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Thread: Opinions on Tribute SUTs

  1. #51
    Join Date: Nov 2008

    Location: belgrade serbia

    Posts: 840
    I'm gordan.

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    Quote Originally Posted by sjs View Post
    If we go back to the question asked by the OP, I would say that if you can get Tribute SUTs designed for your MC cart, then get them and you will not be disappointed.
    Exactly, just as with some other top end manufacturers, such as Intact Audio who can wind a perfectly matched product for your favorite cartridge and is inexpensive (compared to how it sounds). I would also expect that Lundahl can do a custom job if you cant get an off shelf solution (though I would avoid their products for a direct comparison with top level head-amps, Lundahl SUTs actually sound too much like a head amp themselves )
    Gordan.
    Speakers: Oris Swing MkII
    Amps: Thomas Mayer 300b/ Hiraga La Maison de L'Audiophile 20
    Preamp: Silver AVC by eng. Ferenc Lazar
    Phono Preamp: Shishido LCR by Solaja Audio
    Decks: Garrard 301 Martin Bastin reworked/plinthed with Fidelity Research FR64fx
    Garrard 401 in eng Ferenc Lazar solid wenge plinth with SME 3012/2
    Cartridges: SPU Spirit/ Koetsu Black revisited by eng. Salai/ Miyajima Shilabe
    Step Up Transformers: Tango MCT 999/ Ortofon T-5000/ Lumiere SUT
    Digital: Shigaclone by eng. Ferenc Lazar with Lampizator Amber II
    Wires: of sufficient length

  2. #52
    Join Date: Oct 2012

    Location: NE England

    Posts: 4,173
    I'm Jez.

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    Another step up option is of course the valve head amp. I made one and used it for a couple of years, 4 triodes in parallel per channel. VERY good sound but rather impractical for all but the really keen as only the lowest noise samples of valves available can be used.... A valve which seems totally quiet in an MM phono stage can hiss and crackle like hell when used in this sensitive an application! I got sick of trying to keep it in valves which were quiet enough in the end.... A good set could start to go off and produce rustling sounds etc sometimes in as little as a week or two after fitting them
    I have heard that some disc seal microwave triodes can be much more reliable and quieter in this application but I haven't tried them myself, mine used 4 x ECC88.

    It seems a non starter as a commercial product on the grounds that one cannot really sell a valve head amp to someone with the caveat that "although the unit itself is guaranteed for 10 years I can't guarantee the valves for even a week and you are on your own on the valve front"....
    Arkless Electronics-Engineered to be better. Tel. 01670 530674 (after 1pm)

    Modded Thorens TD150, Audio Technica AT-1005 MkII, Technics EPC-300MC, Arkless Hybrid MC phono stage, Arkless passive pre, Arkless 50WPC Class A SS power amp, (or) Arkless modded Leak Stereo 20, Modded Kef Reference 105/3's
    ReVox PR99, Studer B62, Ferrograph Series 7, Tandberg TCD440, Hitachi FT-5500MkI, also FT-5500MkII
    Digital: Yamaha CDR-HD1500 (Digital Swiss army knife-CD recorder, player, hard drive, DAC and ADC in one), PC files via 24/96 sound card and SPDIF, modded Philips CD850, modded Philips CD104, modded DPA Little Bit DAC. Sennheiser HD580 cans with Arkless Headphone amp.
    Cables- free interconnects that come with CD players, mains leads from B&Q, dead kettles etc, extension leads from Tesco

  3. #53
    Join Date: Jan 2016

    Location: Shenfield

    Posts: 574
    I'm Slav.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Arkless Electronics View Post
    A valve which seems totally quiet in an MM phono stage can hiss and crackle like hell when used in this sensitive an application! I got sick of trying to keep it in valves which were quiet enough in the end.... A good set could start to go off and produce rustling sounds etc sometimes in as little as a week or two after fitting them
    From my experience with Ecc88 keeping heater-cathode voltage fairly low helped to reduce all crackling and rustling noises to minimum , did you try to elevate heaters

  4. #54
    montesquieu Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by Arkless Electronics View Post
    Another step up option is of course the valve head amp. I made one and used it for a couple of years, 4 triodes in parallel per channel. VERY good sound but rather impractical for all but the really keen as only the lowest noise samples of valves available can be used.... A valve which seems totally quiet in an MM phono stage can hiss and crackle like hell when used in this sensitive an application! I got sick of trying to keep it in valves which were quiet enough in the end.... A good set could start to go off and produce rustling sounds etc sometimes in as little as a week or two after fitting them
    I have heard that some disc seal microwave triodes can be much more reliable and quieter in this application but I haven't tried them myself, mine used 4 x ECC88.

    It seems a non starter as a commercial product on the grounds that one cannot really sell a valve head amp to someone with the caveat that "although the unit itself is guaranteed for 10 years I can't guarantee the valves for even a week and you are on your own on the valve front"....
    You just reminded me, I had an Audion two-box valve head amp for a while, pricey it was too ... gain was high on it but my word it was dynamic.

