Help needed :)

[walpurgis]

Note. The perforated cover on the HF2000 tweeters is good protection for the fragile domes and is also necessary for the correct performance of the unit. It is held in place with thin double sided adhesive tape, Which is why it falls off after about thirty years, once the adhesive ages and fails.

[nikmak]

Note. The perforated cover on the HF2000 tweeters is good protection for the fragile domes and is also necessary for the correct performance of the unit. It is held in place with thin double sided adhesive tape, Which is why it falls off after about thirty years, once the adhesive ages and fails.

Currently like this.

http://postimg.org/image/q71yopdx3/

Any particular adhesive tape I should use? Btw, thanks for that ebay link.

This was my main reason for bidding on the auction.... http://postimg.org/image/6rul99ts7/

All in all £20!!! So probably did ok!

[Arkless Electronics]

Around 5.6 Ohm is a good average for what you'll normally measure for an 8 Ohm unit. It can of course vary so I wouldn't worry so long as it's between 5.2 and 7.
When reading low ohms the meter will often add an ohm or two so it's best to check what you are getting for shorted meter probes. Plug/unplug leads a few times and give the selector switch on the meter a bit of exercise to get it lower
Personally I would be tempted to leave the speaker connectors as standard for originality. If they are treated with contact cleaner and given a good checking out they shouldn't be any impediment to sound quality IMHO, a good connection's a good connection whether or not it's massive and gold plated.
These should be very good speakers when sorted! Oh yeah crossover caps if electrolytic may be due replacement by now for best results....

[walpurgis]

Can you even tell which wire is 'positive'? I'd definitely use a modern terminal set here. And maybe rewire with something decent. As Jez says, new capacitors (of suitable type) may benefit.

A pair of these terminal sets could do the trick at modest cost: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Large-Spea...8AAOSwEK9T5Nsv

You can of course spend more.

[nikmak]

Thanks Jez and Geoff. Ordered the KEF radiators today, so guess I'll be keeping them after all! Still need to buy dust caps, so any recommendations them would be helpful. I'll think about the terminals and capacitors at a later stage. Ultimately this is my first project so I'll keep it one stage at a time

Also, finally got round to having a look at the 3702's today and took the grills off and the foam has gone on the bass units. Any tips for replacement of those? Worth it? The cabinets are in absolutely pristine condition on these, shame it's not the other way about!

Cheers,Niki

[walpurgis]

Still need to buy dust caps, so any recommendations them would be helpful.

Measure the width where the old dustcaps were and order something of similar size.

I'm not saying these are the right size, but something like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-piece-54...8AAOSwj0NUcpIK

They are from China, so you be waiting a few weeks, but the speakers are perfectly usable without.


You should find generic cone surrounds that will fit the 3702 speakers.


For glueing the caps or surrounds use a water based adhesive like Aleene's: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Aleenes-Or...wAAOSwezVWvbe7

It's what I use for speaker repairs.

[nikmak]

Yes. Updated terminals would be good. Can you show a picture of yours? I can't recall what they were like on those speakers. It'll give me an idea of what modern replacement may suit.

You don't need to replace the Philips bass drivers, just replace the dustcaps!

You are in luck. There's a late pair of KEF BD139 units with rubber surrounds on eBay now at a sensible £29.99.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pair-of-Ke...MAAOSw3ydVibdo

They look slightly different, but will fit and work fine.

Hi Back again. Getting round to starting this project and unpackaged the KEF radiators for the first time. I notice they are a different size from the original radiators. When you say they will fit fine, did you mean just use them as they are or strip the rubber out and renovate the original Beovox radiators? #confused!

[walpurgis]

The later BD139s have a different shaped frame edge, That's all, but the mounting holes are still in the same position. Use them as they are. They should bolt straight in. Do not strip them. They'll be ruined.

[nikmak]

The later BD139s have a different shaped frame edge, That's all, but the mounting holes are still in the same position. Use them as they are. They should bolt straight in. Do not strip them. They'll be ruined.

Thanks again

[nikmak]

Ok back again!

So, I still haven't finished this project. I've been planning to offload the speakers but haven't really had any bites so far so I think I am going to repair them properly. I bought the Kef BD139 and put them on to the speaker. This was an error as they just don't look right. I adapted some strong card(yes i know) to fill in the gaps left by the oval shaped 'kef b139 sp1037' radiators (originals) and it all looks a bit naff.

What I'd like to do now is repair my original oval 'B139 SP1037' Kef radiators and put them back on instead of the makeshift BD139. Can somebody put me in the right direction for doing this? Getting a replacement foam, getting the correct adhesive etc. I have a had a google search but didn't really come up with anything definitive.
Thanks!