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Thread: Bi-Amping confusion

  1. #1
    Join Date: Feb 2016

    Location: Melksham, Wiltshire

    Posts: 731
    I'm Peter.

    Default Bi-Amping confusion

    Default Bi- Amping Confusion
    Dear All,

    HELP!!!!!!

    Perhaps there is someone in the forum that could explain ? (As there is no definitive information on the Internet, which makes sense !)

    I am currently bi-amping / bi-wiring my system ( Horizonal) which to me makes sense, as the left and right channels remain, as though using one stereo amp. ( according to my test disks )

    Now.... I have tried vertical bi-amping, i.e. One amp for one speaker ( Left & Right). As described in many internet diagrams.

    However, when tested, the Left & Right channels are coming out of each speaker ( which looking at the diagram, seems obvious). I.e., No defined left and Right channels ..????

    To me, the Horizonal setup appears more natural, (Real Stereo), whereas, the Vertical doesn't sound too deferent..... But the is no defined left or Right.

    Very confused.... So why both options ? (when one is true stereo and the other is most certainly not).

    I know all the stuff about different amps to drive Bass and Treble, but that's not what I'm asking, or perhaps it's just a case of going with what you like?

    Kit is:-

    Townsend Rock 7 / SME V / Benz Wood / Whest Two / Spendor A5S / Quad 909's x Two etc, etc.

    Any pearls of wisdom would be appreciated.

    Peter

  2. #2
    Join Date: Apr 2012

    Location: N E Kent

    Posts: 51,625
    I'm Geoff.

    Default

    Here are two schematics that illustrate the differences:

    Bi-Wiring



    Bi-Amping

    It is impossible for anything digital to sound analogue, because it isn't analogue!

  3. #3
    Join Date: Nov 2008

    Location: Valley of the Hazels

    Posts: 9,139
    I'm AMusicFanNotAnAudiophile.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Boyse6748 View Post
    Default Bi- Amping Confusion
    Dear All,

    HELP!!!!!!
    Photos of how you have wired it might help us diagnose it if you get the same results following the above diagram.
    Chris



    Common sense isn't anymore!

  4. #4
    Join Date: Mar 2008

    Location: Halifax, UK

    Posts: 1,399
    I'm Nick.

    Default

    Very confused.... So why both options ? (when one is true stereo and the other is most certainly not).
    Both are true stereo (if done correctly). One way gives better LR separation (one amp per speaker) and the ability to make sure the HF and LF are matched (though the balance isnt), the other way, one amp for LF one for HF, different amp gain might alter the HF/LF balance.

    However, when tested, the Left & Right channels are coming out of each speaker
    Well, you may have got it wrong then.

    The major reason you would want to use one amp for LF, and one for HF is if the two requirements are different, for example, you might want to use a big mosfet amp for LF, and a sweeter valve amp for HF. Or you may want to go three ways, if the crossover can do it.
    Nick.

  5. #5
    Join Date: Oct 2012

    Location: NE England

    Posts: 4,173
    I'm Jez.

    Default

    A theoretical benefit of "horizontal bi-wiring" is that the treble is being handled by a separate amp from the one driving the power hungry woofers and so is "just ticking over" with little load on the power supply, even when the bass is thumping out...
    Arkless Electronics-Engineered to be better. Tel. 01670 530674 (after 1pm)

    Modded Thorens TD150, Audio Technica AT-1005 MkII, Technics EPC-300MC, Arkless Hybrid MC phono stage, Arkless passive pre, Arkless 50WPC Class A SS power amp, (or) Arkless modded Leak Stereo 20, Modded Kef Reference 105/3's
    ReVox PR99, Studer B62, Ferrograph Series 7, Tandberg TCD440, Hitachi FT-5500MkI, also FT-5500MkII
    Digital: Yamaha CDR-HD1500 (Digital Swiss army knife-CD recorder, player, hard drive, DAC and ADC in one), PC files via 24/96 sound card and SPDIF, modded Philips CD850, modded Philips CD104, modded DPA Little Bit DAC. Sennheiser HD580 cans with Arkless Headphone amp.
    Cables- free interconnects that come with CD players, mains leads from B&Q, dead kettles etc, extension leads from Tesco