    Just as you say though Jez it was noisy (hiss rather than rustle) but to be fair I think part of that was due to the sheer amount of gain it was pushing.

  5. #55
    Join Date: Oct 2012

    Location: NE England

    Posts: 4,173
    I'm Jez.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mac72 View Post
    From my experience with Ecc88 keeping heater-cathode voltage fairly low helped to reduce all crackling and rustling noises to minimum , did you try to elevate heaters
    Heater to cathode was just a couple of volts... it wasn't cascoded.
    Arkless Electronics-Engineered to be better. Tel. 01670 530674 (after 1pm)

    Modded Thorens TD150, Audio Technica AT-1005 MkII, Technics EPC-300MC, Arkless Hybrid MC phono stage, Arkless passive pre, Arkless 50WPC Class A SS power amp, (or) Arkless modded Leak Stereo 20, Modded Kef Reference 105/3's
    ReVox PR99, Studer B62, Ferrograph Series 7, Tandberg TCD440, Hitachi FT-5500MkI, also FT-5500MkII
    Digital: Yamaha CDR-HD1500 (Digital Swiss army knife-CD recorder, player, hard drive, DAC and ADC in one), PC files via 24/96 sound card and SPDIF, modded Philips CD850, modded Philips CD104, modded DPA Little Bit DAC. Sennheiser HD580 cans with Arkless Headphone amp.
    Cables- free interconnects that come with CD players, mains leads from B&Q, dead kettles etc, extension leads from Tesco

  6. #56
    Join Date: Jan 2009

    Location: Essex

    Posts: 31,976
    I'm openingabottleofwine.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Infinitely Baffled View Post
    ....... But can't we have more moderate rhetoric, for heaven's sake? There seems to be something about online forums that brings out the suburban warrior in a lot of folks. It's not uncommon to read posts talking about how "my amp kills amp XZ", or "I heard a [insert name] system at a friend's house, and my system stamped all over it". It's a hobby for Pete's sake! Making comparisons is fine, and in fact it's a large part of what we like about forums. But we don't need playground warfare.
    IB
    Thoroughly agree with you there Gary.

    We all hear differently - my ears are not the same as yours, and we all have different priorities with what we want from our systems: tonal accuracy, dynamics, transparancy, lack of colouration, leading edge attack, 'black' silences, 'atmosphere', 'air', lack of grain, resolution of low level detail, 'musicality', accurate soundstaging, focus, etc. etc. .... . How we get there will obviously vary from one system to another, depending on those priorities - there is no one system that gets it all right It's all a matter of taste, not of being 'right or wrong'.

    Whenever I read a strongly worded post of the kind you mentioned, I always mentally prefix it with the words "in my opinion", as that is exactly what it is - an opinion.
    Barry

  7. #57
    Join Date: Oct 2012

    Location: NE England

    Posts: 4,173
    I'm Jez.

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    Quote Originally Posted by montesquieu View Post
    You just reminded me, I had an Audion two-box valve head amp for a while, pricey it was too ... gain was high on it but my word it was dynamic.

    Just as you say though Jez it was noisy (hiss rather than rustle) but to be fair I think part of that was due to the sheer amount of gain it was pushing.
    Ahhhh... the opposite in fact As it's so hissy, the gain needs to be pushed up to make sure that at the volume control setting you are using in practice, the volume is high enough that you don't get bothered by the hiss

    very low noise electronics is tricky but rewarding and gain structure is very important here. Your valve head amp would have been almost certainly a single stage topology and basically it is not going to amplify its own noise too much... so we are left with a set amount of noise present.. the more we can amplify the signal to be above this noise floor, the greater the signal to noise ratio. Hence also why my MC only phono stges can give much lower noise still compared to my best stand alone head amps going into a MM stage... all gain structure
    Arkless Electronics-Engineered to be better. Tel. 01670 530674 (after 1pm)

    Modded Thorens TD150, Audio Technica AT-1005 MkII, Technics EPC-300MC, Arkless Hybrid MC phono stage, Arkless passive pre, Arkless 50WPC Class A SS power amp, (or) Arkless modded Leak Stereo 20, Modded Kef Reference 105/3's
    ReVox PR99, Studer B62, Ferrograph Series 7, Tandberg TCD440, Hitachi FT-5500MkI, also FT-5500MkII
    Digital: Yamaha CDR-HD1500 (Digital Swiss army knife-CD recorder, player, hard drive, DAC and ADC in one), PC files via 24/96 sound card and SPDIF, modded Philips CD850, modded Philips CD104, modded DPA Little Bit DAC. Sennheiser HD580 cans with Arkless Headphone amp.
    Cables- free interconnects that come with CD players, mains leads from B&Q, dead kettles etc, extension leads from Tesco

  8. #58
    Join Date: Oct 2012

    Location: NE England

    Posts: 4,173
    I'm Jez.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Barry View Post
    Thoroughly agree with you there Gary.

