I've tried Zilplex and Mooks. Both are useless.
Until we get there... just let it flow.
Obviously no matter what/how it sounds one thing it isn't is adding to the accuracy of the reproduced sound and so it is a bad thing.... even if it sounds "good".
It never ceases to amaze me the crackpot ideas some will try and foist on the world of audio... maybe that Buddhist bowl could hold snake oil though... a dab behind the ears before listening....
Arkless Electronics-Engineered to be better. Tel. 01670 530674 (after 1pm)
Modded Thorens TD150, Audio Technica AT-1005 MkII, Technics EPC-300MC, Arkless Hybrid MC phono stage, Arkless passive pre, Arkless 50WPC Class A SS power amp, (or) Arkless modded Leak Stereo 20, Modded Kef Reference 105/3's
ReVox PR99, Studer B62, Ferrograph Series 7, Tandberg TCD440, Hitachi FT-5500MkI, also FT-5500MkII
Digital: Yamaha CDR-HD1500 (Digital Swiss army knife-CD recorder, player, hard drive, DAC and ADC in one), PC files via 24/96 sound card and SPDIF, modded Philips CD850, modded Philips CD104, modded DPA Little Bit DAC. Sennheiser HD580 cans with Arkless Headphone amp.
Cables- free interconnects that come with CD players, mains leads from B&Q, dead kettles etc, extension leads from Tesco
It's not a piece of Hi-Fi equipment and there's no way it can add 'fidelity'!
Main system: MMs/ADCs/Low output MC's/One rare Japanese SUT/One scarce British phono stage/various tonearms/hefty Japanese DD TT and hefty Japanese BD TT and small British BD TT. 4 CD players/2 jitter buster/2 DACs/Valve buffer. TVC stepped attenuator or valve pre-amp or solid state pre-amp. Current dumping power-amp or either of two Class A SS power-amp or Class A EL34 valve monos or big Japanese (part Class A) integrated. Big dual concentric speakers/Smaller dual concentric speakers/Two way British compacts and full range speakers, amongst others. And too much more to list!
Sometimes incompetence is useful. It helps you keep an open mind..... ..... ...... ...... ................... ..... ..... ..... ..... .....
IMUTO TAURUS X4 BATTERY SUPPLY. - RPI2B & AUDIOPHONICS DAC running MOODE 3.1- CHROMECAST2 AUDIO DONGLE - JBE SERIES 3 SLATEDECK & EMOTIVA XPS-1 PHONO - DENON DV2900 & HEAVILY MODDED MF X10v3. - PIONEER SA8100 AMPLIFIER. - WIN10 JRIVER21, SPOTIFY - AUDIO TECHNICA ATH-MSR7 HEADPHONES, KINPS CABLES, SMSL M6 MINIDAC, CHROMECAST AUDIO DONGLE POWERED BY BATTERY PSU - FULL RANGE TWIN & SINGLE TELEFUNKEN's - CARTS.. AT95S, SHURE M55E, JVC MD1029. - RCA CABLES BY BRIAN SPKR CABLES BY MOI HAIR BY MARCO FEET BY ELECTRICBEACH - MAINS REGENERATED BY POWERINSPIRED AND FILTERED BY BELKIN PURAV.
It's a bronze bowl on a stand and it costs over two thousand dollars. Even if it does 'do something' it is still priced outrageously. And I don't want to hear any bollocks about paying for the R&D. Someone who is loaded buy one and we'll pass it around, I'd give it a go. Thing is, even if it does work all it can do is alter the room acoustic and there are a million ways to do that that don't cost the thick end of two large.
Current Lash Up:
Technics SL1200 with Sumiko h/s & Nagaoka MP50 * Firebottle valve MM phono stage * Parasound CDPi1000 * NVA P90SA passive pre / Krell KSA50S Power amp * JM Lab Electra 926 loudspeakers *