+ Reply to Thread
Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 21 to 30 of 37

Thread: Celestion Ditton 25 and 44 Refurbs

  1. #21
    Join Date: Apr 2012

    Location: N E Kent

    Posts: 51,625
    I'm Geoff.

    Default

    I take it you are referring to the 5" mid in the 44s.

    You could have a look at my recommendation here. It often works'

    http://theartofsound.net/forum/showt...222#post742222
    It is impossible for anything digital to sound analogue, because it isn't analogue!

  2. #22
    Join Date: Oct 2013

    Location: Wrexham

    Posts: 1,058
    I'm Darren.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by madders View Post
    I've been listening to these for the last couple of days. One speaker sounds excellent (the one I did first). I've realised there is a problem with the midrange driver in the other one. There is a fair amount of distortion at times. I've taken it out again to have a look and I guess there must be something wrong with the voice coil. It's rubbing when I push it in or out by hand. I'm not sure whether to attempt repairing it, or just look for a replacement on eBay.
    Look no further: http://theartofsound.net/forum/showt...F2000-MF500-D5

    PM me if you're interested.
    Darren.
    Listening Room.
    UNDER CONSTRUCTION
    Turn Table. Garrard 401, Reso Mat, 2 Tier Slate Plinth, DIY Hadcock GH242, Nick G modded Lentek, Denon DL-103.
    Pre Amp. Croft Super Micro2. Power Amps Quad 405 Mono Blocks.
    Speakers. TBC

    Home Cinema.
    UNDER CONSTRUCTION
    DAC/Pre Amp. Denon AVC X3700H.
    BDP/Streamer. Panasonic DP-UB820EB / Apple TV4K.
    Display. Optoma UHD51 / DIY False Black Window Screen.
    Power Amps. 2 x Nakamichi AVP1.
    Front Speakers. DIY Baby Celestion Ditton 66. Surround Speakers. Celestion Ditton 11. Subwoofer. BK Electronics P12 300SB PR.

    Old Gallery. http://theartofsound.net/forum/showt...-of-the-70%92s

  3. #23
    Join Date: Mar 2016

    Location: Reading, UK

    Posts: 18
    I'm Michael.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by walpurgis View Post
    I take it you are referring to the 5" mid in the 44s.

    You could have a look at my recommendation here. It often works'

    http://theartofsound.net/forum/showt...222#post742222
    Yes the 5" mid - I've attached a couple of pics. I want to try your suggestion with the hair dryer but I can't figure out how to get to the voice coil. I took the three screws out the back, but I can't see how to take it apart without cutting the front.

    IMAG1147.jpg IMAG1148.jpg

    Also it appears to be rubbing on every side, so maybe it's just totally knackered?

    Quote Originally Posted by DarrenHW View Post
    Look no further: http://theartofsound.net/forum/showt...F2000-MF500-D5

    PM me if you're interested.
    Great thanks! I spent ages looking on eBay earlier! The ones you have for sale look exactly like what I have. If I can't fix it with the hair dryer, I'll PM you. Thanks!

  4. #24
    Join Date: Sep 2014

    Location: brighton uk.

    Posts: 4,737
    I'm jamie.

    Default

    has this driver always done this or has it happened after you did the recap?
    My System
    John Wood KT88 Amp.
    Paradise Phono Stage
    Sony TTS-8000 Turntable.
    PMAT-1010 MK6 Tonearm.
    Ortofon Cadenza Bronze
    Sony X555ES Cd Player
    Yamaha NS1000m Speakers

  5. #25
    Join Date: Apr 2012

    Location: N E Kent

    Posts: 51,625
    I'm Geoff.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by madders View Post
    Yes the 5" mid - I've attached a couple of pics. I want to try your suggestion with the hair dryer but I can't figure out how to get to the voice coil. I took the three screws out the back, but I can't see how to take it apart without cutting the front.
    My god. What have you done? Put the screws back and do them up tight and just pray the magnet has not decentralised.

