Dual 1019

[Canetoad]

The mechanical side of it is the reason I bought mine. I just love the way the automatic mechanism works! Mine is a future project. I'd love to install it in and old radiogram cabinet like my grandfather used to have and use modern amplification etc. hidden inside.

When ever I see somebody else with a 1019 I'm reminded I have to get stuck into mine.

[Gordon Steadman]

The mechanical side of it is the reason I bought mine. I just love the way the automatic mechanism works! Mine is a future project. I'd love to install it in and old radiogram cabinet like my grandfather used to have and use modern amplification etc. hidden inside.

When ever I see somebody else with a 1019 I'm reminded I have to get stuck into mine.

I got it to try and rediscover what it was about idler drives I used to love. As soon as I got it working I knew. Everything about the presentation is just right. However, talking to the VE forum, you would think that this is some priceless antique and they venerate the object rather than what it can do. The assumption is that I could afford to spend whatever it takes to get it 100%. If that were the case, then I wouldn't have bought a cheap, rather well used example. Some of the auto functions are not working quite right and I find that frustrating when I just want to listen to the damn thing.

Right now, I have a TT that I am almost happy with. If the bits that don't work are stripped out, I will have one that I am very happy with.

I prefer the sound to the Origin Live TT. So I will do to this whatever I fancy doing, if that makes it non original then tough titty to the purists, you do your thing and I'll do mine

[Canetoad]

Of course. I wasn't trying to talk you out of it Gordo!

to you too!

[Mr Kipling]

I got it to try and rediscover what it was about idler drives I used to love. As soon as I got it working I knew. Everything about the presentation is just right. However, talking to the VE forum, you would think that this is some priceless antique and they venerate the object rather than what it can do. The assumption is that I could afford to spend whatever it takes to get it 100%. If that were the case, then I wouldn't have bought a cheap, rather well used example. Some of the auto functions are not working quite right and I find that frustrating when I just want to listen to the damn thing.

Right now, I have a TT that I am almost happy with. If the bits that don't work are stripped out, I will have one that I am very happy with.

I prefer the sound to the Origin Live TT. So I will do to this whatever I fancy doing, if that makes it non original then tough titty to the purists, you do your thing and I'll do mine

You Cad, Sir!

You Cad!

[Gordon Steadman]

You Cad, Sir!

You Cad!

Nah, I do it all by hand

[Gordon Steadman]

P.S. You've done surgery on it already I see - Please remember that these are future antiques and as the mechanism is superb once serviced (the auto trip parts are legendary in their sensitivity if they've not been got at or gummed up), I honestly don't believe you'll need to remove anything - A Garrard Autoslim it certainly isn't - and it took the Zero 100 and later models for Garrard to come anywhere near catching up the engineering expertise Dual lavished on all their models from the late 60's to late 70's - and beyond in some models

Dave, this is the bit I have trouble with. They are not past, present, future or any other kind of antique. They are just record players. Superbly well engineered record players but record players never the less. There are lots about. Just about everyone on the VE forum seems to have one and there are loads available on eBay - mostly from Germany at quite high prices. Me fettling mine so it suits me is not going to rob the world of a great artwork. By rewiring the arm, I have solved a problem which means I can use it and haven't in any way spoiled the sound but probably improved it a fraction.

The same will apply if I remove the gubbins for auto. I will keep all the bits in case a future purist decides they want to rebuild it but I want to listen to music, not stare at it lovingly and bow down to Dual engineers in a shrine in the corner.

I intend to service the motor and the idler wheel and make sure the platter bearing is properly lubed but that is as much time as I wish it to be out of action. Its a long time since a deck made me want to listen to all my records again and I just want to get on with it. I very rarely sell my hi-fi bits, so any resale value is an irrelevance to me.

We are back to my bugbear about two different hobbies - one about music, the other about equipment.

[struth]

quite right Gordon. its for listening to musac.

[DSJR]

Gordon, the fact that stuff like this is still working after nearly fifty years is, to me anyway, testament to the fact that they will still be running in another fifty years and there will be millions of vinyl discs still to play on them!

Please excuse my 'religious' fervour with this brand's turntables from this era, I can't help it I'm afraid and the heart rules the head here with me.

