Originally Posted by User211
Even the head of the bolt doesn't look tightened - it is way above the headshell.
Sorry Jerry, but...
1 bolt and not tightened? No way that would stay on!
Tight as a tight thing, mate.
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Even the head of the bolt doesn't look tightened - it is way above the headshell.
Sorry Jerry, but...
1 bolt and not tightened? No way that would stay on!
Tight as a tight thing, mate.
.
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I'm Justin.
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I'm Alex.
At the risk of sticking my oar in, probably not a good idea to have one screw (or bolt), even though tight, holding the cartridge. Small risk of distorting the cartridge body. Best, in my view, not to tighten cartridge screws too much. I think, though not sure, that I've seen mention of that in cartridge instructions.
Spendorman
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Yup, I'd go along with that, Alex. It's certainly going to sound better with two screws properly fitted, whenever that happens!
Marco.
Main System
Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & reg mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat/Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight/Isonoe feet & boots/Ortofon RS-212D/Denon DL-103GL in Denon PCL-300 headshell with Funk Firm Houdini/Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.
Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp/Denon AU-310 SUT.
Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.
CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.
Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new, by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.
Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. LDR Stereo Coffee. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.
Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.
Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.
Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.
Protect your HUMAN RIGHTS and REFUSE ANY *MANDATORY* VACCINE FOR COVID-19!
Also **SAY NO** to unjust 'vaccine passports' or certificates, which are totally incompatible with a FREE society!!!
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Yep, next time it is played t'will be with stereophonic bolts.
I'm not expecting the sound to change, tbh. But as Alex says, symmetric mechanical load on the cart body will be safer.
.
Site Owner/Administrator
Location: Wrexham, North Wales, UK
Posts: 110,012
I'm AudioAl'sArbiterForPISHANTO.
Do yourself a favour, mono screw-boy, and get yourself a set of these (from our very own Paul Stewart) - IMO, the best cartridge mounting kit bar none:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1917037838...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
They use 'specially selected' non-magnetic stainless steel, which I've found (quite surprisingly) improves sound quality!
Marco.
Main System
Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & reg mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat/Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight/Isonoe feet & boots/Ortofon RS-212D/Denon DL-103GL in Denon PCL-300 headshell with Funk Firm Houdini/Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.
Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp/Denon AU-310 SUT.
Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.
CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.
Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new, by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.
Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. LDR Stereo Coffee. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.
Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.
Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.
Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.
Protect your HUMAN RIGHTS and REFUSE ANY *MANDATORY* VACCINE FOR COVID-19!
Also **SAY NO** to unjust 'vaccine passports' or certificates, which are totally incompatible with a FREE society!!!
Senior Member
Location: Middlesex, UK
Posts: 4,482
I'm Alex.
This is taxing my failing memory, but didn’t SME supply aluminium and / or nylon screws. Also I seem to remember thin nylon washers to go under the screw heads so as to stop the headshell paint being damaged.
Spendorman
Senior Member
Location: Middlesex, UK
Posts: 4,482
I'm Alex.
Diamagnetic? unless I got my physics wrong, quite possible as it was about 1965 I did physicsDo yourself a favour, mono screw-boy, and get yourself a set of these (from our very own Paul Stewart) - IMO, the best cartridge mounting kit bar none:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1917037838...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
They use 'specially selected' non-magnetic stainless steel, which I've found (quite surprisingly) improves sound quality!
Marco.
Spendorman
Senior Member
Location: gone
Posts: 11,519
I'm gone.
Damn - can't find my box'o'bits for cartridge shenanigans.
So I need a new set of nuts & bolts anyway -- ordered!
Will play with them at the weekend.
.
Senior Member
Location: Nothamptonshire
Posts: 164
I'm Sharif.
That'll be interesting, Sharif. Look forward to reading your observations
Marco.
I've been try to get the Rega RB300 tonearm and the GP390 to work.
So far I've try using a 1g shim with a penny on top of the headshell but still the counter weight hang to far back.
Did Rega make a heavier counter weight? The one I have is about 35mm dia 12mm thick and look like it made from stainless steel.
Even with a Ortofon 2M Blue it right at the back of the stub.
I'm using the counter weight to set up the VTA not the spring dial VTF adjuster.
Sharif.
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