Can someone post up a detailed pick of the end caps on these fuses, [where the letters and numbers are denoting the Amperage etc] I have a hunch.
A...
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I'm Rick.
It is impossible for anything digital to sound analogue, because it isn't analogue!
I don't know that I've heard of anyone taking complete measurements of an amp, then installing these fuses, and then conducting the same measurements on that amp? They could alter the slew rate? Or some other measurement of speed, or frequency, or current delivery. But, if I had to guess, I'd say it would show up in the slew rate. A fuse doesn't act as an amperage filter, it breaks when it gets hot, and they calculate that if say, 5 amps flows through this tiny wire it will cause it to heat up to the point of breaking, but no one questions how quickly it can go from zero to 5 amps? One would think it could happen instantly? But I doubt that's the case. Due to its small size it would have a rise time, would it not? So, whether or not a fuse makes a measurable difference could depend on what you are measuring?
But apparently everyone is not impressed, otherwise makers of expensive gear would be installing them at the factory?
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I see that line of reasoning trotted out now and then, and I really don't think it usually applies.
Cost competitiveness is an issue at all price levels.
You rarely see high end gear sold with high end power cables, for instance. And yet many folks (me included) consider that kit benefits from this.
Lots of other examples of 'cost cutting' or at least rrp awareness at all price levels.
So the fact that fancy fuses aren't included means little, I think.
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I'm Dennis.
In the case of conventional power supplies the capacitors hold most of the charge which will be demanded by current peaks, and this is a low Z source, the fuse passing a relatively constant current to fill up these reservoir caps.
It is therefore rather unlikely that a fuse will impose a significant 'signature' on the proceedings, and I'm open to my ears telling me differently, but I doubt that anything would be measurable.
I've not studied switching power supplies, but they seem to be based around cost cutting, and spew out a lot of RF crap.
Power cables; all I do is ensure that the 'kettle' end has copper beryllium contacts, and squash them with a toolmakers clamp through the outer plastic to ensure they tightly grip the pins, and that the cable is high current, usually RS ones.
The only fuses I have are in the distribution boards, (previous post), I/C 13A plugs, or any the equipment has itself.
In addition to MK filtered outlets, I have my own mains filter, which after discussion with RA when buying the caps, he then introduced with a VDR as his own plug-in wall wart filter selling for £70. (Silencer).
Mine is just three 0.1 microfarad 1000V caps across the three mains terminals.
Do not use RS 400V ones, I had these explode when my kettle went s/cct, and caused a current surge 20' away.
Speaker cables; with the ESS speakers I tried 2nd hand Concert Cable 3, 2.5mm, OK, QED Silver Anniversary, and it was toppy, Kimber 4TC which was more neutral, and K 8TC which screwed the top completely and boosted the bass several dB.
I returned all RA cables and bought Ecosse 3.5 which is good, but I am sceptical about it all.
Last edited by Pharos; 21-03-2017 at 15:26. Reason: Tidying
430 posts later and it's back to my original post ...available on a 30 day trial folks.
I have them throughout my system now and I've heard a noticable substantial improvement (though to lesser or greater degrees) wherever I've put them.
The cumulative effect is mire than woth the money spent.
If curious at all save yourself the hand wringing and gnashing of teeth and hear 'em for yourself at no financial risk.
Dave at MCRU does 'em as does Analogue Seduction and others.
Or not, thats up to you.
But, seriously (as Frank Zappa said) its all about the music...if your curious hear em for yourself and 'stop dancing about architecture.'
AC POWER
Hardwired 10kVA balanced mains powering entire system
AMPS
Meridian 557 power Amp (Modded) / PS Audio BHK Preamp (Modded)
SPEAKERS
Wharfedale Evo 4.4
DAC
PS Audio Directstream (Modded)
TURNTABLE
Pro-Ject X8 balanced output via XLR / Ortofon Quintet Blue cartridge
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Pro-Ject DS3 B balanced Input (TT and Phonostage powered by Pro-Ject Power box RS2 linear psu)
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OPPO 203 (Modded: Linear PSU, i2s output to Dac) - Roon Endpoint, HDMI input used for all things Streaming/ PS5 /AppleTV ... also good for movies apparently?
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Ipad Roon Remote.
Apple Music/ YouTube via AppleTV, fed to Dac via Oppo HDMI input/i2s output to Dac.
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Biwired: Duelund DCA10GA (Bass) Duelund DCA16GA (mid & treble) Duelund 12DCA used as jumpers (On "Blackcat Cable" Chris Sommivigo's advice - yup, even with biwire it sounds better - and it does)
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All Balanced: Ghost+ recording studio XLR cables