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Thread: New to Hi-Fi? Just Starting Out? Some Tips!

  1. #21
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Wrexham, North Wales, UK

    Posts: 110,012
    I'm AudioAl'sArbiterForPISHANTO.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Macca View Post
    I've also lost track of the number of times I have listened to amplifiers clipping - this is because of people not paying attention to the spec and using a 30watt 'highly regarded' amp when they need a 100 watt amp to get the SPL they want in their room. The 30 watter may sound better within its performance envelope but if you are not going to use it within its abilities it is going to sound rotten.
    That's a very good point. Always choose an amplifier/speaker combo that, aside from sounding good within its performance envelope, has the ability to 'drive' your room properly, at the levels you listen at.

    However, specs alone are not enough to judge that accurately, as some 30W amps, with larger PSUs and bigger reserves of current, will typically be able to drive more difficult speaker loads than other amps, with the same power output on paper, which in turn will allow them to fill the room easier with music.

    Few specs usually quoted will tell you that, so you have to use yer lugs and try stuff! Quite simply, there is no replacement for practical experience.

    So specs do matter to an extent, you don't need to be a boffin to understand them, and 'if it sounds good it is good' is really too facile to be practical advice to anyone.
    Indeed, but its not so much understanding their meaning in 'black and white', but more importantly the context correctly in which they apply. That's the harder bit!

    Marco.
    Main System

    Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & reg mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat/Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight/Isonoe feet & boots/Ortofon RS-212D/Denon DL-103GL in Denon PCL-300 headshell with Funk Firm Houdini/Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.

    Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp/Denon AU-310 SUT.

    Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.

    CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.

    Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new, by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.

    Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. LDR Stereo Coffee. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.

    Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.

    Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.

    Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.


    Protect your HUMAN RIGHTS and REFUSE ANY *MANDATORY* VACCINE FOR COVID-19!

    Also **SAY NO** to unjust 'vaccine passports' or certificates, which are totally incompatible with a FREE society!!!


  2. #22
    Join Date: Aug 2009

    Location: Staffordshire, England

    Posts: 37,934
    I'm Martin.

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    Ah well, difficult loads is another situation entirely. A lot of amps are crap at delivering current into low impedance loads (as presented by a lot of modern speakers) so manufacturers tend to avoid quoting any specs about it.

    Problem is that it does make a huge difference to sound quality.

    Again I learned all this the hard way since the magazines never mention this issue. They will review a speaker and say 'a 50 watt amp will be fine' - well, not necessarily.

    Actually in general the magazines are piss-poor at this sort of advice - forums are much better as the law of averages says there will be at least a couple of posters who actually know their stuff.
    Current Lash Up:

    TEAC VRDS 701T > Sony TAE1000ESD > Krell KSA50S > JM Labs Focal Electra 926.

  3. #23
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Wrexham, North Wales, UK

    Posts: 110,012
    I'm AudioAl'sArbiterForPISHANTO.

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    ...which brings me onto another tip:

    When joining a forum, become a regular and get to know the members whose ears, tastes and opinions appear to align with yours. Then, arrange to go and hear their system and benchmark for what they consider as 'good'. That tends to sort the wheat out from the chaff. You need to assess whether they can walk the walk, as well as they talk the talk!

    If it's also good to you, and you rate what they've done, then try replicating some of it and see if you can obtain the same results. That won't always be the case, as different rooms play a huge part in the end results you'll achieve, but it could certainly point you in the right direction.

    Also, if a member who's system you've heard and liked, backs up what they've written and the knowledge that they claim on forums, then it can be advantageous to take their advice and listen to what they have to say in future

    In that respect, there are a number of people here and elsewhere who's opinions on hi-fi I would take notice of rather more than others!

    Marco.
    Main System

    Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & reg mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat/Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight/Isonoe feet & boots/Ortofon RS-212D/Denon DL-103GL in Denon PCL-300 headshell with Funk Firm Houdini/Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.

    Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp/Denon AU-310 SUT.

    Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.

    CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.

    Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new, by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.

    Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. LDR Stereo Coffee. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.

    Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.

    Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.

    Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.


    Protect your HUMAN RIGHTS and REFUSE ANY *MANDATORY* VACCINE FOR COVID-19!

    Also **SAY NO** to unjust 'vaccine passports' or certificates, which are totally incompatible with a FREE society!!!


  4. #24
    Join Date: Apr 2008

    Location: Warrington

    Posts: 3,451
    I'm Neil.

