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Thread: A new tweak.

  1. #11
    Join Date: Jan 2013

    Location: Birmingham

    Posts: 2,688
    I'm James.

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    Further experimentation with speaker isolation and vibration control resulted in the laminate material now sandwiched between stand and base of speaker.
    [IMG][/IMG]

    This works much more effectively than standing the stand and speaker on the laminate. I have used a tiny bit of blu tack between laminate and stand but not between speaker and laminate.

    [IMG]
    [/IMG]

    Stands are half filled with sand and spiked through to concrete floor with 6mm spikes.

    Immediately there was a large improvement in definition and stability to the sound. It was almost as if the speaker cabinets previously vibrated in an uncontrolled manner and blurred the image of the music as it were. Now I am getting more focus on vocals and instruments. Spacial definition especially deep into the mix is improved and extends further. It is as if the whole sonic picture has been stabilised and cleaned up. Very impressed and will be keeping this tweek in situ permanently as it has had quite a profound effect.

    Now here is the interesting bit. Over Christmas I was looking at one of my favourite sites Analogue Planet and Michael Fremer did a post on Wilson Audio speakers. He posted up a video tour of the Wilson factory including a chat with one of the Wilson techies and remarkably during the interview he had a piece of laminate material not too dissimilar to what I have used, slightly different construction but the same idea. They are looking and may well be using it in their speaker construction!?
    VPI Scout 1.1 / JMW 9T Tonearm / 2M Black /Croft 25R+ / Croft 7 / Spendor SP2

  2. #12
    Join Date: Aug 2009

    Location: Staffordshire, England

    Posts: 15,489
    I'm Martin.

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    Quote Originally Posted by farflungstar View Post
    The problem with filling the bottom of an enclosure is you lose litres and hence change the low end response - this may partially account for the 'tighter' bass after filling. Unless the enclosures are very very heavy cone excursion will create a force on the enclosure and it will move, even subtle shifts can smear sound stage and blur bass. An enclosure must be rigid and unable to move if the driver is going to do its job well. IMO

    Adey

    Sent from my Aquaris E4.5 using Tapatalk
    Mass loading the cabs will change the resonant frequency of the whole, this is more likely to be where the improvement lies. A drive unit moving doesn't generate enough force to actually move the speaker cabinet, unless it is made of cardboard or something.
    Martin



    Current Lash Up:

    Technics SL1200 with Sumiko h/s & Nagaoka MP50 * Firebottle valve MM phono stage * Parasound CDPi1000 * NVA P90SA passive pre / Krell KSA50S Power amp * JM Lab Electra 926 loudspeakers *


  3. #13
    Join Date: Sep 2011

    Location: Kilmarnock, Ayrshire, Scotland

    Posts: 223
    I'm stuart.

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    What's the name of the laminate you're using?

  4. #14
    Join Date: Jan 2013

    Location: Birmingham

    Posts: 2,688
    I'm James.

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    Quote Originally Posted by killie99 View Post
    What's the name of the laminate you're using?
    I don't know as I got it from a friend. I will enquirer a let you know however I must warn you it is not easy to cut. I needed to have mine cut on a table saw with a 2kw motor!
    VPI Scout 1.1 / JMW 9T Tonearm / 2M Black /Croft 25R+ / Croft 7 / Spendor SP2

  5. #15
    Join Date: Dec 2015

    Location: Alicante. Spain.

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    I'm Adrian.

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    The reason speakers are rigidly coupled to stands or floors is precisely to stop them from moving due to excursion - otherwise we could have them suspended by cables from the ceiling - something I tried about 20 years ago and was surprised by the movement generated. Lesson learnt.
    Adey

    Sent from my Aquaris E4.5 using Tapatalk
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  6. #16
    Join Date: Sep 2011

    Location: Kilmarnock, Ayrshire, Scotland

    Posts: 223
    I'm stuart.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jimbo View Post
    I don't know as I got it from a friend. I will enquirer a let you know however I must warn you it is not easy to cut. I needed to have mine cut on a table saw with a 2kw motor!
    Sounds like it's panzerholz although from your pic it doesn't look like it

  7. #17
    Join Date: Aug 2009

    Location: Staffordshire, England

    Posts: 15,489
    I'm Martin.

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    Quote Originally Posted by farflungstar View Post
    The reason speakers are rigidly coupled to stands or floors is precisely to stop them from moving due to excursion - otherwise we could have them suspended by cables from the ceiling - something I tried about 20 years ago and was surprised by the movement generated. Lesson learnt.
    Adey

    Sent from my Aquaris E4.5 using Tapatalk
    I can see how that would happen if the speakers were not rigidly suspended. But sat on a floor or stand the friction and inertia will be way too much for drive unit excursion to actually make them move. Vibrate, maybe, but no amount of coupling to a floor or stand will stop that and if the speaker is adequately built that shouldn't happen anyway.
    Martin



    Current Lash Up:

    Technics SL1200 with Sumiko h/s & Nagaoka MP50 * Firebottle valve MM phono stage * Parasound CDPi1000 * NVA P90SA passive pre / Krell KSA50S Power amp * JM Lab Electra 926 loudspeakers *


  8. #18
    Join Date: Oct 2012

    Location: The Black Country

    Posts: 3,255
    I'm Alan.

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    Ahh ... that's what the pieces were for.

    Glad it has made an improvement

  9. #19
    Join Date: Jan 2013

    Location: Birmingham

    Posts: 2,688
    I'm James.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebottle View Post
    Ahh ... that's what the pieces were for.

    Glad it has made an improvement
    As you heard on a massive scale and saw what this material was under I think you will have to agree there is some substance in me pursuing this materials ability and properties.
    VPI Scout 1.1 / JMW 9T Tonearm / 2M Black /Croft 25R+ / Croft 7 / Spendor SP2

  10. #20
    Join Date: Apr 2012

    Location: Near Oxford

    Posts: 464
    I'm Bill.

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    Quote Originally Posted by killie99 View Post
    What's the name of the laminate you're using?
    Looks like Compact Laminate to me, 16 or 20mm thick?

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