On the other hand many speakers of an "average" load and efficiency, when used at the lowish volumes many are limited to by domestic situation, will be driven fine by an amp with now't special in the current delivery area and with "only" 30WPC. Which doesn't make it easier for the newcomer....
A point that I would make for the newcomer is that speaker damage is most often in the form of blown tweeters caused by an amp being NOT POWERFUL ENOUGH. When an amp clips it generates considerable ultrasonic power in the form of distortion, Now although the speakers may be rated at 100W, the tweeter alone (which is taking all of this distorted ultrasonic power) is probably only rated at say 15W and so can be blown by a 30WPC amp
Specs? Important, but only if you know which specs are important! I wouldn't be bothered by one amp having 0.01% distortion and another having 0.001% but I would be if one turntable had wow and flutter of 0.03% but the other had 0.5%!
Arkless Electronics-Engineered to be better. Tel. 01670 530674 (after 1pm)
Modded Thorens TD150, Audio Technica AT-1005 MkII, Technics EPC-300MC, Arkless Hybrid MC phono stage, Arkless passive pre, Arkless 50WPC Class A SS power amp, (or) Arkless modded Leak Stereo 20, Modded Kef Reference 105/3's
ReVox PR99, Studer B62, Ferrograph Series 7, Tandberg TCD440, Hitachi FT-5500MkI, also FT-5500MkII
Digital: Yamaha CDR-HD1500 (Digital Swiss army knife-CD recorder, player, hard drive, DAC and ADC in one), PC files via 24/96 sound card and SPDIF, modded Philips CD850, modded Philips CD104, modded DPA Little Bit DAC. Sennheiser HD580 cans with Arkless Headphone amp.
Cables- free interconnects that come with CD players, mains leads from B&Q, dead kettles etc, extension leads from Tesco