OLED really does 'pop' out of the screen, black black blacks.
I guess the RGB + white is to counter how OLED can have 'blue hues' on the whites.
OLED really does 'pop' out of the screen, black black blacks.
I guess the RGB + white is to counter how OLED can have 'blue hues' on the whites.
Mana Acoustics Racks / Bright Star IsoNodes Decoupling >> Allo DigiOne Player >> Pedja Rogic's Audial Model S DAC + Pioneer PL-71 turntable / Vista Audio phono-1 mk II / Denon PCL-5 headshell / Reson Reca >> LFD DLS >> LFD PA2M (SE) >> Royd RR3s.
You could always attach a USB hard drive and download videos from YouTube using a 4K downloader, then hook the USB drive into the TV set. That works well although you lose the on demand immediacy that a broadband connection gives.
Referring to the broadband speed yes I can believe it. You should be hunting rabbits!!!
Discovered a bug - I'm using DVI to HDMI output from my PC's graphics card, which is somewhat long in the tooth now.
So the audio is going out from my ASUS Xonar Essence ST sound card to the TV's audio in, as DVI doesn't handle sound.
The trouble is it keeps the audio switched out, unless you change to the PC input WHEN some sound is playing. Then it is OK.
Need to update the graphics card for an HDMI one, and buy DOOM 2016 for some fun, as the YouTube videos of it look stunning. Still doesn't look quite as fast a gameplay as DOOM 2, though. The timing in that game was spot on, not in terms of framerate, but in terms off gameplay. It was so fast in really kept you on you seat. Genuine classic.
As far as the picture goes, it takes sometime to get used to its different presentation - which is very different to a LED lit LCD of any make. It is the reproduction of whites that makes it so different, and the screen's setting needs tweaking to make sure it isn't a problem, because it really can be, with things like white shirts looking too white saturated.
Dark scene detail visibility is better than any LED LCD I have seen, I think. Which is really necessary with a lot of dark lit Hollywood films.
No doubt it is very input sensitive. But then it is a top end display technology, of that I am convinced. So feed it rubbish and you are in trouble. Feed it 4K and it is stunning, providing it is good 4K.
An example of an amazing 4K video would be this one:
LG's 3D tech is compatible with cinema glasses. It is a better compromise than battery fed flicker types, IMHO. It also works well in daytime ambient light, which my Samsung's flicker efforts do not. Checkout some of YouTube's 3D pop out videos for some real in your face effects.
Yosemite - the super-volcano that will one day kill us all. But it is pretty.
Have to say I don't care a jot for 3D but good contrast ratio is really important. On mine if you have a dark scene the screen is just black the whole time. Makes it really hard to follow the plot sometimes. That's my only priority - that and screen size. I can live without HD too, although it is noticeably better, unlike 'HD' music.
Current Lash Up:
TEAC VRDS 701T > Sony TAE1000ESD > Krell KSA50S > JM Labs Focal Electra 926.
My fluro LED Sony, 10 years old now, is hopeless in dark lit scenes. It also has a very pastel like look to the way it paints colours, by way of comparison. It still looks good in its own way, especially in well lit scenes.
The early LED tellys were very un-natural. My father had one and I messed with every parameter but couldn't get it looking right. Films looked especially odd - you know that weird over-lit style you get with some sitcoms and soaps? Coronation Street is a good example. You could perform an appendectomy in the Rovers, it is that bright in there. Nowhere in real life is lit like that except an operating theatre. Well films on this thing all looked like that.
Current Lash Up:
TEAC VRDS 701T > Sony TAE1000ESD > Krell KSA50S > JM Labs Focal Electra 926.
I made a mistake there - it is a fluro lit LCD. It was the first 1080P LCD Sony made. It was initially £4K!!! Anyway, a low contrast ratio on the spec sheet in comparison to today's sets. Hence bad in low light scenes, as you said.
SOURCE:OPPO UDP-205 BluRay, SkyQ, Technics SL1210M5G/HexMat Eclipse/MN Bearing/Origin Live Gravity One puck/Isonoes with Boots/Jelco TK-850S Tonearm/Hana Umami Blue, PS Audio Stellar Phonostage. I also have an AT-OC9XSH as a spare cartridge.
AMPLIFIER: Bryston BR-20 Pre/DAC/Streamer & Bryston 4B3 Power Amplifier
SPEAKERS: Spendor D7 on Iso-Acoustics Gaia III’s
HEADPHONES: OPPO PM-1 with Atlas Zeno cable, B&W Pi7 S2 and B&W C5 v2.
CABLES: Analogue: Speaker Atlas Mavros Grun. Interconnect - Atlas Mavros XLR x3, MCRU Silver Tonearm cable
Digital:Audioquest Carbon Ethernet x 4, Audioquest Carbon digital, English Electric 8Switch, Chord Optichord, Atlas Optical.
Mains: PS Audio Perfectwave AC-05 x 5, Isol-8 Powerline Extreme with Quantum Science yellow fuse on input cable, Sounds Fantastic 6way Mains Blocks.
STORAGE: Synology DS216J NAS with 2 x 3Tb WD Red hard-drives. Samsung 500Gb SSD.
TV LG55B7 OLED
Ah that's right. It's the one where Yogi Bear lives. I always mix them up.
Current Lash Up:
TEAC VRDS 701T > Sony TAE1000ESD > Krell KSA50S > JM Labs Focal Electra 926.