Wasn't gonna post this...

[BilliumB]

Has anyone got a theory to explain firstly why these SR Black fuses are better than 'normal stock fuses' but more importantly how they can be better than a big copper bar as reported by Gaz? I'm intrigued - I'm not doubting Gaz's experience in any way, I just like to get a bit of understanding as to why something might be better before upgrading kit.

Just as an aside, my amp (Conrad Johnson CA200) has 8 fuses (and that doesn't include a plug fuse) so if persuaded it would be a very expensive business! [from the manual: "There are 8 fuses in the CA200. One is the ac power line (mains) fuse. It is located in a fuse holder built into the IEC main power cord receptacle on the back of the amplifier. There are four fuses for the main DC power supplies (two for each channel). These are located on the back of the chassis and are labeled B+ and B-. At the front edge of the main printed circuit board there are two fuses to protect the high-voltage power supplies. Finally, on a small pc board mounted on the front right corner of the chassis (near the main power transformer) is a fuse to protect the control circuit power transformer."] - and that's just the amp!

Cheers. Bill

[Gazjam]

Has anyone got a theory to explain firstly why these SR Black fuses are better than 'normal stock fuses' but more importantly how they can be better than a big copper bar as reported by Gaz? I'm intrigued - I'm not doubting Gaz's experience in any way, I just like to get a bit of understanding as to why something might be better before upgrading kit.

Just as an aside, my amp (Conrad Johnson CA200) has 8 fuses (and that doesn't include a plug fuse) so if persuaded it would be a very expensive business! [from the manual: "There are 8 fuses in the CA200. One is the ac power line (mains) fuse. It is located in a fuse holder built into the IEC main power cord receptacle on the back of the amplifier. There are four fuses for the main DC power supplies (two for each channel). These are located on the back of the chassis and are labeled B+ and B-. At the front edge of the main printed circuit board there are two fuses to protect the high-voltage power supplies. Finally, on a small pc board mounted on the front right corner of the chassis (near the main power transformer) is a fuse to protect the control circuit power transformer."] - and that's just the amp!

Cheers. Bill

Bill,
Have a go at cleaning your fuses and fuse holders see what you think?

I'd like to know myself about the fuse and what it does, but I'm not stressing about it happy to accept what I'm hearing.

The copper bar thing Im not hung up on, was interesting enough though.
No expert but a couple of thoughts about it I posted elsewhere:

*Sorry 'bout 'dat chaps*

[ell-tell]

A fuse will of course Ristrict current, whereas the copper bar, will not! How then could the fuse sound better, this doesn't make any sense.

[montesquieu]

The proof that there is/was no "shilling" will become patently obvious when discussion of this particular tweak runs its course and dies a natural death, which will happen sooner rather than later... As indeed is the case with 95% of such tweaks, with probably no more than half a dozen people in total having been tempted to buy one of the fuses in question [hardly the basis of successful shill or scam], leaving the accuser of such looking once again like a deluded and demented tit!

Marco.

LOL. I guess Marco you were never tempted to start any of these fads yourself of course not .....

I'll get my coat.

[Sovereign]

Chaps, mention was made earlier in the thread about replacing a fuse with a piece of copper bar. If this wasn't said in jest (and I sincerely hope it was), may I implore you all not to go down this route? Whether you think different fuses make a difference or not, the fact is they are there for a reason. To bypass them in this manner is foolish at best and downright dangerous at worst.

Blimey I'm surprised this thread is still going.
I wouldn't ever recommend someone change out the fuse in their equipment for a copper bar especially as some of us run some pretty expensive equipment and none of us would want to see that damaged.
I asked Jerry if he fancied changing the fuse in the mains plug which wasn't even connected to his hi-fi for a copper bar, which is relatively safe unless you have an insatiable need to cut your mains cable and you have a pair of garden shears to hand .

[Gazjam]

A fuse will of course Ristrict current, whereas the copper bar, will not! How then could the fuse sound better, this doesn't make any sense.

