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Thread: Musical Fidelity MC6 speakers

  1. #11
    Join Date: Mar 2017

    Location: Seaford UK

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    I'm Dennis.

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    You or he?

  2. #12
    Join Date: Apr 2017

    Location: Cheshire UK

    Posts: 114
    I'm Martin.

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    Having heard and sold the MC2s, I would tend to agree with everyone that gives a nowt special alert.

  3. #13
    Join Date: Apr 2017

    Location: London UK

    Posts: 10
    I'm Marcus.

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    I like the MC6s which suit my kind of music I listen to, just need make my pair bi-wireable, but I don't know how..

  4. #14
    Join Date: Apr 2012

    Location: Southall, West London

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    I'm Geoff.

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    Quote Originally Posted by barbieboy View Post
    I like the MC6s which suit my kind of music I listen to, just need make my pair bi-wireable, but I don't know how..
    Assuming they are two way. You could try an active crossover between the pre-amp and power amps and do away with the internal crossover in the speakers, just leaving a single series capacitor in line with the tweeter as protection against LF intrusion.
    Mr. Tact!

    Main system: MMs/ADCs/Low output MC's/One rare Japanese SUT/One scarce British phono stage/various tonearms/hefty Japanese DD TT and hefty Japanese BD TT and small British BD TT. 4 CD players/2 jitter buster/2 DACs/Valve buffer. TVC stepped attenuator or valve pre-amp or solid state pre-amp. Current dumping power-amp or either of two Class A SS power-amp or Class A EL34 valve monos or big Japanese (part Class A) integrated. Big dual concentric speakers/Smaller dual concentric speakers/Two way British compacts and full range speakers, amongst others. And too much more to list!

  5. #15
    Join Date: Apr 2017

    Location: London UK

    Posts: 10
    I'm Marcus.

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    Quote Originally Posted by walpurgis View Post
    Assuming they are two way. You could try an active crossover between the pre-amp and power amps and do away with the internal crossover in the speakers, just leaving a single series capacitor in line with the tweeter as protection against LF intrusion.
    Yes 2 way, but I use my AVR as a DAC - AMP which the front channels can be biamped. Breaking my heart having these channels going unused !

  6. #16
    Join Date: Oct 2012

    Location: NE England

    Posts: 4,385
    I'm Jez.

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    Quote Originally Posted by barbieboy View Post
    Hi Jez, how tricky would it be to turn an early single posts pair into a bi-wirable pair for bi-amping ? The Highs went through and extra cap on the + (see pic) but I don't know what the - did as under the xover in this old pic I've managed to find. Hope you can shed some light !
    Not difficult if you know what you're doing... probably quite difficult if you have to ask how to do it! A waste of time all round though.
    Arkless Electronics-Engineered to be better. Tel. 01670 530674 (after 1pm)

    Modded Thorens TD150, Audio Technica AT-1005 MkII, Technics EPC-300MC, Arkless Hybrid MC phono stage, Arkless passive pre, Arkless 50WPC Class A SS power amp, (or) Arkless modded Leak Stereo 20, Modded Kef Reference 105/3's
    ReVox PR99, Studer B62, Ferrograph Series 7, Tandberg TCD440, Hitachi FT-5500MkI, also FT-5500MkII
    Digital: Yamaha CDR-HD1500 (Digital Swiss army knife-CD recorder, player, hard drive, DAC and ADC in one), PC files via 24/96 sound card and SPDIF, modded Philips CD850, modded Philips CD104, modded DPA Little Bit DAC. Sennheiser HD580 cans with Arkless Headphone amp.
    Cables- free interconnects that come with CD players, mains leads from B&Q, dead kettles etc, extension leads from Tesco

  7. #17
    Join Date: Oct 2012

    Location: NE England

    Posts: 4,385
    I'm Jez.

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    Quote Originally Posted by walpurgis View Post
    Assuming they are two way. You could try an active crossover between the pre-amp and power amps and do away with the internal crossover in the speakers, just leaving a single series capacitor in line with the tweeter as protection against LF intrusion.
    Indeed yes. It could probably be done for as little as 4000 and 2 months work as well!
    Arkless Electronics-Engineered to be better. Tel. 01670 530674 (after 1pm)

    Modded Thorens TD150, Audio Technica AT-1005 MkII, Technics EPC-300MC, Arkless Hybrid MC phono stage, Arkless passive pre, Arkless 50WPC Class A SS power amp, (or) Arkless modded Leak Stereo 20, Modded Kef Reference 105/3's
    ReVox PR99, Studer B62, Ferrograph Series 7, Tandberg TCD440, Hitachi FT-5500MkI, also FT-5500MkII
    Digital: Yamaha CDR-HD1500 (Digital Swiss army knife-CD recorder, player, hard drive, DAC and ADC in one), PC files via 24/96 sound card and SPDIF, modded Philips CD850, modded Philips CD104, modded DPA Little Bit DAC. Sennheiser HD580 cans with Arkless Headphone amp.
    Cables- free interconnects that come with CD players, mains leads from B&Q, dead kettles etc, extension leads from Tesco

  8. #18
    Join Date: Apr 2012

    Location: Southall, West London

    Posts: 26,936
    I'm Geoff.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Arkless Electronics View Post
    Indeed yes. It could probably be done for as little as 4000 and 2 months work as well!
    Or eighty quid from ebay. Plenty of active crossovers there.
    Mr. Tact!

    Main system: MMs/ADCs/Low output MC's/One rare Japanese SUT/One scarce British phono stage/various tonearms/hefty Japanese DD TT and hefty Japanese BD TT and small British BD TT. 4 CD players/2 jitter buster/2 DACs/Valve buffer. TVC stepped attenuator or valve pre-amp or solid state pre-amp. Current dumping power-amp or either of two Class A SS power-amp or Class A EL34 valve monos or big Japanese (part Class A) integrated. Big dual concentric speakers/Smaller dual concentric speakers/Two way British compacts and full range speakers, amongst others. And too much more to list!

  9. #19
    Join Date: Apr 2017

    Location: London UK

    Posts: 10
    I'm Marcus.

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    Surely it can't be that tricky to separate the tweeters ? But putting my ears up to the cones these speakers are a 3 way design

  10. #20
    Join Date: Oct 2012

    Location: NE England

    Posts: 4,385
    I'm Jez.

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    Quote Originally Posted by walpurgis View Post
    Or eighty quid from ebay. Plenty of active crossovers there.
    And it will sound utter shite! Any crossover must be designed specifically for the speaker it is being used in, therefore each one is a separate design exercise with all the experimenting, measuring and listening involved. Hence the 4K (if you are paying an engineer to do it for you) and 2 months work... to do the job properly.
    Arkless Electronics-Engineered to be better. Tel. 01670 530674 (after 1pm)

    Modded Thorens TD150, Audio Technica AT-1005 MkII, Technics EPC-300MC, Arkless Hybrid MC phono stage, Arkless passive pre, Arkless 50WPC Class A SS power amp, (or) Arkless modded Leak Stereo 20, Modded Kef Reference 105/3's
    ReVox PR99, Studer B62, Ferrograph Series 7, Tandberg TCD440, Hitachi FT-5500MkI, also FT-5500MkII
    Digital: Yamaha CDR-HD1500 (Digital Swiss army knife-CD recorder, player, hard drive, DAC and ADC in one), PC files via 24/96 sound card and SPDIF, modded Philips CD850, modded Philips CD104, modded DPA Little Bit DAC. Sennheiser HD580 cans with Arkless Headphone amp.
    Cables- free interconnects that come with CD players, mains leads from B&Q, dead kettles etc, extension leads from Tesco

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