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Thread: Macca's Lash Up 2: Lash Harder

  1. #351
    Join Date: Aug 2009

    Location: Staffordshire, England

    Posts: 14,970
    I'm Martin.

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    Thanks Stephen, that is useful information. I guess a lot of these have been junked over the years when they could have been easily repaired, because it was automatically assumed to be a failed laser. It is a shame that the myth that a laser wear out like a stylus does still gets propagated. A lot of good players gone to the tip due to that.

    Do you have a link to the replacement switches?
    Martin



    Current Lash Up:

    Technics SL1200 with Sumiko h/s & Nagaoka MP50 * Firebottle valve MM phono stage * Parasound CDPi1000 * NVA P90SA passive pre / Krell KSA50S Power amp * JM Lab Electra 926 loudspeakers *


  2. #352
    Join Date: Jul 2009

    Location: Hampshire, UK

    Posts: 1,778
    I'm Buriedunderaloadofturntables.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Kipling View Post
    Nothing very radical in the BBC modified version. This small board is it:


    Adds function to the start fader (not sure what, as mine doesn't work. The fader isn't the standard type and has two sets of connections. Don't know if it's just a stereo slider as I haven't took it out yet.

    If you're getting yours fixed, get new tactile switches fitted. They cost nothing really. Replacing them is a bit of a chore (27), but they make a WORLD OF DIFFERENCE to the feel of using it, being a lot, lot, lot more positive in action. The originals feel tired and shagged-out, by comparison. Really worth the trouble.

    The two surface mount capacitors (1uF/33uF) on the motor-drive board will have failed, more than likely. A good chance the lasers will be OK.

    Sent from my CUBOT_NOTE_S using Tapatalk
    Interesting - mine had a completely different main control board inside it and, typically, the fault was somewhere on it.

    Anyway, its long gone now and my current unit is fixed and working - just need to collect it!
    Adam.

  3. #353
    Join Date: Apr 2012

    Location: Co. Durham

    Posts: 1,924
    I'm Stephen.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Macca View Post
    Thanks Stephen, that is useful information. I guess a lot of these have been junked over the years when they could have been easily repaired, because it was automatically assumed to be a failed laser. It is a shame that the myth that a laser wear out like a stylus does still gets propagated. A lot of good players gone to the tip due to that.

    Do you have a link to the replacement switches?
    Aye... Sad. If you put a disc on with graphics that show sections of the bare disc, in the dark, you should be able to see some laser activity.

    The switch is a common item and available from loads of sellers. This one in Leeds is selling 75 for 3.50:

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/371768829014

    I got a "free" pack of 50 from another seller. You can have them, plus 4, if you want, as I don't see them getting used. I have enough to do Jerry's. I started to replace them as a few were dodgy on one player. When I put the control panel back together, I was quite surprised, and pleased, at the difference they made.

    Oh, the only reason I made the offer of a working one for yours was that you said the same thing in a pm quite some time ago with regards Mr Firebottle. If I could have got both working, you would have got one back. I think I have enough, now, and I don't sell stuff. I just hoard it. After Xmas was over I was going to ask if you were any good with a screwdriver? 5 screws retain the cover. 5 more the transport. 2 more the motor-drive board panel under the transport, which unplugs from the main board. I could send a working motor panel to try, and, if lucky, you might get one working.





    Sent from my CUBOT_NOTE_S using Tapatalk
    A Bah-Humbug to the lot of ya.

  4. #354
    Join Date: Apr 2012

    Location: Co. Durham

    Posts: 1,924
    I'm Stephen.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Beobloke View Post
    Interesting - mine had a completely different main control board inside it and, typically, the fault was somewhere on it.

    Anyway, its long gone now and my current unit is fixed and working - just need to collect it!
    Well, I'm not expert, just a bodger. Searching around it seems there was 4 variants: standard with captive lead and phonos. "B" (I presume it stands for "Broadcast") with XLRs and balanced panel and power socket. BBC Modified ( B with the fader logic board show previously). ATC. No idea what the letters stand for. This has a further XLR socket and appears to have been the highest grade version. Martin T had one for a short time, but returned it as it was less than reliable.

    The standard item has the main board and a small motor-control and laser-switching panel and a regulator on a flying lead. The main board on the B and BBC (and ATC, probably), contain these. All 3 (and the ATC, probably) have the same power supply/DAC/audio panel. Mine have, anyway.

    Oh, looking for a manual, all there seems to be is that for the standard version. I suppose this reflects what you were saying previously.
    Sent from my CUBOT_NOTE_S using Tapatalk
    A Bah-Humbug to the lot of ya.

  5. #355
    Join Date: Apr 2012

    Location: Co. Durham

    Posts: 1,924
    I'm Stephen.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Macca View Post
    Did you think there was a difference between the standard and the broadcast? I thought so but I got the standard one a while after the broadcast died, so I could never do a proper comparison.
    I've compared the standard one I bought from Jerry to a "B" one. The standard one has had the power supply/DAC/audio panel re-capped with additional caps, improved rectifiers and some metal film resistors - the panel is common to both. The transformers have improved isolation. I presume this is electrically as I couldn't see anything physical when I had a look. An IEC socket was fitted too, all done by TonyC.
    The changes were listed in the thread MartinT started on the 1200, or the first part of this thread. Comparisons were made with a pair of vintage Sennheiser HD424 headphones connected directly. They work really well together.

