Cat 5e Connection Advice.

[bob4333]

1. Minimising connections is not going to be beneficial.

2. Terminating it properly is going to be beneficial.

3. If you have pulled in proper Cat5e installation cable it's solid core.

4. It's important that you get the wires in the correct order - if you don't connect the cable pairs as pairs, and with the correct polarity then your cable will not have appropriate impedance, and RFI rejection will be compromised.
Your network will not work if your cable leg pairs are not the correct polarity.

5. Back to the cable - if it hasn't got Cat5e and an ISO number printed on it it isn't Cat5e.

6. If it has economy network cable printed on it it's CCA (copper clad aluminium), and it needs ripping out and replacing. CCA is shit, and it's not fit for purpose.

7. If your cable is stranded it's not meant to be used over long distances - it's meant to be used for making up patch leads.

Thanks for responding.

1. Fewer connections means fewer break points in the line. Surely all to the good.

2. Fully agree.

3. It's proper Cat5e with Solid Core.

4. Yes, thanks. I think Mark Grant covered this quite succinctly.

5. It's stamped with Cat 5e and ISO /IEC 11801

6. It doesn't have "economy network cable" or CCA printed on it so I presume it's not shit, and can therefore stay.

7. It's Solid Core, not stranded.

The only bit I'm struggling with is the general recommendation to introduce an outlet socket and then a patch lead into the link, rather than connecting direct. The cable enters the room from the sub-floor void (timber floor), using the same hole through which the speaker and other cables make their exit from the room.

An outlet is not required for convenience, nor for aesthetic reasons as the entry/exit hole in question cannot be seen. The HiFi electronics are well plumbed in and the likelihood of them ever being re-postioned is somewhat remote. Likewise, the risk of damaging the 1m of cat5e cable that's above the floor is unlikely as it's right at the back of the kit and a challenge to get at anyway.

If I were installing this as a data point in another room then it would be an outlet every time.

So, I think the only point we're adrift on is the inclusion of an outlet plate on the wall...................?

[bob4333]

As everyone else is saying fitting the wall plates/outlets would be best and a proper job but fitting connectors to the cable will work if you have suitable connectors for solid core cable and the crimp tool if that's how you want to do it for now.

Yes Mark, connectors are RJ45 for solid cable, to be crimped using the correct tool.

[Stratmangler]

The crimp plugs are designed to be used with stranded cable.

[bob4333]

For the plugs I ordered from Cable Monkey the description reads:-

"These Cat5e UTP RJ45 plugs are suitable for terminations on both Stranded Patch and Solid core Cat5e Cable."

Not so........?

[Stratmangler]

You got a tester?
You can stick RJ45 plugs on solid core cable, even though they're not designed for it.
I do it on occasion, in very rare circumstances like getting caught out and not having a sufficiently long enough patch lead in the boot of the car.
When I do make up leads I test them.

I do this for a living, and I'm trying to steer you away from creating a rod for your own back.

[bob4333]

You got a tester?
You can stick RJ45 plugs on solid core cable, even though they're not designed for it.
I do it on occasion, in very rare circumstances like getting caught out and not having a sufficiently long enough patch lead in the boot of the car.
When I do make up leads I test them.

I do this for a living, and I'm trying to steer you away from creating a rod for your own back.

No Chris, I don't have a tester (yet!). Presumably this will confirm the pins are wired correctly and also check for shorts, continuity etc. In my case there's a fair distance between each end and I'll probably have to laboriously improvise or go and buy one if I'm not making progress. They don't appear to be overly expensive.

I appreciate the steer you're offering and the insight into some of the pit falls you've obviously encountered. Again, I think the only element with a question mark over it is the wall outlet (or absence of).

[Stratmangler]

All the bits for a wall outlet are modular.
To do one end you'd need number of bits.
http://www.cablemonkey.co.uk/cat5e-m...omod-size.html
http://www.cablemonkey.co.uk/facepla...faceplate.html
http://www.cablemonkey.co.uk/facepla...-box-32mm.html
http://www.cablemonkey.co.uk/facepla...ter-blank.html
http://www.cablemonkey.co.uk/tools/7...down-tool.html
http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/cyclops-sh...per-11mm-cw34m
http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/mini-lan-tester-a35cj
& a craft knife to cut any pullstring you might find in the cable.

Now just because the back box is meant to be wall mounted doesn't mean that you have to wall mount it.
If the cable comes up through a hole in the floor and it's hidden behind something, why not just make it off and put it on the floor.
Your cable might come in close to the skirting board, so you could screw a back box 5mm or so above the floor and onto the skirting board.

[Canetoad]

I have cat6 backbone cable throughout the house. Lounge, family room and one bedroom so far. Two other bedrooms to go. All rooms have a wall socket and I connect using cat5e currently. I have a 16 port switch with broadband and NAS attached, all hidden in the cupboard under the stairs. The lounge has an 8 port gigabit switch which has tv, bluray player, satellite box, squeezebox and 2 RPis attached. It all works fantastically! Music and movies from the NAS and my son can access the NAS through his Playstation in his bedroom. I can access everything anywhere in the house I have a socket.

Eventually, I'll have an rj45 connection in my workshop too, for music while I work.

[bob4333]

Thanks for looking those parts up for me Chris. Very useful - especially coming from someone who does this every day.

I'll probably pick this up again early next week and come back if I hit any snags - although compared to threading the cable it seems fairly predictable from now on.

Bob

[bob4333]

Nipped out this morning and bought the LAN tester highlighted by Chris. £9.99 from Maplins - no money for what it does.

Crimped an RJ45 on each end of the cable, applied the tester and pushed the button.

Good news - no open circuit so at least the cable integrity was good.

Bad news - tester indicated a crossover. WHAT?? I'd done it all as per the colour coded diagrams and instructions. To the letter!!

Well, actually I hadn't. Using a magnifying glass it turned out I'd switched the White/Green Stripe with the White/Blue Stripe on one end. My argument is that the stripe could be thicker so at least you can see it. So, cut off the faulty plug and do it again in the right order. Re-test and all is well. Plugged the cable into the Hub at one end and the Streamer at the other and it works. Good bye WiFi drop outs and songs cutting off part way through. As expected the Cyrus remote and app are also much more responsive.

Now I know this probably isn't the way the purists would have done it, but for me it's logical, unobtrusive and it works: and it will facilitate installing a switch later to split the feed to other units if I decide to do so.

If anyone else is thinking of doing it I'd say don't even think about it without buying / borrowing a crimping tool, and the tester is good to confirm you've done it right. The hardest part was routing the cable through the house so it was hidden.

Thanks to all for all the guidance.

Bob