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Thread: Wasn't gonna post this...

  1. #291
    Join Date: May 2012

    Location: Maidstone

    Posts: 977
    I'm James.

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    Really interesting findings Jerry, I know your not into DIY as such but would you be willing to solder a copper bar in place where the fancy fuse is? I understand Garry not wanting to do this for fear of trashing his equipment, but as your new fuse is only in a wall plug which isn't actually directly attached to your equipment there is no risk as such? I would do it myself but I don't have any fuses in my mains .
    Source: Heavily modified DDDAC using MacBook Pro.
    Amplification: Pre amp-Stereo Coffee pre amp on steroids.
    Power amp- Rather large Colin Wonfor Class A power Amp
    Speakers: Lampizator P17 Open Baffles
    Accessories: Klotz 500 DIY Interconnects & DIY speaker cable sounding better than anything commercial.
    All powered from a Mother Trucker BPS with a dedicated consumer unit with 10mm armoured radial back to the house tails after the meter.

  2. #292
    Join Date: Mar 2014

    Location: KY - Scotland

    Posts: 5,465
    I'm Mike.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ali Tait View Post
    Yep good post Paul.

    Interesting Jerry has the same findings as Gaz.
    Ali,

    There's a fancy fuse in that MCRU Linear PSU you bought from me, or there should be, it was sold to me supposedly with one already fitted although I never checked.

    Might be an idea for you to try it in something else, see if it does anything for your system.

  3. #293
    Join Date: May 2012

    Location: Toulouse, France

    Posts: 6,562
    I'm Kevin.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jandl100 View Post
    Fancy mains cables? yes. The cable / plug concerned is a Missing Link Cryo Reference.

    How many other fuses? - well, I am now looking askance at cables feeding pre & power amps and DAC. Those being the main components in my system.
    How about the internal fuses?
    This is going to cost a packet....
    Kevin

    Too busy enjoying the music....

    European loan coordinator for Graham Slee HiFi system components..

  4. #294
    Join Date: Oct 2008

    Location: Glasgowshire

    Posts: 9,656
    I'm Gary.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jandl100 View Post
    Whoosh.

    My £90 SR Black fuse has arrived.
    Blimey, the improvement is not subtle.
    Putting the old fuse back and the improvements in image focus and presence, resolution, and the sheer improved organisation of the soundstage went away.
    SR Black back in - and improvements back as well.

    This is one refund option that will most certainly not be taken up!

    It's supposed to 'run in', well maybe, I'll see.

    I've placed the fuse in the wall plug that feeds a mains block that feeds the whole system.
    Where next for my next one .... ?

    Thanks Gaz, good spot.
    Good stuff Jerry, glad it works for you.
    Hear similar across the board improvement here too, moreso the one my Preamp, which is interesting.

    I've only fitted internal case fuses to my Transporter and my Densen Pre, only the one external 13A plug used nowadays.
    Good to know it works in that application too, maybe one for the future.
    Always internal case fuses Jerry if you take a punt?

    Be interested in what you think once they have a few days on them.
    AC POWER
    Hardwired 10kVA balanced mains powering entire system
    AMPS
    Meridian 557 power Amp (Modded) / PS Audio BHK Preamp (Modded)
    SPEAKERS
    Wharfedale Evo 4.4
    DAC
    PS Audio Directstream (Modded)
    TURNTABLE
    Pro-Ject X8 balanced output via XLR / Ortofon Quintet Blue cartridge
    PHONOSTAGE
    Pro-Ject DS3 B balanced Input (TT and Phonostage powered by Pro-Ject Power box RS2 linear psu)
    DIGITAL
    OPPO 203 (Modded: Linear PSU, i2s output to Dac) - Roon Endpoint, HDMI input used for all things Streaming/ PS5 /AppleTV ... also good for movies apparently?
    MUSIC PLAYBACK
    Tweaked AP-Linux based Roon Server into Oppo 203 as Roon endpoint
    Ipad Roon Remote.
    Apple Music/ YouTube via AppleTV, fed to Dac via Oppo HDMI input/i2s output to Dac.
    SPEAKER CABLES
    Biwired: Duelund DCA10GA (Bass) Duelund DCA16GA (mid & treble) Duelund 12DCA used as jumpers (On
    "Blackcat Cable" Chris Sommivigo's advice - yup, even with biwire it sounds better - and it does)
    INTERCONNECTS
    All Balanced: Ghost+ recording studio XLR cables

  5. #295
    Join Date: Oct 2008

    Location: Glasgowshire

    Posts: 9,656
    I'm Gary.