    Differences between the two were quite apparent, and there were two main ones.

    1) Basically, a layer of crud was removed giving greater access to whatever was going on. A more open window, as they say.

    2) Dynamics. The dynamics of individual instruments became obvious. Cymbals and drums caught my ear in particular.I was listening to a Paul Brady track and was drawn to the drummer's timing, which I'd never really taken that much notice of previously. Now, though, it really stood out, being the foundation of the track.

    And so... Which version sounded best?

    Well, it was the re-capped standard version.

    I know previously you thought the B version was an improvement over the standard one. Just goes to show though that things are never quite what you might expect them to be.

    Sent from my CUBOT_NOTE_S using Tapatalk
    A Bah-Humbug to the lot of ya.

  6. #356
    Join Date: Aug 2009

    Location: Staffordshire, England

    Posts: 14,970
    I'm Martin.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Kipling View Post
    .

    And so... Which version sounded best?

    Well, it was the re-capped standard version.

    I know previously you thought the B version was an improvement over the standard one. Just goes to show though that things are never quite what you might expect them to be.

    Sent from my CUBOT_NOTE_S using Tapatalk
    I did but I wasn't able to compare them back to back. Only bought the standard one after the B died.
    Martin



    Current Lash Up:

    Technics SL1200 with Sumiko h/s & Nagaoka MP50 * Firebottle valve MM phono stage * Parasound CDPi1000 * NVA P90SA passive pre / Krell KSA50S Power amp * JM Lab Electra 926 loudspeakers *


  7. #357
    Join Date: Aug 2009

    Location: Staffordshire, England

    Posts: 14,970
    I'm Martin.

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    New speaker cables just arrived. regular readers will recall I got a significant improvement in the sound by swapping out my daily driver Chord Odyssey 2 cables for some NVA LS1.5 I had lying around from a previous lash-up.

    This removed the glare from the mids and balanced the sound between bass and top, previously the system had been slightly 'toppy'.

    On extended listening, whilst sound quality is now well within satisfactory limits, I did feel that there was a slight overall 'softening' of the sound, barely perceptible most of the time but niggling me still.

    I'd previously had a trial of some of the NVA LS5 cable, which is quite pricey, but I was impressed by it. Have now acquired some second-hand and will slot it in the system tonight. If my theory is right, this should make another improvement all round. If so this will be a major victory in my quest to put together a high end sounding system on a beer budget.

    If my theory is wrong then ... it's back to the drawing board.

    More later.
    Martin



    Current Lash Up:

    Technics SL1200 with Sumiko h/s & Nagaoka MP50 * Firebottle valve MM phono stage * Parasound CDPi1000 * NVA P90SA passive pre / Krell KSA50S Power amp * JM Lab Electra 926 loudspeakers *


  8. #358
    Join Date: Aug 2009

    Location: Staffordshire, England

    Posts: 14,970
    I'm Martin.

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    Okay so having a listen now to The Doors 'LA Woman' re-mastered cd. This is one I've had for years, a good test since this album on any format can sound rough if there are issues with the system. I've had it sounding quite unpleasant in the past an also heard it sound hard, harsh and aggressive on spendy vinyl set ups too.

    There is an improvement, not exactly what I was expecting, sort of half what I was expecting plus a drop in noise that is quite marked. I say 'noise', but subjectively t is more of a 'mush'. Not night and day. Quiet sounds in the mix are more easily audible, like cymbals on the opening to the title track. Need to listen to more and different material to get a better idea though. Can't judge on a few tracks. What appears to be an improvement to begin with can always turn bad when you play a particular favourite and it sounds wrong despite everything you played previously sounding good.

    I had thought the bass would come out a bit more, bit disappointed by that since last time I tried these cables they did wonders on the bass of some KEF Calindas, and others have noticed that too. Although LA Woman is not a very bassy album.

    Anyways back to the listening.

    Cables are much thicker than the old ones too so the Krell will like that I should think.
    Martin



    Current Lash Up:

    Technics SL1200 with Sumiko h/s & Nagaoka MP50 * Firebottle valve MM phono stage * Parasound CDPi1000 * NVA P90SA passive pre / Krell KSA50S Power amp * JM Lab Electra 926 loudspeakers *


  9. #359
    Join Date: Sep 2014

    Location: Northern Ireland

    Posts: 404
    I'm John.

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    What length do you need for speaker cables Martin?

  10. #360
    Join Date: Aug 2009

    Location: Staffordshire, England

    Posts: 14,970
    I'm Martin.

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    3 metres.
    Martin



    Current Lash Up:

    Technics SL1200 with Sumiko h/s & Nagaoka MP50 * Firebottle valve MM phono stage * Parasound CDPi1000 * NVA P90SA passive pre / Krell KSA50S Power amp * JM Lab Electra 926 loudspeakers *


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