Next steps to "complete" my system?

[eddieedwards]

After a few years of messing around with various components, I feel relatively settled with what I have now and don't currently have the urge to try anything different (though these things can change in an instant, when scanning the classifieds, as I'm sure you all understand ).

This has got me wondering what to do next with my system to finish it off "properly", or perhaps it should be left as is, if new purchases would be a total waste of cash. Here's what I've got now:

• Sources: Garrard 401, Audio Note Arm 1 (all fettled and running well), Calyx DAC
• Phono amplification: S&B TX103 SUT or Silvercore MC and Leben RS30EQ
• Amplification: Leben CS600
• Speakers: Cadence Amaya
• Interconnects: Standard black Linns from when I had a DS, Cambridge Audio from when I was a student 20 years ago and sound no different to the Living Voice ICs I've got
• Speaker cables: Maplin Shark OFC
• Power Cables: Wilko block, kettle leads

In what order might it be best to look at things, or leave things as they are? Things sound good to me but, as always, could things sound better and what would you look at, if anything? In general components are good, and I'm happy - the stuff joining it all together is standard stuff, but "adequate".

[topoxforddoc]

Have you bought a wet vacuum record cleaner? If not, that should be your number one upgrade along with a box of new inside covers (available from places like covers33)

[brucew268]

I feel relatively settled with what I have now and don't currently have the urge to try anything different

...Hence your post here! I feel it all too well.

On my Calyx, I changed out the PS cap for a Panasonc short FM or FC (can't remember which), which brought an added level of clarity. I've also seen WA Quantum chips that can be put on DAC chips or opamps. Good reviews on the results, for not much layout of cash, though I've not yet tried them. I've played a bit with isolation on the DAC, DIY rollerblocks over innertube, with good effect on added naturalness to the sound.

I also added a DC-blocker in front of my distribution block, with positive results for less than £50.

Of course those are all DIY-type things to play with, taking a little time but not much money. If you are not so-wired, ignore.

Maybe, try some speaker cable upgrades from a place that gives 30 days money back if not satisfied.

[eddieedwards]

Thanks for the responses.

A DC blocker is something I've briefly looked in to, as I was told it could help with the occasional hum I get through the speakers. TBH, though, it is only noticeable when the system is on and silent, which is rare, so it seemed a slight waste of money and I doubted it would work as it seemed a little foo like!

[brucew268]

I'm not thinking in terms of conventional wisdom about DC blockers. DC leaking at a certain level produces hum in transformers, yes. But several people in the last year have found that even without hum, a DC blocker results in better presentation of fleshed out instruments and 3-dimensional space by addressing the mains noise related to low level DC leakage.

[09mike69]

After a few years of messing around with various components, I feel relatively settled with what I have now and don't currently have the urge to try anything different (though these things can change in an instant, when scanning the classifieds, as I'm sure you all understand ).

This has got me wondering what to do next with my system to finish it off "properly", or perhaps it should be left as is, if new purchases would be a total waste of cash. Here's what I've got now:

• Sources: Garrard 401, Audio Note Arm 1 (all fettled and running well), Calyx DAC
• Phono amplification: S&B TX103 SUT or Silvercore MC and Leben RS30EQ
• Amplification: Leben CS600
• Speakers: Cadence Amaya
• Interconnects: Standard black Linns from when I had a DS, Cambridge Audio from when I was a student 20 years ago and sound no different to the Living Voice ICs I've got
• Speaker cables: Maplin Shark OFC
• Power Cables: Wilko block, kettle leads

In what order might it be best to look at things, or leave things as they are? Things sound good to me but, as always, could things sound better and what would you look at, if anything? In general components are good, and I'm happy - the stuff joining it all together is standard stuff, but "adequate".

keep all that good stuff and start a "system b"... compare, and once your happy that what you already have is what you want....err..give me "system b".
cheers
Mike.

[SLS]

If you're happy, why on earth change anything? Forget cables. Certainly a Loricraft PRC4 is a great asset if you have lots of vinyl. Otherwise, keep the money for music and concerts.

[loveoscar]

You're now at the stage were to upgrade any of your components is going to be bloody expensive, think in terms of at least double the cost of the replacement item to hear any significant improvement. You could try a different speaker cable or a couple of power cords, (I could possibly lend you 1 or 2 to try) but other than that if your happy with the sound leave as is. Good luck Matthew.

[walpurgis]

A new MC cartridge is always a pleasant treat.

[montesquieu]

Having owned Arm1, 2 and 3 (I assume you own the current AN arm - the original Rega-based ones fall well short of the latest ones) .. the main things I would say are worth playing are tonearms and cartridges. It's not a bad arm in the least but it does lack flexibilty.

Idlers generally go well with higher-mass arms and lower-compliance cartridges - I'd be looking at a Fidelity Research FR64S or (what I replaced mine with) an equivalent Ikeda. 401 plinths can accommodate 12in and 9in arms ... play with mono cartridges (if you have mono vinyl of course), and stereo cartridges ... SPUs, Miyajimas, Kisekis, Koetsus, even Denons ... your phono stage will accommodate all of these. And you have two SUTs ... make the most of it.

Endless fun without upsetting the applecart in the least.

The starting point though is a flexible arm that can take different headshells. The Jelco 750D or 750L with an Ammonite Audio collar and a decent cable (or if you want to push the boat out, an Audio Origami silver rewire and bearing fettle) can easily be the match of the AN arm and far more practical. Couple of different counterweights and you are on your way.