    We all hear differently - my ears are not the same as yours, and we all have different priorities with what we want from our systems: tonal accuracy, dynamics, transparancy, lack of colouration, leading edge attack, 'black' silences, 'atmosphere', 'air', lack of grain, resolution of low level detail, 'musicality', accurate soundstaging, focus, etc. etc. .... . How we get there will obviously vary from one system to another, depending on those priorities - there is no one system that gets it all right It's all a matter of taste, not of being 'right or wrong'.

    Whenever I read a strongly worded post of the kind you mentioned, I always mentally prefix it with the words "in my opinion", as that is exactly what it is - an opinion.
    Good post...
    Arkless Electronics-Engineered to be better. Tel. 01670 530674 (after 1pm)

    Modded Thorens TD150, Audio Technica AT-1005 MkII, Technics EPC-300MC, Arkless Hybrid MC phono stage, Arkless passive pre, Arkless 50WPC Class A SS power amp, (or) Arkless modded Leak Stereo 20, Modded Kef Reference 105/3's
    ReVox PR99, Studer B62, Ferrograph Series 7, Tandberg TCD440, Hitachi FT-5500MkI, also FT-5500MkII
    Digital: Yamaha CDR-HD1500 (Digital Swiss army knife-CD recorder, player, hard drive, DAC and ADC in one), PC files via 24/96 sound card and SPDIF, modded Philips CD850, modded Philips CD104, modded DPA Little Bit DAC. Sennheiser HD580 cans with Arkless Headphone amp.
    Cables- free interconnects that come with CD players, mains leads from B&Q, dead kettles etc, extension leads from Tesco

  9. #59
    Join Date: Dec 2015

    Location: Alicante. Spain.

    Posts: 1,885
    I'm Adrian.

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    How would anyone compare a top line Paul Hynes custom build to going the SUT route. After speaking to him he could build specifically for the shilabe....
    Weighing up options...
    Adey

    In perpetual pursuit.
    Technics SP10 mk2
    Jan Allaerts MC 1 Boron mk1 cart
    Miyajima Shilabe cart
    Hashimoto HM-X SUT
    Siggwan (gimballed not unipivot) Cocobola 12"
    Aurorasound Vida LCR Phonostage
    The Truth linestage
    Dave Slagle Autoformer Volume Controller
    Cary 805c SET amps
    Audio Note ANe-SPX speakers
    Townshend Isolda speaker cables
    Cardas Golden Presence interconnects

  10. #60
    Join Date: Oct 2012

    Location: NE England

    Posts: 4,173
    I'm Jez.

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    Quote Originally Posted by farflungstar View Post
    How would anyone compare a top line Paul Hynes custom build to going the SUT route. After speaking to him he could build specifically for the shilabe....
    Weighing up options...
    Adey

    In perpetual pursuit.
    Well that's a bit deflating.... after the amount of input I've put into the thread in trying to vindicate head amps as a suitable rival for SUT's at the top level.... Anyhow mine is suitable for the Shilabe as well and half the price Not that there is anything out of the ordinary about the shilabe to require a head amp to be customised to it according to the specs... pretty standard 0.24mV output (a bit lower than the average but still in the "normal" range) and 16 Ohms internal resistance .... I guess at least if I've piqued interest in high end head amps in general it's a start

    I will say both that Marco did prefer the Hynes (which I'm sure is superb) to mine after trying them both and bought one, (in a long review over the phone from Marco he said mine was the best head amp he'd ever heard,,, until he tried the Hynes about a week later) but also, in defence of my offering, it was the MkI that Marco tried and before it had had further upgrades fitted. Also that, at half the Hynes £1500 price, mine was not fitted with boutique parts etc and so there would be more to come from it there no doubt
    Arkless Electronics-Engineered to be better. Tel. 01670 530674 (after 1pm)

    Modded Thorens TD150, Audio Technica AT-1005 MkII, Technics EPC-300MC, Arkless Hybrid MC phono stage, Arkless passive pre, Arkless 50WPC Class A SS power amp, (or) Arkless modded Leak Stereo 20, Modded Kef Reference 105/3's
    ReVox PR99, Studer B62, Ferrograph Series 7, Tandberg TCD440, Hitachi FT-5500MkI, also FT-5500MkII
    Digital: Yamaha CDR-HD1500 (Digital Swiss army knife-CD recorder, player, hard drive, DAC and ADC in one), PC files via 24/96 sound card and SPDIF, modded Philips CD850, modded Philips CD104, modded DPA Little Bit DAC. Sennheiser HD580 cans with Arkless Headphone amp.
    Cables- free interconnects that come with CD players, mains leads from B&Q, dead kettles etc, extension leads from Tesco

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