  6. #6
    danilo Guest

    Default

    Erm.. it reads like you are running a left and right input from your Source to EACH amp !
    Should be feeding Only one channel per amp.
    Bi amping, IMO, as in without a line level crossover is only useful If one's speakers are Power Pigs and one's onhand amp(s) are low power / not up to the job.

  7. #7
    Join Date: Feb 2016

    Location: Melksham, Wiltshire

    Posts: 731
    I'm Peter.

    Default

    Thanks nick,

    I think my post has been misunderstood, the question I'm asking is why the difference between horizontal and vertical bi amping ,, one works... The other appears not to. Well, not in the context I'm refereeing.

    A geat answer, but not the one I was expecting.

    Sorry but there are no wiring anomalies.

    Old but not thick ,,,,,!!!!!!

    Boysey

  8. #8
    Join Date: Oct 2012

    Location: NE England

    Posts: 4,173
    I'm Jez.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by danilo View Post
    Erm.. it reads like you are running a left and right input from your Source to EACH amp !
    Should be feeding Only one channel per amp.
    Bi amping, IMO, as in without a line level crossover is only useful If one's speakers are Power Pigs and one's onhand amp(s) are low power / not up to the job.
    Indeed it does. There HAS to be some such wiring anomaly for the described problem to occur.
    Arkless Electronics-Engineered to be better. Tel. 01670 530674 (after 1pm)

    Modded Thorens TD150, Audio Technica AT-1005 MkII, Technics EPC-300MC, Arkless Hybrid MC phono stage, Arkless passive pre, Arkless 50WPC Class A SS power amp, (or) Arkless modded Leak Stereo 20, Modded Kef Reference 105/3's
    ReVox PR99, Studer B62, Ferrograph Series 7, Tandberg TCD440, Hitachi FT-5500MkI, also FT-5500MkII
    Digital: Yamaha CDR-HD1500 (Digital Swiss army knife-CD recorder, player, hard drive, DAC and ADC in one), PC files via 24/96 sound card and SPDIF, modded Philips CD850, modded Philips CD104, modded DPA Little Bit DAC. Sennheiser HD580 cans with Arkless Headphone amp.
    Cables- free interconnects that come with CD players, mains leads from B&Q, dead kettles etc, extension leads from Tesco

  9. #9
    Join Date: Feb 2016

    Location: Melksham, Wiltshire

    Posts: 731
    I'm Peter.


  10. #10
    Join Date: Oct 2012

    Location: NE England

    Posts: 4,173
    I'm Jez.

    Default

    The diagram is correct but IF you have moved to vertical bi wiring you need to put both "rights" to one amp and both "lefts" to the other......
    Arkless Electronics-Engineered to be better. Tel. 01670 530674 (after 1pm)

    Modded Thorens TD150, Audio Technica AT-1005 MkII, Technics EPC-300MC, Arkless Hybrid MC phono stage, Arkless passive pre, Arkless 50WPC Class A SS power amp, (or) Arkless modded Leak Stereo 20, Modded Kef Reference 105/3's
    ReVox PR99, Studer B62, Ferrograph Series 7, Tandberg TCD440, Hitachi FT-5500MkI, also FT-5500MkII
    Digital: Yamaha CDR-HD1500 (Digital Swiss army knife-CD recorder, player, hard drive, DAC and ADC in one), PC files via 24/96 sound card and SPDIF, modded Philips CD850, modded Philips CD104, modded DPA Little Bit DAC. Sennheiser HD580 cans with Arkless Headphone amp.
    Cables- free interconnects that come with CD players, mains leads from B&Q, dead kettles etc, extension leads from Tesco

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