Lots of things don't to be fair?
No expert opinion, just some thoughts of a layman who trusts his ears...

Trying to think about my (subjective) results , if I'm reading the discussion correctly the assumption seems to hinge on the copper bar being a 100% conductor (i.e. 'No fuse'?)...so obviously better?

Couple of thoughts...

There certainly wasn't a lot in it for me when I compared the two, but I did have a preference for the fuse, but as I said elsewhere more of a preference than an absolute better/worse.

Maybe on paper it should have been a 'KO'...but given than things dont happen on paper usually could there be other factors?
I'd expected the bar to sound better so genuinely no expectation bias from me.
Scratching my head for possible reasons - what about the copper bar itself?

It had been sitting in a bucket for ages and wasn't in great shape, even after cleaning it.
Trying to offer up an idea...in reality, could the fact that the bar wasn't in perfect condition have made it ACTUALLY act as more of a fuse than the 'no fuse' idea on paper?

I know that just because it's copper doesn't mean its necessarily a 100% perfect conductor?
https://www.properzi.com/literature/...uctivity-of-cu
If not a perfect conductor, with impurities and resistive factors...could this have an audible effect?

Someone has also said somewhere that the fuse 'could' give better results than a copper bar, depending on how it was used and where it was in the circuit.

Just a thought, I'm no expert and definitely go by what I my ears tell me nowadays.

[The Black Adder]

This is one of those strange things in hifi.

Let's just say that in some systems I'd imagine these type of tweaks won't work for some.

What can I say apart from 'Shakti' of which I have no experience with, or even Bybee's. Both of those things seem more 'far out' than a fuse for some reason. But... I'd give them a go or at least hear what other people say.

To believe is to try it for yourself.

Now... where's my wand.

BTW... I'm currently running my system through a Nick Gorham DC Blocker... sounds superb.

[anthonyTD]

Bump.

Jez,
I too have comented on this in past threads relating to upgrade fuses.
And I agree with most of what you have written here, the only reason a fuse could posibly have any affect over another is due to its resistance, or posible bottle neck affect to large instantaneous current swings.
Now, as you quite rightly stated; a fuse is designed to be the weakest link in the chain, it is meant to go before anything else; ie; tracks, wiring etc.
My own personal findings with these fuses; to have any affect, is; that they cannot be the same rating as a standard like for like fuse, and therefore have lower resistance, which inturn in some equipment would relate similarly to what Alan [Firebottle] was sugesting, ie; removing the fuse all together, and replacing it temporarily with a thick piece of wire, and I am with alan on this, as I am sure it would have the same desired affect.
Unfortunetly though, in both cases, ie; the upgraded fuse, and the piece of wire, the equipment in question would no longer posses the same level of safety, as it had with the original standard fuse fitted [of this I am certain going on past experience]
I have witnessed this first hand, and have seen with my own eyes the damage these types of fuses can cause in certain types of equipment, when they failed to do their job!
Yes, as with many things Audio, I do believe that such things can have a sonic affect, THIS IS THE PART WHERE Jez and I will mostly always disagree, but we are both grown ups, and I am sure we will always have the respect for each other to agree to disagree on such matters.
All I am saying is; be careful where you fit these things, and if they are in bits of kit that you tend to leave on 24/7, my advice would be ; turn the kit off when not in use!

[Gazjam]

This is one of those strange things in hifi.

Let's just say that in some systems I'd imagine these type of tweaks won't work for some.

What can I say apart from 'Shakti' of which I have no experience with, or even Bybee's. Both of those things seem more 'far out' than a fuse for some reason. But... I'd give them a go or at least hear what other people say.

To believe is to try it for yourself.

Now... where's my wand.

BTW... I'm currently running my system through a Nick Gorham DC Blocker... sounds superb.

Sorcery!

[The Black Adder]

Sorcery!

LOL... Well, everyone knows Nick is a Wizard and not of this earth.