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Thread: An enlightening day! (steve toy's amps)

  1. #21
    Join Date: Mar 2008

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    I'm inthescottishmafia.

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    Quite agree with Greg here.One thing I would add is that the WD pre's are in effect minature triode amps and use output transformers.This design allows them to sidestep the most common issue of matching pre to power causing poor sound-that of impedance.The WD pre will work really well with just about anything.

  2. #22
    Join Date: Mar 2009

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    I'm David.

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    funnily enough i was looking at the wd's just prior to investigating the starfish
    CS Port TAT2 - Benz LPS - Funkfirm Houdini - DS Audio Vinyl Ionizer - CS Port C3EQ - Kondo G70 - Kondo Gakuoh II - Maxonic TW1100 MKII - Isol-8 SubStation Integra

  3. #23
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Central England

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    No passive pre will ever come close to the TD grounded grid. In fact not many preamps at all anywhere come close. Certainly, if you want drive, dynamics a dive-in-there soundstage as well as subtlety and transparency it just has to be active.

    I'd take a solid state pre over a passive and Anthony makes rather fine solid state preamps too...

  4. #24
    Join Date: May 2008

    Location: A Strangely Isolated Place in Suffolk with Far Away Trains Passing By...

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    I'm David.

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    As far as I can see, the Starfish is what the 552/252 should be, although the bandwidth limiting is optional.. Still a 1960's early transistor design with single rail 24V supply though, albeit more of them than in a lower grade naim preamp..

    I looked at the WD preamp too, but the cost was so much more than the old Croft I ended up with I abandoned the idea. Apparently, there's loads of race tuning to be done on the WD too.

    Good luck, and I'm very pleased for you that you've found an amp to suit the PMC's, as transmission lines can be difficult to control properly...
    Tear down these walls; Cut the ties that held me
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  5. #25
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Wrexham, North Wales, UK

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    I'm AudioAl'sArbiterForPISHANTO.

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    No passive pre will ever come close to the TD grounded grid. In fact not many preamps at all anywhere come close. Certainly, if you want drive, dynamics a dive-in-there soundstage as well as subtlety and transparency it just has to be active.
    True.

    I fully understand why Greg recommended building a passive pre, from a D.I.Y point of view to get Hamish building, but quite simply, in comparison to an active preamp of the quality of your TD one, sonically, I suspect that it's no contest.

    In fact, I've yet to hear any passive preamp that I could live with, and I've heard some good ones (both D.I.Y and commercial) full of top components. It's a fundamental design issue. Passive preamps, of any description, I suspect are just not up to what I get from the Croft or what you get from your TD preamp.

    Marco.
    Main System

    Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & reg mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat/Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight/Isonoe feet & boots/Ortofon RS-212D/Denon DL-103GL in Denon PCL-300 headshell with Funk Firm Houdini/Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.

    Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp/Denon AU-310 SUT.

    Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.

    CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.

    Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new, by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.

    Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. LDR Stereo Coffee. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.

    Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.

    Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.

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  6. #26
    Join Date: Mar 2009

    Location: Elland

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    I'm David.

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    it would be interesting to see the effect of a starfish, once i have the s100 and starfish here steve unless the s100 is very very good i can see my going for your amp! jon is happy for me to return the s100 to him, would you be happy to make a second visit for a comparison with the avondale with starfish?

    as a side note any ferther visits petrol i am happy to cover...
    CS Port TAT2 - Benz LPS - Funkfirm Houdini - DS Audio Vinyl Ionizer - CS Port C3EQ - Kondo G70 - Kondo Gakuoh II - Maxonic TW1100 MKII - Isol-8 SubStation Integra

  7. #27
    Join Date: Feb 2008

    Location: North East UK

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    I'm InSpace.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Toy View Post
    Certainly, if you want drive, dynamics a dive-in-there soundstage as well as subtlety and transparency it just has to be active.
    Then why did he Naim not work so well?

    Not all active pre amps are created equal!... It could well be that in that particular instance a passive could well have been better!

    I think Greg's suggestion was as much a 'get you going' solution as much as a good intro to DIY. Hamish could add an active pre at a later date.
    Shian7
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    broken again - still it's there:
    the moon on the water.

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  8. #28
    Join Date: Apr 2008

    Location: Bristol, UK

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    I'm Greg.

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    Yep, that was my point. I don't disagree with the benefit of an active pre, but I know what it's like when you're cash strapped and can't afford all you would like. If Hamish is in this position but can afford Steve's power amp, it'll keep his system working until he can afford a powered pre and also present a listenable sound in the meantime.

    Regards,

    Greg

  9. #29
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Wrexham, North Wales, UK

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    Seems like sounds advice to me

    Marco.
    Main System

    Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & reg mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat/Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight/Isonoe feet & boots/Ortofon RS-212D/Denon DL-103GL in Denon PCL-300 headshell with Funk Firm Houdini/Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.

    Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp/Denon AU-310 SUT.

    Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.

    CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.

    Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new, by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.

    Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. LDR Stereo Coffee. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.

    Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.

    Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.

    Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.


    Protect your HUMAN RIGHTS and REFUSE ANY *MANDATORY* VACCINE FOR COVID-19!

    Also **SAY NO** to unjust 'vaccine passports' or certificates, which are totally incompatible with a FREE society!!!


  10. #30
    Join Date: Apr 2008

    Location: Bristol, UK

    Posts: 441
    I'm Greg.

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    Quote Originally Posted by DSJR View Post
    . Apparently, there's loads of race tuning to be done on the WD too.
    Hi Dave,

    Sorry, I don't understand this and certainly, what does 'race tuning' mean? I'd appreciate an explaination. Thanks.

    Regards,

    Greg

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