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Thread: My Thorens TD 124 Mk1 - restoration project

  1. #21
    Join Date: May 2009

    Location: Stäfa (near Zürich), Switzerland

    Posts: 308
    I'm Richard.

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    I also bought a TD124/I a few weeks back - bought as refurbished, but I really didn't expect it to be as the motor rivets were still in place. However, the thing is damned silent standing on it's bolts on a wooden table. I need to mount an arm and test it out soon, but am still looking for a cost effective plinth.

    I'd suggest stripping/cleaning/relubing everything as a first steps, and to then assess what needs to be done depending on how it runs.

    Mine;




    Richard

  2. #22
    Join Date: Jun 2014

    Location: Italy

    Posts: 228
    I'm Eugenio.

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    Hi Richard,

    regarding the plinth my favourite is the Ortofon-ST104 style, but it's quite expensive...


    I haven't find one for less than 300 euro...
    My system:
    Analog sources: Basis 2001 signature + Vector 4 tonearm
    Cartridges: koetsu Urushi Vermilion, Transfiguration Spirit, Ortofon MC-20 Super, Denon DL-103 SA
    Digital source: Denon DVD A1 (modified by Aurion Audio) - Apple Mac Mini + Schiit Eitr
    Phonostage: DIY Ear 834 clone + Denon HA 1000
    Power Amp: Dsonic M3a-1500M *2
    Preamp: Grandinote Proemio
    Loudspeakers: Proac EBS

  3. #23
    Join Date: Sep 2009

    Location: Derbyshire

    Posts: 9,228
    I'm Josie.

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    Agreed, get the mechanics working well first.
    Ultrafide U500DC power amplifier - Croft Vitale )highly modified) - TRIO L-07D Turntable - Denon DL103C1 - Funk Firm Houdini - Lentek MC head amp - 15" Tannoy Monitor Gold Loudspeakers in Lockwood Major cabinets (From Trident Studios) - Tannoyista SPEC 3 Custom Crossovers - VanDamme Black Speaker Cable


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  4. #24
    Join Date: Jan 2009

    Location: Norwich

    Posts: 2,814
    I'm Hugo.

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    Quote Originally Posted by eu_73 View Post
    Hi Richard,

    regarding the plinth my favourite is the Ortofon-ST104 style, but it's quite expensive...


    I haven't find one for less than 300 euro...
    You will not find one for that price, even a wreck. I have an original ST104 that cost more than twice that, but it is in fantastic condition.

  5. #25
    Join Date: Jun 2014

    Location: Italy

    Posts: 228
    I'm Eugenio.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ammonite Acoustics View Post
    You will not find one for that price, even a wreck. I have an original ST104 that cost more than twice that, but it is in fantastic condition.
    Hello Hugo,

    just a question: the original one is in real wood or in MDF / HDF?
    My system:
    Analog sources: Basis 2001 signature + Vector 4 tonearm
    Cartridges: koetsu Urushi Vermilion, Transfiguration Spirit, Ortofon MC-20 Super, Denon DL-103 SA
    Digital source: Denon DVD A1 (modified by Aurion Audio) - Apple Mac Mini + Schiit Eitr
    Phonostage: DIY Ear 834 clone + Denon HA 1000
    Power Amp: Dsonic M3a-1500M *2
    Preamp: Grandinote Proemio
    Loudspeakers: Proac EBS

  6. #26
    Join Date: May 2009

    Location: Stäfa (near Zürich), Switzerland

    Posts: 308
    I'm Richard.

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    Lovely plinth, but beyond my budget I guess...

  7. #27
    Join Date: Sep 2009

    Location: Derbyshire

    Posts: 9,228
    I'm Josie.

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    Mine is one from Schopper... nicely made and looks identical to the original Ortofon. The arm board too!
    Ultrafide U500DC power amplifier - Croft Vitale )highly modified) - TRIO L-07D Turntable - Denon DL103C1 - Funk Firm Houdini - Lentek MC head amp - 15" Tannoy Monitor Gold Loudspeakers in Lockwood Major cabinets (From Trident Studios) - Tannoyista SPEC 3 Custom Crossovers - VanDamme Black Speaker Cable


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  8. #28
    Join Date: Jan 2009

    Location: Essex

    Posts: 31,853
    I'm openingabottleofwine.

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    Quote Originally Posted by dowser View Post
    I also bought a TD124/I a few weeks back - bought as refurbished, but I really didn't expect it to be as the motor rivets were still in place. However, the thing is damned silent standing on it's bolts on a wooden table. I need to mount an arm and test it out soon, but am still looking for a cost effective plinth.

    I'd suggest stripping/cleaning/relubing everything as a first steps, and to then assess what needs to be done depending on how it runs.

    Mine;




    Richard
    Aggh! You have separated the platter bearing shaft from the platter! The two should never be separated as Thorens will have gone to the trouble of adjusting for minimum run-out and balance.
    Barry

  9. #29
    Join Date: Sep 2009

    Location: Derbyshire

    Posts: 9,228
    I'm Josie.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Barry View Post
    Aggh! You have separated the platter bearing shaft from the platter! The two should never be separated as Thorens will have gone to the trouble of adjusting for minimum run-out and balance.
    lol... I heard about this before. I do that all the time for maintenance... It will balance up fine, don't worry. I've never had any problems.
    Ultrafide U500DC power amplifier - Croft Vitale )highly modified) - TRIO L-07D Turntable - Denon DL103C1 - Funk Firm Houdini - Lentek MC head amp - 15" Tannoy Monitor Gold Loudspeakers in Lockwood Major cabinets (From Trident Studios) - Tannoyista SPEC 3 Custom Crossovers - VanDamme Black Speaker Cable


    Tannoyista.com

    Facebook

  10. #30
    Join Date: Jan 2009

    Location: Norwich

    Posts: 2,814
    I'm Hugo.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Barry View Post
    Aggh! You have separated the platter bearing shaft from the platter! The two should never be separated as Thorens will have gone to the trouble of adjusting for minimum run-out and balance.
    Does that apply to a Mk1? IIRC the Mk1 iron platter does not have any scope for such adjustment - it just slides over the bearing stub, as the picture above shows. The Mk2 alloy platter is a different matter, but the inner idler surface and the outer edge of the platter are actually machined together to have the same concentricity. So, it's very easy to set the run-out by using a simple reference point against the platter edge. You can get really obsessive with a run-out gauge, but the blade of a small screwdriver, placed with blu-tak against the platter edge, and a good pair of eyes is good enough to give the necessary reference, and gently tapping the platter one way or the other results in perfectly true running within a minute or so. IMO, separating the bearing shaft from the platter is exactly what you should do - it's far too easy to damage the bearing trying to insert the shaft and platter together, compared to carefully inserting the shaft on its own.

    The new Swissonor non-magnetic ferrous platter (which I use on my TD-124) has the same snug-fit over the bearing stub as the Mk1 platter. Why Thorens made the Mk2 platter the way they did is beyond me. A Lenco platter is far better designed and made.


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