Originally Posted by
CornishPasty
Why bother with all that junk and glueing a lump of ally on the top plate etc? A longish bolt through the rod grommet with a penny washer either side of the slot and a locknut underneath the slot will do it. Nip it up just so and you can adjust the speed from underneath before removing the platter and locking it up. It worked ok for me but in the end I couldn't do without the speed change so reverted back to stock mechanism. With careful attention I have ended up with a rattle free mechanism which I'm happy with.
Yep, your solution is very elegant compared to the one suggested, which is by Jan Nantais who's decks sell for many thousands of Euro's. I like your solution but I dont like the idea of many surfaces chattering together, hence my suggestion of bonding the mount to the top plate. I've found marked sonic improvements with improved coupling of components and these decks seem to get better and better with improved coupling, vibration supression / dissipation. Too much dampening seem to have an impact on attack and muddies the sonic presentation. These are just my observations with my own experiments.
SS
CD Teac VRDS25X(Audiotuned) DECK 1210 Mat Crystal Audio Mods MN Base/Bearing/Platter+Ebony armboard Feet Isonoe PSU Paul Hynes SR7EHD-27XL/DCSXL Ag DC lead/3 Stage Regs/Recap PCB+No Pitch/Strobe/Light ARM SME V(Kondo Ag Rewire&Tags) MC Cadenza Black FGS CABLES Arm Yannis SPD-4 IC Yannis 222 Litz+Ag bullets Power WAR PRE ATC SCA2 SPEAKERS ATC 50ASL STANDS Atacama PHONO Sugden Masterclass PA4 SUT Ortofon ST80SE POWER PSAudio P10
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