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Thread: Lockwoods in da house! - advice please

  1. #11
    Join Date: Sep 2009

    Location: Derbyshire

    Posts: 9,252
    I'm Josie.

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    You could strip the formica but I'd strongly advise you not to. The formica is part of the sound. Formica is thick rigid stuff where veneer is very thin and flimsy, so take a guess.

    Find a place who fit Formica and get a quoteywoty.

    And yes... they need re-coning. Last time I heard, Lockwood charge about £150 for the job.
    Ultrafide U500DC power amplifier - Croft Vitale )highly modified) - TRIO L-07D Turntable - Denon DL103C1 - Funk Firm Houdini - Lentek MC head amp - 15" Tannoy Monitor Gold Loudspeakers in Lockwood Major cabinets (From Trident Studios) - Tannoyista SPEC 3 Custom Crossovers - VanDamme Black Speaker Cable

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  2. #12
    Join Date: Aug 2009

    Location: Staffordshire, England

    Posts: 37,882
    I'm Martin.

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    Well worth doing it and getting them fully sorted - you'll then have some of the best loudspeakers .... in the world.
    Current Lash Up:

    TEAC VRDS 701T > Sony TAE1000ESD > Krell KSA50S > JM Labs Focal Electra 926.

  3. #13
    danilo Guest

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    Nice Find! I'd Tread lightly on a Recone.
    Are they going to refit Genuine... Goodmans' mfgd Cones?
    Prolly something of more recent mfg...with a pleated (too Stiff) surround that will sound 'different' and take a Loooong time to break in.. either the cones Or your perception (either is arguable :-).
    Having spent large.. in time and years (decades) 'fooling' with My Golds crossovers.
    I strongly suggest you Don't ..Only.. update the capacitors in your existing units, as these do time out.
    Listen for a year or so then consider More intervention. If you must.
    There has evolved an entire sub industry in Molested Tannoy Crossovers. Many are imo; sketchy, at best.

    As aside: a Quality Tube amp is not Required.
    One can do better :-)

  4. #14
    Join Date: Nov 2010

    Location: Yorkshire

    Posts: 9,321
    I'm Andrew.

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    Welcome to the manly Lockwood owners club, it's nice to know that 15" is better than 12" .
    SS
    CD Teac VRDS25X(Audiotuned) DECK 1210 Mat Crystal Audio Mods MN Base/Bearing/Platter+Ebony armboard Feet Isonoe PSU Paul Hynes SR7EHD-27XL/DCSXL Ag DC lead/3 Stage Regs/Recap PCB+No Pitch/Strobe/Light ARM SME V(Kondo Ag Rewire&Tags) MC Cadenza Black FGS CABLES Arm Yannis SPD-4 IC Yannis 222 Litz+Ag bullets Power WAR PRE ATC SCA2 SPEAKERS ATC 50ASL STANDS Atacama PHONO Sugden Masterclass PA4 SUT Ortofon ST80SE POWER PSAudio P10

    VALVE
    PRE
    Croft Epoch(Modded) AMP Sondex S100 (Modded) SPEAKERS Tannoy 15"MG+RFC Warwick cabs+ Ref XO + Batpure supertweeters DECK Garrard 301 Mat Teunto Bearings 401(Bastin) Plinth Bamboo Arms 3009/3012 PSU Eagle+Tachometer MC Ag Meister II/FGS + Ortofon SPU MONO CABLES Arm Yannis 420.5 Litz+ SpeakerPC Tripple C+WBT-0681 Ag IC Oyaide FTVS-510 AgWBT 0110Ag Phonostages Paradise(4 Box Mega-Modded) / Croft Musicmaker



  5. #15
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Wrexham, North Wales, UK

    Posts: 110,012
    I'm AudioAl'sArbiterForPISHANTO.

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    Eh, I'm not cutting 3" off of mine for anyone!

    Marco.
    Main System

    Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & reg mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat/Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight/Isonoe feet & boots/Ortofon RS-212D/Denon DL-103GL in Denon PCL-300 headshell with Funk Firm Houdini/Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.

    Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp/Denon AU-310 SUT.

    Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.

    CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.

    Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new, by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.

    Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. LDR Stereo Coffee. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.

    Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.

    Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.

    Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.


    Protect your HUMAN RIGHTS and REFUSE ANY *MANDATORY* VACCINE FOR COVID-19!

    Also **SAY NO** to unjust 'vaccine passports' or certificates, which are totally incompatible with a FREE society!!!


  6. #16
    Join Date: Sep 2014

    Location: Northern Ireland

    Posts: 1,403
    I'm John.

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    Thanks everyone for the words of encouragement and conflicting viewpoints, now I really don't know what to do!

    Tried scraping the paint off the top of one cab.

    I started on this panel because it is really badly damaged already so no big loss if I made a hash of it. As you can see there is a whopping great chunk of Formica missing off of one corner.

    Actually came up pretty well but was a bit of a nightmare.

    This bit took me about an hour and a half solid work - reckon both cabs would take me a couple of months

    Still sounding awesome, but my amp and CD player are just that bit thin sounding, OK with the right recordings - my Rega RS3s have quite a full balance.

    I think the CDS1 is the main culprit but it isn't going anywhere so a change of amp will be on the horizon sometime down the road and since I'm thinking of getting rid of the RP6 anyway that will mean a complete system change

    Few photos of tonight's handiwork, knew that Costa rewards card would come in handy

    Looks like Oak finish to me - what do you think?

    IMG_1632.jpgIMG_1633.jpgIMG_1634.jpg

  7. #17
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Wrexham, North Wales, UK

    Posts: 110,012
    I'm AudioAl'sArbiterForPISHANTO.

    Default

    Jeez, why would you want to have painted over that nice 'wood grain' (effect or otherwise), with that shitty black paint? Honestly, some folk need locking up!

    Haven't seen them in that finish before, John, but they look to be in half-decent nick. Like others have said, I wouldn't touch the formica, just try and repair it as best as you can, as removing it will most certainly alter the sound of the speakers, and I suspect, not for the better.

    Btw, a CDS1 shouldn't sound thin - quite the opposite, when partnered correctly. HPDs respond well to valves or SS, so simply choose your favourite poison

    Marco.
    Main System

    Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & reg mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat/Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight/Isonoe feet & boots/Ortofon RS-212D/Denon DL-103GL in Denon PCL-300 headshell with Funk Firm Houdini/Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.

    Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp/Denon AU-310 SUT.

    Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.

    CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.

    Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new, by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.

    Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. LDR Stereo Coffee. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.

    Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.

    Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.

    Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.


    Protect your HUMAN RIGHTS and REFUSE ANY *MANDATORY* VACCINE FOR COVID-19!

    Also **SAY NO** to unjust 'vaccine passports' or certificates, which are totally incompatible with a FREE society!!!


  8. #18
    Join Date: Feb 2013

    Location: W Lothian

    Posts: 99,005
    I'm Grant.

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    is it water based paint or oil based?
    Regards,
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  9. #19
    Join Date: Sep 2014

    Location: Northern Ireland

    Posts: 1,403
    I'm John.

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    Quote Originally Posted by struth View Post
    is it water based paint or oil based?
    I think it's water based but still a right pain. Bit like taking off wall paper or plaster, some easy bits and some really slow bits.

  10. #20
    Join Date: Sep 2014

    Location: Northern Ireland

    Posts: 1,403
    I'm John.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Marco View Post
    Jeez, why would you want to have painted over that nice 'wood grain' (effect or otherwise), with that shitty black paint? Honestly, some folk need locking up!

    Haven't seen them in that finish before, John, but they look to be in half-decent nick. Like others have said, I wouldn't touch the formica, just try and repair it as best as you can, as removing it will most certainly alter the sound of the speakers, and I suspect, not for the better.

    Btw, a CDS1 shouldn't sound thin - quite the opposite, when partnered correctly. HPDs respond well to valves or SS, so simply choose your favourite poison

    Marco.
    I think the CDS1 is just very clean with no bloom. I suspect a 303 Quad would be good tonally.

    Yes, I'm seriously considering keeping the Formica and repairing as best I can as you say.

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