,249
    I'm Josie.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jimbo View Post
    Jo, I have a HIFI Tuning Fuse you can try - think its a 3.15a fuse if that's any good?
    Hi James.

    Many thanks. I've just checked my pre and my fuse is rated higher. Many thanks for the kind offer!
    Ultrafide U500DC power amplifier - Croft Vitale )highly modified) - TRIO L-07D Turntable - Denon DL103C1 - Funk Firm Houdini - Lentek MC head amp - 15" Tannoy Monitor Gold Loudspeakers in Lockwood Major cabinets (From Trident Studios) - Tannoyista SPEC 3 Custom Crossovers - VanDamme Black Speaker Cable

    Tannoyista.com
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  2. #112
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Wrexham, North Wales, UK

    Posts: 110,012
    I'm AudioAl'sArbiterForPISHANTO.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ali Tait View Post
    Try removing and replacing the original fuse first, see if you can hear a difference.
    Good advice, Ali.

    Also, if you're sceptical and worried that the improvement you're hearing with 'audiophile' fuses is due to expectation bias, or can't get your head around technically why they should be any different, sonically, from a standard fuse, then buy some new standard fuses of the same amperage rating as those originally fitted to the equipment, and test them against the expensive 'audiophile' fuses.

    If you can't hear much difference, then chances are the improvement gained has been as a result of simply renewing the existing (heavily used) stock fuse, the performance of which will have deteriorated over time [lets face it, some of these fuses could've been inside equipment for YEARS, and few of us even will even think about it], together with the fact that the 'audiophile' fuse will have brand new, often polished gold end-caps fitted, and the fact that the internal contacts in the equipment will have been cleaned during the process of pulling fuses in and out...

    Therefore, for those who can't afford to, or are unwilling to shell out for expensive 'audiophile' fuses, simply try replacing all the existing fuses in your equipment with identical standard ones, and while you're at it, polish the end caps up to a fine shine, along with cleaning the internal contacts in the fuse holders, and I *guarantee* you'll obtain 85-90% of the improvement gained by fitting 'audiophile' fuses

    Then if you hear an improvement with that, and want to go the extra mile and gain that last 10%, or so, then invest in some Hi-Fi Tuning fuses or SRs!

    Quite simply, the exercise is all about reducing resistance and the effect of electrical 'bottlenecks' - and the results gained will vary from system to system and where the changes are applied.

    Marco.
    Main System

    Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & reg mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat/Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight/Isonoe feet & boots/Ortofon RS-212D/Denon DL-103GL in Denon PCL-300 headshell with Funk Firm Houdini/Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.

    Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp/Denon AU-310 SUT.

    Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.

    CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.

    Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new, by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.

    Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. LDR Stereo Coffee. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.

    Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.

    Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.

    Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.


    Protect your HUMAN RIGHTS and REFUSE ANY *MANDATORY* VACCINE FOR COVID-19!

    Also **SAY NO** to unjust 'vaccine passports' or certificates, which are totally incompatible with a FREE society!!!


  3. #113
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Wrexham, North Wales, UK

    Posts: 110,012
    I'm AudioAl'sArbiterForPISHANTO.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by CageyH View Post
    Interesting: NOTE: The “blow characteristics” will differ slightly (due to the different metallurgy of the fuse elements) between commercial grade and audio grade fuses. We can't guarantee that your audiophile grade fuse, won’t blow at a different in-rush current threshold, that your stock commercial fuse.
    Interesting, and precisely what Anthony was on about earlier! That's definitely something you should consider *very seriously* before using these fuses, which is why I only use them in low current-drawing equipment, such as CDPs and preamps - and NEVER on something potentially electrically volatile, such as a valve power amp.

    The bottom line is that only YOU can decide how safe they are to use and whether you want to take the risk, in terms of faults occurring and subsequently damaged equipment, from the use of 'audiophile' fuses, and the result of any insurance claim afterwards.

    Marco.
    Main System

    Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & reg mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat/Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight/Isonoe feet & boots/Ortofon RS-212D/Denon DL-103GL in Denon PCL-300 headshell with Funk Firm Houdini/Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.

    Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp/Denon AU-310 SUT.

    Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.

    CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.

    Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new, by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.

    Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. LDR Stereo Coffee. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.

    Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.

    Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.

    Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.


    Protect your HUMAN RIGHTS and REFUSE ANY *MANDATORY* VACCINE FOR COVID-19!

    Also **SAY NO** to unjust 'vaccine passports' or certificates, which are totally incompatible with a FREE society!!!


  4. #114
    Join Date: Feb 2008

    Location: South Wales

    Posts: 9,151
    I'm NotTakingLifeTooSeriouslyTheseDays.

    Default

    All I will say further on the subject is this; just be careful where you fit them, and try not to leave equipment fitted with them on when not in use!
    Be safe.
    A...
    Quote Originally Posted by Marco View Post
    Interesting, and precisely what Anthony was on about earlier! That's definitely something you should consider *very seriously* before using these fuses, which is why I only use them in low current-drawing equipment, such as CDPs and preamps - and NEVER on something potentially electrically volatile, such as a valve amp.

    The bottom line is that only YOU can decide how safe they are to use and whether you want to take the risk, in terms of faults occurring and subsequently damaged equipment, from the use of 'audiophile' fuses, and the result of any insurance claim afterwards.

    Marco.
    "Today scientists have substituted mathematics for experiments, and they wander off through equation after equation, and eventually build a structure which has no relation to reality"
    Nikola Tesla



    Its now a conspiracy theory to believe that the Immune system is capable of doing the job it was designed to do.
    A fish is only as healthy as the water its swimming in ! [Dr Robert Young]


    www.tubedistinctions.co.uk

    Matthew 5:10

  5. #115
    Join Date: Dec 2015

    Location: Alicante. Spain.