    You don't need access to the coil. You just put an elastic band around the coil former which is the tube attached to the back of the cone. Access is through the chassis openings behind the cone.

    The rear spider is the corrugated bit behind the cone.
    It is impossible for anything digital to sound analogue, because it isn't analogue!

  6. #26
    Join Date: Mar 2016

    Location: Reading, UK

    Posts: 18
    I'm Michael.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by walpurgis View Post
    My god. What have you done? Put the screws back and do them up tight and just pray the magnet has not decentralised.

    You don't need access to the coil. You just put an elastic band around the coil former which is the tube attached to the back of the cone. Access is through the chassis openings behind the cone.

    The rear spider is the corrugated bit behind the cone.
    Wow it worked! Despite removing the screws (luckily they went back in ok). And I completely misunderstood your instructions. First I pulled it up and heated it, and it wouldn't go back down. Then when I finally realised what you meant with the elastic band, I was pulling it way too tight. Eventually I realised it only needed pulling very slightly. It's still rubbing a little bit, but there is a huge improvement, and no distortion anymore. I'll have another go tomorrow and see if I can get it perfect. I'm amazed I haven't broken it completely!

  7. #27
    Join Date: Mar 2016

    Location: Reading, UK

    Posts: 18
    I'm Michael.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jamie123 View Post
    has this driver always done this or has it happened after you did the recap?
    I think it must have been the same before the recap. Something didn't sound right, and this must have been the problem. It's very noticeable on piano music, which I didn't listen to before. But I put some on after the recap because I thought it would be good to test the crossover.

  8. #28
    Join Date: Apr 2012

    Location: N E Kent

    Posts: 51,625
    I'm Geoff.

    Default

    That's a relief. Find exactly where the coil is rubbing by pressing gently on the coil former all round and moving the cone backwards and forwards a bit until you get the worst contact noise. The elastic band needs to pull exactly in the opposite direction that you are pressing, but not too strongly. Don't overdo the heat either. Just take everything steadily and do it again if not happy. This dodge will normally work, unless the coil is damaged. Either by overheating from too much power causing the coil coating lacquer to bubble and expand or ovality due to ageing or poor manufacture (and yes, I've seen both).
    It is impossible for anything digital to sound analogue, because it isn't analogue!

  9. #29
    Join Date: Oct 2013

    Location: Wrexham

    Posts: 1,058
    I'm Darren.

    Default

    Sounds like your getting there Michael . Are you aware that periodically rotating the bass driver is recommended to compensate for the surrounds sagging under weight possibly causing rubbing of the voice coil?
    Darren.
    Listening Room.
    UNDER CONSTRUCTION
    Turn Table. Garrard 401, Reso Mat, 2 Tier Slate Plinth, DIY Hadcock GH242, Nick G modded Lentek, Denon DL-103.
    Pre Amp. Croft Super Micro2. Power Amps Quad 405 Mono Blocks.
    Speakers. TBC

    Home Cinema.
    UNDER CONSTRUCTION
    DAC/Pre Amp. Denon AVC X3700H.
    BDP/Streamer. Panasonic DP-UB820EB / Apple TV4K.
    Display. Optoma UHD51 / DIY False Black Window Screen.
    Power Amps. 2 x Nakamichi AVP1.
    Front Speakers. DIY Baby Celestion Ditton 66. Surround Speakers. Celestion Ditton 11. Subwoofer. BK Electronics P12 300SB PR.

    Old Gallery. http://theartofsound.net/forum/showt...-of-the-70%92s

  10. #30
    Join Date: Mar 2016

    Location: Reading, UK

    Posts: 18
    I'm Michael.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DarrenHW View Post
    Sounds like your getting there Michael . Are you aware that periodically rotating the bass driver is recommended to compensate for the surrounds sagging under weight possibly causing rubbing of the voice coil?
    Hi Darren - yes I've read that a few times, but I didn't look which way round they were before I took them out! I have put them back with the wires at the top, I think it's most likely they were at the bottom before.

+ Reply to Thread
Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •