Yeah pretty much any high end Japanese tuner from the late '70's to early '80's will be very good. These still represent the state of the art.
Tandberg and Revox very good as well.
As an aside, Valves in tuners make no difference to sound... unless there is a valve audio output stage of course. The radio frequency signal is first converted to an intermediate frequency (usually 10.7MHz but 12.5MHz in Troughline) and only becomes audio at the very last stage of the tuner, the discriminator/detector, which in vintage tuners is usually passive. A Foster-Seeley discriminator is used in the Troughline and many other valve era tuners, the other common circuit being the Ratio Detector (a circuit called a quadrature discriminator is used nowadays). In some cases, including the Leak, an audio output is taken directly from the discriminator to the multiplex output socket and so there is no valve in the audio signal path
Arkless Electronics-Engineered to be better. Tel. 01670 530674 (after 1pm)
Modded Thorens TD150, Audio Technica AT-1005 MkII, Technics EPC-300MC, Arkless Hybrid MC phono stage, Arkless passive pre, Arkless 50WPC Class A SS power amp, (or) Arkless modded Leak Stereo 20, Modded Kef Reference 105/3's
ReVox PR99, Studer B62, Ferrograph Series 7, Tandberg TCD440, Hitachi FT-5500MkI, also FT-5500MkII
Digital: Yamaha CDR-HD1500 (Digital Swiss army knife-CD recorder, player, hard drive, DAC and ADC in one), PC files via 24/96 sound card and SPDIF, modded Philips CD850, modded Philips CD104, modded DPA Little Bit DAC. Sennheiser HD580 cans with Arkless Headphone amp.
Cables- free interconnects that come with CD players, mains leads from B&Q, dead kettles etc, extension leads from Tesco