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Thread: Right-angled airlock bananas?

  1. #1
    Join Date: Jan 2014

    Location: Brighton, UK

    Posts: 67
    I'm James.

    Default Right-angled airlock bananas?

    Hi all,

    I love my QED XT-40 cable, I got it 1/2 price from Mr Richer.

    One end I have soldered spades to attach to my DM601 S2s the other I have screwed into R/Angle bananas because my amp is hard up against a wall and can't come out any further ... problem is, I'm worried it will corrode without airlocks. - Paranoid? Maybe!

    I dont mind the spades at the speaker end but I wondered whether getting airlocks at the amp end and then using standard R/Angle screw-in bananas as converters?

    Maybe I could just solder into the R/Angle plugs? - I'm sure the airlocks would be better though?.. No?

    Thought welcome!

    Cheers

  2. #2
    Join Date: Oct 2012

    Location: The Black Country

    Posts: 6,089
    I'm Alan.

    Default

    Do you mean sleeving across the joint?
    If your environment is perfectly dry you won't get any corrosion.

  3. #3
    Join Date: Jan 2014

    Location: Brighton, UK

    Posts: 67
    I'm James.

    Default

    Well, it's in doors... but I was under the impression oxidisation or corrosion could still be a problem.....?

    I have heatshrinked the joint to me spades but the terminals I'm using amp-end aren't really sleeve-able ....

  4. #4
    danilo Guest

    Default

    IMO the best connection, beyond a directly soldered connection would be bare (or even soldered ends) wire into the amps connectors.
    Better even than spades and certainly better than Bananas.
    Simple is often the best path. Small to no gains in adding complexity.

  5. #5
    Join Date: Oct 2012

    Location: NE England

    Posts: 4,173
    I'm Jez.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by danilo View Post
    IMO the best connection, beyond a directly soldered connection would be bare (or even soldered ends) wire into the amps connectors.
    Better even than spades and certainly better than Bananas.
    Simple is often the best path. Small to no gains in adding complexity.
    +1
    Arkless Electronics-Engineered to be better. Tel. 01670 530674 (after 1pm)

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  6. #6
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Wrexham, North Wales, UK

    Posts: 110,012
    I'm AudioAl'sArbiterForPISHANTO.

    Default

    Yup, if it's practical, the best plug is no plug!

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  7. #7
    Join Date: Jan 2014

    Location: Brighton, UK

    Posts: 67
    I'm James.

    Default

    Ok.... I hear ya and agree apart from...

    How on earth do you get fat cables into tiny crappy Onkyo binding posts?

    I have TX-40 cable and even with the inner tube removed at the ends and a really tight twist it barely fits in the hole and doesn't feel very secure....


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

  8. #8
    Join Date: May 2012

    Location: Toulouse, France

    Posts: 6,563
    I'm Kevin.

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    Properly soldered Z plugs would be better - if you have room for them.
    Kevin

    Too busy enjoying the music....

    European loan coordinator for Graham Slee HiFi system components..

  9. #9
    Join Date: Oct 2012

    Location: NE England

    Posts: 4,173
    I'm Jez.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Utterchaos View Post
    Ok.... I hear ya and agree apart from...

    How on earth do you get fat cables into tiny crappy Onkyo binding posts?

    I have TX-40 cable and even with the inner tube removed at the ends and a really tight twist it barely fits in the hole and doesn't feel very secure....


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    Just cut away some of the strands until it's thin enough to go in.
    Arkless Electronics-Engineered to be better. Tel. 01670 530674 (after 1pm)

    Modded Thorens TD150, Audio Technica AT-1005 MkII, Technics EPC-300MC, Arkless Hybrid MC phono stage, Arkless passive pre, Arkless 50WPC Class A SS power amp, (or) Arkless modded Leak Stereo 20, Modded Kef Reference 105/3's
    ReVox PR99, Studer B62, Ferrograph Series 7, Tandberg TCD440, Hitachi FT-5500MkI, also FT-5500MkII
    Digital: Yamaha CDR-HD1500 (Digital Swiss army knife-CD recorder, player, hard drive, DAC and ADC in one), PC files via 24/96 sound card and SPDIF, modded Philips CD850, modded Philips CD104, modded DPA Little Bit DAC. Sennheiser HD580 cans with Arkless Headphone amp.
    Cables- free interconnects that come with CD players, mains leads from B&Q, dead kettles etc, extension leads from Tesco

  10. #10
    Join Date: May 2012

    Location: Toulouse, France

    Posts: 6,563
    I'm Kevin.

    Default

    Kevin

    Too busy enjoying the music....

    European loan coordinator for Graham Slee HiFi system components..

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