The auto mechanism on these suffers from one major issue - gummed up grease (oh yes, and sometimes a flattened steurerpimpel - crumbling away on later models)! The basic mech is very simple to strip out (mainly the main arm-moving lever, which governs up-down and lateral movement, together with the main cam gear, which is also a doddle to remove). Thing is, removing and degreasing the worst of it would bring back full functionality if re-assembled, but as you rightly say, it's yours to do with as you wish - (you should know how Aspergically upset I get at seeing GL75's being torn asunder for the main drive and platter only, to know what I'm like )

In the office/workshop system, I'm currently playing with a 1214 I was given in transit damaged form. This thing was in a terrible state and by rights I should have junked it or stripped it out for sale of the parts. I'm a twonk I know, but I couldn't bring myself to do this, so I found a replacement tonearm and rest, bought a cheap 1216 cast heavier platter (not as heavy as the 1019 one though) and stripped down and cleaned all the excess (added) grease off with an aerosol solvent cleaner (I'm a lazy git, but it did the job). Re-fitting was easy for me apart from the non captive balls in this model's horizontal tonearm bearings (the 1019 and 1216 models have better held captive races).


One final tip before I shuffle away is regarding the main drive and motor. I've been informed that humble EP80 gear oil is quite safe for the main bearing spindle/sleeve and captive thrust assembly (pots of Alvania grease are available from mrow2 on VE) and that the motor uses chrome or similar plating on the rotor spindle. Some circlip pliers can be used to carefully prise the two halves of the motor apart and the main place to check is the bottom of the rotor spindle for excessive wear. there's a 'sacrificial' copper disc at the base of the bottom motor bearing apparently, and this can be usefully turned upside down to present a fresh surface if there's too much wear here.

Apologies again for letting the heart rule the head on this deck. I wouldn't have bothered to post if I didn't know how good these basic decks are - for reproducing music from vinyl records - so please look on me with sympathy...

[Idlewithnodrive]

I've still got my 1019.

It's a lovely little deck for what it costs and performs well above it's price point.



All original except for an interference fit heavy base board (I've kept the original) and some removable damping. The arm is very good and I've had it singing with an AN IQ2, although the limited arm adjustment didn't suit my 2M Black as well.

[Gordon Steadman]

Gordon, the fact that stuff like this is still working after nearly fifty years is, to me anyway, testament to the fact that they will still be running in another fifty years and there will be millions of vinyl discs still to play on them!

Please excuse my 'religious' fervour with this brand's turntables from this era, I can't help it I'm afraid and the heart rules the head here with me.

The auto mechanism on these suffers from one major issue - gummed up grease (oh yes, and sometimes a flattened steurerpimpel - crumbling away on later models)! The basic mech is very simple to strip out (mainly the main arm-moving lever, which governs up-down and lateral movement, together with the main cam gear, which is also a doddle to remove). Thing is, removing and degreasing the worst of it would bring back full functionality if re-assembled, but as you rightly say, it's yours to do with as you wish - (you should know how Aspergically upset I get at seeing GL75's being torn asunder for the main drive and platter only, to know what I'm like )

In the office/workshop system, I'm currently playing with a 1214 I was given in transit damaged form. This thing was in a terrible state and by rights I should have junked it or stripped it out for sale of the parts. I'm a twonk I know, but I couldn't bring myself to do this, so I found a replacement tonearm and rest, bought a cheap 1216 cast heavier platter (not as heavy as the 1019 one though) and stripped down and cleaned all the excess (added) grease off with an aerosol solvent cleaner (I'm a lazy git, but it did the job). Re-fitting was easy for me apart from the non captive balls in this model's horizontal tonearm bearings (the 1019 and 1216 models have better held captive races).


One final tip before I shuffle away is regarding the main drive and motor. I've been informed that humble EP80 gear oil is quite safe for the main bearing spindle/sleeve and captive thrust assembly (pots of Alvania grease are available from mrow2 on VE) and that the motor uses chrome or similar plating on the rotor spindle. Some circlip pliers can be used to carefully prise the two halves of the motor apart and the main place to check is the bottom of the rotor spindle for excessive wear. there's a 'sacrificial' copper disc at the base of the bottom motor bearing apparently, and this can be usefully turned upside down to present a fresh surface if there's too much wear here.

Apologies again for letting the heart rule the head on this deck. I wouldn't have bothered to post if I didn't know how good these basic decks are - for reproducing music from vinyl records - so please look on me with sympathy...

Sympathy wending its way

I have carefully put all the parts in a plastic box marked "only to be opened by an audio purist". I have taken the motor apart as per the instructions on VE. The bearings look OK but everything is a bit dry and the idler wheel is polished. I'll need to get some small bolts tomorrow to put the bottom bearing back together. Talking of which, although it doesn't look as if its been apart before, there are two bits mentioned in the instructions that don't exist. All I have is a bottom copper thrust pad, the bearing and the felt ring - which is in perfect condition although completely dry. No split washer or small felt washer. I'm assuming this is just another variation? The copper pad looks not too bad but I'll turn it over anyway.

Without the platter in place the motor was vibrating a bit so hopefully some oil will improve it. Strange that I can even forgive a bit of noise though because the music is so real and solid, its only in the very quiet sections that it is noticeable.

I'm going to go straight to the Technics when its back together so we shall see what we shall see.