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    Quote Originally Posted by CageyH View Post
    How about the internal fuses?
    This is going to cost a packet....
    Thats what I've done.
    Only 4 more to go!!
    AC POWER
    Hardwired 10kVA balanced mains powering entire system
    AMPS
    Meridian 557 power Amp (Modded) / PS Audio BHK Preamp (Modded)
    SPEAKERS
    Wharfedale Evo 4.4
    DAC
    PS Audio Directstream (Modded)
    TURNTABLE
    Pro-Ject X8 balanced output via XLR / Ortofon Quintet Blue cartridge
    PHONOSTAGE
    Pro-Ject DS3 B balanced Input (TT and Phonostage powered by Pro-Ject Power box RS2 linear psu)
    DIGITAL
    OPPO 203 (Modded: Linear PSU, i2s output to Dac) - Roon Endpoint, HDMI input used for all things Streaming/ PS5 /AppleTV ... also good for movies apparently?
    MUSIC PLAYBACK
    Tweaked AP-Linux based Roon Server into Oppo 203 as Roon endpoint
    Ipad Roon Remote.
    Apple Music/ YouTube via AppleTV, fed to Dac via Oppo HDMI input/i2s output to Dac.
    SPEAKER CABLES
    Biwired: Duelund DCA10GA (Bass) Duelund DCA16GA (mid & treble) Duelund 12DCA used as jumpers (On
    "Blackcat Cable" Chris Sommivigo's advice - yup, even with biwire it sounds better - and it does)
    INTERCONNECTS
    All Balanced: Ghost+ recording studio XLR cables

  6. #296
    Join Date: May 2012

    Location: Toulouse, France

    Posts: 6,562
    I'm Kevin.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Firebottle View Post
    OK daftee, keep your keks on. I have just been doing the test whilst you were posting the last couple.

    My CD player, of quite a number of years use, has never had the fuse changed. It is a T1A.
    On opening the little slide fuse carrier I found that the manufacturer had included a spare in the second 'chamber'.

    So I have two fuses of the same vintage, one having been used and the other not.

    Resistance test results:

    USED 0.138 ohms
    NEW 0.132 ohms

    I then got all the new/unused T1A fuse out of my spares draw and tested them:

    0.086
    0.132
    0.089
    0.116
    0.134
    0.138
    0.089
    0.140
    0.158
    0.093
    0.147
    0.092
    0.112

    So in this instance I would say no degradation from use. The CD player is a Naim with quite a large toroidal mains transformer in it.

    Does it sound better with a lower resistance fuse fitted?
    Kevin

    Too busy enjoying the music....

    European loan coordinator for Graham Slee HiFi system components..

  7. #297
    Join Date: May 2009

    Location: gone away

    Posts: 4,870
    I'm joe.

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    Well, I'm not going to arse around with fuses, but the problem with the "I took out the fancy fuse and replaced it with the bog-standard one and it sounded shite" approach is that you know which fuse is which. The only way of knowing if you're actually hearing a difference is for someone else to do the swapping without telling you which fuse they're putting in.

  8. #298
    Join Date: Aug 2009

    Location: Staffordshire, England

    Posts: 37,786
    I'm Martin.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Joe View Post
    Well, I'm not going to arse around with fuses, but the problem with the "I took out the fancy fuse and replaced it with the bog-standard one and it sounded shite" approach is that you know which fuse is which. The only way of knowing if you're actually hearing a difference is for someone else to do the swapping without telling you which fuse they're putting in.
    All very well but why is this test required if the difference is not subtle? Should we do this for everything? Do I need to do a blind test between my JM Lab speakers and my Akai speakers just in case they actually sound identical and I am just imagining a difference? Should I blind test my Technics deck against my plasticky old Phillips effort? Where do we draw the line?

    Simple rule to negate that hassle: If you make the change and are sat there thinking 'hmm, is that better?' whilst listening intently, then it is no better. When it is better you don't ponder about it or have to listen out for it.
    Current Lash Up:

    TEAC VRDS 701T > Sony TAE1000ESD > Krell KSA50S > JM Labs Focal Electra 926.

  9. #299
    Join Date: May 2009

    Location: gone away

    Posts: 4,870
    I'm joe.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Macca View Post
    All very well but why is this test required if the difference is not subtle? Should we do this for everything? Do I need to do a blind test between my JM Lab speakers and my Akai speakers just in case they actually sound identical and I am just imagining a difference? Should I blind test my Technics deck against my plasticky old Phillips effort? Where do we draw the line?

    Simple rule to negate that hassle: If you make the change and are sat there thinking 'hmm, is that better?' whilst listening intently, then it is no better. When it is better you don't ponder about it or have to listen out for it.
    It's just that people say 'I know the difference was real because I swapped out new for old and everything was ruined', as if that 'proved' anything. It doesn't. (I should add that I don't do any of this swapping about malarkey myself being a lazy-arsed slacker).

  10. #300
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: gone

    Posts: 11,519
    I'm gone.

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    Well, I'm not at all keen on flushing £90 down the pan for no good reason if it would just cost me a few £ in postage to return for a refund.
    I was quite keen to get the "no difference" or "made it worse " result.
    Sadly, it was not to be.

    Internal fuses ... hmm. Trouble is the fuse type is often specific to the kit, and for a box swapper like me that doesn't make a lot of sense.

    And no, James/sov, no soldering of copper bars for me.
    .

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