    Posts: 1,885
    I'm Adrian.

    Default

    Marco, I pm'd you about something..

    Adey

    In perpetual pursuit.
    Technics SP10 mk2
    Jan Allaerts MC 1 Boron mk1 cart
    Miyajima Shilabe cart
    Hashimoto HM-X SUT
    Siggwan (gimballed not unipivot) Cocobola 12"
    Aurorasound Vida LCR Phonostage
    The Truth linestage
    Dave Slagle Autoformer Volume Controller
    Cary 805c SET amps
    Audio Note ANe-SPX speakers
    Townshend Isolda speaker cables
    Cardas Golden Presence interconnects

  6. #116
    Join Date: Aug 2009

    Location: Staffordshire, England

    Posts: 37,872
    I'm Martin.

    Default

    I should be okay. I don't leave the kit powered on when not listening to it and I don't have any insurance to invalidate

    Not sure how an existing fuse can 'deteriorate' though. I mean it is just a piece of wire and it isn't exposed to the elements?
    Current Lash Up:

    TEAC VRDS 701T > Sony TAE1000ESD > Krell KSA50S > JM Labs Focal Electra 926.

  7. #117
    Join Date: Sep 2013

    Location: North Island New Zealand

    Posts: 1,757
    I'm Chris.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Marco View Post
    Good advice, Ali.

    Also, if you're sceptical and worried that the improvement you're hearing with 'audiophile' fuses is due to expectation bias, or can't get your head around technically why they should be any different, sonically, from a standard fuse, then buy some new standard fuses of the same amperage rating as those originally fitted to the equipment, and test them against the expensive 'audiophile' fuses.

    If you can't hear much difference, then chances are the improvement gained has been as a result of simply renewing the existing (heavily used) stock fuse, the performance of which will have deteriorated over time [lets face it, some of these fuses could've been inside equipment for YEARS, and few of us even will even think about it], together with the fact that the 'audiophile' fuse will have brand new, often polished gold end-caps, and the fact that the internal contacts will have been cleaned during the process of pulling fuses in and out...

    Therefore, for those who can't afford to, or are unwilling to shell out for expensive 'audiophile' fuses, simply try replacing all the existing fuses in your equipment with identical standard ones, and while you're at it, polish the end caps up to a fine shine, along with cleaning the internal contacts in the fuse holders, and I *guarantee* you'll obtain 85-90% of the improvement gained by fitting 'audiophile' fuses

    Marco.
    If it has not already been stated , Never open casework with power connected . ** Always pull the power cord out of either the IEC socket or at the wall fitting
    before opening casework *** .
    Place casework back ON and tighten screws before power is applied.

  8. #118
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Wrexham, North Wales, UK

    Posts: 110,012
    I'm AudioAl'sArbiterForPISHANTO.

    Default

    Spot on, Chris, and very sensible advice indeed!!

    Marco.
    Main System

    Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & reg mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat/Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight/Isonoe feet & boots/Ortofon RS-212D/Denon DL-103GL in Denon PCL-300 headshell with Funk Firm Houdini/Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.

    Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp/Denon AU-310 SUT.

    Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.

    CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.

    Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new, by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.

    Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. LDR Stereo Coffee. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.

    Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.

    Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.

    Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.


    Protect your HUMAN RIGHTS and REFUSE ANY *MANDATORY* VACCINE FOR COVID-19!

    Also **SAY NO** to unjust 'vaccine passports' or certificates, which are totally incompatible with a FREE society!!!


  9. #119
    Join Date: Sep 2014

    Location: Northern Ireland

    Posts: 1,403
    I'm John.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Dalek Supreme D L View Post
    + 2

    Hard times
    Brian, Neil,

    thanks, trying to look forward.

    OK to look back but not good to stay there!

  10. #120
    Join Date: Oct 2008

    Location: Glasgowshire

    Posts: 9,663
    I'm Gary.

    Default

    Agree with Marco about cleaning up existing fuses and fuse holders, potentially make a good improvement.
    I did that first and noticed the improvement, thats what got me curious about looking into alternative fuses.

    The SR Black kept coming up as the one to get, not cheap but a 30 day trial meant I could take a punt, hear one for myself.
    Not sure about tbe other fuses. but the SR's were a big jump over even cleaned up and Deoxit'd fuses.
    AC POWER
    Hardwired 10kVA balanced mains powering entire system
    AMPS
    Meridian 557 power Amp (Modded) / PS Audio BHK Preamp (Modded)
    SPEAKERS
    Wharfedale Evo 4.4
    DAC
    PS Audio Directstream (Modded)
    TURNTABLE
    Pro-Ject X8 balanced output via XLR / Ortofon Quintet Blue cartridge
    PHONOSTAGE
    Pro-Ject DS3 B balanced Input (TT and Phonostage powered by Pro-Ject Power box RS2 linear psu)
    DIGITAL
    OPPO 203 (Modded: Linear PSU, i2s output to Dac) - Roon Endpoint, HDMI input used for all things Streaming/ PS5 /AppleTV ... also good for movies apparently?
    MUSIC PLAYBACK
    Tweaked AP-Linux based Roon Server into Oppo 203 as Roon endpoint
    Ipad Roon Remote.
    Apple Music/ YouTube via AppleTV, fed to Dac via Oppo HDMI input/i2s output to Dac.
    SPEAKER CABLES
    Biwired: Duelund DCA10GA (Bass) Duelund DCA16GA (mid & treble) Duelund 12DCA used as jumpers (On
    "Blackcat Cable" Chris Sommivigo's advice - yup, even with biwire it sounds better - and it does)
    INTERCONNECTS
    All Balanced: Ghost+ recording studio XLR cables

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