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    A lot of amps are also huge watts on paper, but have rubbish "instantaneous current delivery". This is why some low watts on paper amps can sound much better and sound more powerful with real music.
    Mana Acoustics Racks / Bright Star IsoNodes Decoupling >> Allo DigiOne Player >> Pedja Rogic's Audial Model S DAC + Pioneer PL-71 turntable / Vista Audio phono-1 mk II / Denon PCL-5 headshell / Reson Reca >> LFD DLS >> LFD PA2M (SE) >> Royd RR3s.

  5. #25
    Join Date: Feb 2013

    Location: W Lothian

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    I'm Grant.

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    Quote Originally Posted by walpurgis View Post
    Very true. Try putting even a mere 20 watts through a pair of vintage Lowthers. You'll melt them! Mind you, you'd not be able to stay in the room with them without ear damage!
    Mine are rated at a massive 8watts
    Regards,
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  6. #26
    Join Date: Oct 2012

    Location: NE England

    Posts: 4,173
    I'm Jez.

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    On the other hand many speakers of an "average" load and efficiency, when used at the lowish volumes many are limited to by domestic situation, will be driven fine by an amp with now't special in the current delivery area and with "only" 30WPC. Which doesn't make it easier for the newcomer....

    A point that I would make for the newcomer is that speaker damage is most often in the form of blown tweeters caused by an amp being NOT POWERFUL ENOUGH. When an amp clips it generates considerable ultrasonic power in the form of distortion, Now although the speakers may be rated at 100W, the tweeter alone (which is taking all of this distorted ultrasonic power) is probably only rated at say 15W and so can be blown by a 30WPC amp

    Specs? Important, but only if you know which specs are important! I wouldn't be bothered by one amp having 0.01% distortion and another having 0.001% but I would be if one turntable had wow and flutter of 0.03% but the other had 0.5%!
    Arkless Electronics-Engineered to be better. Tel. 01670 530674 (after 1pm)

    Modded Thorens TD150, Audio Technica AT-1005 MkII, Technics EPC-300MC, Arkless Hybrid MC phono stage, Arkless passive pre, Arkless 50WPC Class A SS power amp, (or) Arkless modded Leak Stereo 20, Modded Kef Reference 105/3's
    ReVox PR99, Studer B62, Ferrograph Series 7, Tandberg TCD440, Hitachi FT-5500MkI, also FT-5500MkII
    Digital: Yamaha CDR-HD1500 (Digital Swiss army knife-CD recorder, player, hard drive, DAC and ADC in one), PC files via 24/96 sound card and SPDIF, modded Philips CD850, modded Philips CD104, modded DPA Little Bit DAC. Sennheiser HD580 cans with Arkless Headphone amp.
    Cables- free interconnects that come with CD players, mains leads from B&Q, dead kettles etc, extension leads from Tesco

  7. #27
    Join Date: May 2016

    Location: South Yorkshire

    Posts: 905
    I'm Andr'e.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Marco View Post
    Avoid the temptation of being lazy, and simply 'following the herd'.
    Nine time out of ten they will follow the heard of cheap File based systems because with this hob bee usually involves Money, Money is a big big problem for a lot, they aint got it. At least with a file based system every one owns the source [ laptop ] so they are pretty much good to go after buying some form of streamer & amp/speakers.

  8. #28
    Join Date: Aug 2009

    Location: Staffordshire, England

    Posts: 37,934
    I'm Martin.

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    Buy a turntable on the specs? Some people here who will be running away in horror!

    Specs are a good way to narrow down the choice a bit though. Plenty of turntables that don't go around at the correct speed, for example.
    Current Lash Up:

    TEAC VRDS 701T > Sony TAE1000ESD > Krell KSA50S > JM Labs Focal Electra 926.

  9. #29
    Join Date: May 2016

    Location: South Yorkshire

    Posts: 905
    I'm Andr'e.

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    I dont think a Turntable would be on the shopping list for starters tbh..Like i said it involves money to go down the Vinyl route, not just a matter of buying a Turntable issit.

  10. #30
    Join Date: Aug 2009

    Location: Staffordshire, England

    Posts: 37,934
    I'm Martin.

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    Times have changed, turntable manufacturers can't knock them up fast enough to meet demand.
    Current Lash Up:

    TEAC VRDS 701T > Sony TAE1000ESD > Krell KSA50S > JM Labs Focal Electra 926.

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