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Thread: Upgrade The Tonearm, Why?

  1. #1
    Join Date: Oct 2014

    Location: East Coast USA

    Posts: 96
    I'm Nathan.

    Question Upgrade The Tonearm, Why?

    I'll ask the question here in a more Techie friendly forum. What exactly is it that makes a better tonearm, better? Replacing the stock tonearm seems to be a worthwhile mod because many have done it and heartily recommend it. Just what benefit does a better quality tonearm give? Excuse me if this seems like a silly question but I'm new to modding turntables and just trying to learn.

  2. #2
    Join Date: Oct 2012

    Location: Napier, New Zealand

    Posts: 1,519
    I'm Andrei.

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    There are many issues as to tonearm quality, and some issues as to features. For quality a good starting point is the Origin Live website: http://www.originlive.com/tonearms-overview.html
    They do sell tonearms and also very much talk the talk but even so ...
    [COLOR=#a52a2a][B]Sources:[/B] [B]1[/B][/COLOR] PC & Wyred4Sound DAC-2 DSDse   [COLOR=#a52a2a][B]2[/B][/COLOR] Oppo BDP105   [COLOR=#a52a2a][B]3[/B][/COLOR] Technics SL·1210 MK5 (Jelco 750D · Benz Wood).    [COLOR=#a52a2a][B]Speaker Cable[/B][/COLOR] [COLOR=black]Nordost Frey.[/COLOR]    [COLOR=#a52a2a][B]Interconnects [/B][/COLOR][COLOR=#000000]Oyaide[/COLOR][COLOR=black] & [/COLOR][COLOR=#000000]Geisha [/COLOR][COLOR=black]Silver.
    [/COLOR][B][COLOR=#a52a2a]Phono Stage [/COLOR][/B][COLOR=black]Fosgate Signature V2. [/COLOR]   [COLOR=#a52a2a][B]Preamp [/B][/COLOR][COLOR=#000000]Ayon Eris[/COLOR][COLOR=black]. [/COLOR]   [COLOR=#a52a2a][B]Power Amp[/B][/COLOR] [COLOR=Black]ATC P1. [/COLOR]  ​ [COLOR=#a52a2a][B]Speakers[/B][/COLOR] Triangle Magellan Cello.     [COLOR=#A9A9A9]Oh Sting, where is thy death?[/COLOR]

  3. #3
    Join Date: May 2012

    Location: Toulouse, France

    Posts: 6,563
    I'm Kevin.

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    The tonearm is the interface that supports the cartridge.
    You want to minimise any unwanted vibration being transferred to the cartridge/stylus as this will affect the information retrieved from the record surface, and therefore sound quality.
    Kevin

    Too busy enjoying the music....

    European loan coordinator for Graham Slee HiFi system components..

  4. #4
    Join Date: Apr 2013

    Location: Granes - Haut Vallee de l'aude - EU

    Posts: 2,831
    I'm Richard.

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    It sort of begs the question "what does it matter which turntable I use?". The implication being all that matters is robust reliable construction and a stable rotational speed. (the obvious distinguishing features of the sl1200).which would render all the other mods discussed somewhere between exotic fantasy and nerdy tweaking.

    In fact, the key job of the turntable - the arm and the motor unit, is to let the cartridge work as an electrical generator accurately. Since the cartridge works by generating electricity when the stylus, via the cantilever moves a magnet on the other end in some coils of wire (or vice versa for mc) the key is to make sure that they stay still. At a microscopic level. But, environmental factors feed energy into both the platter/mat which the record is sitting on, and the arm which is holding the cartridge. And that energy wiggles the stylus and produces unwanted electricity from the cartridge which muddies and confuses the electrical signal we wanted.

    Prove this to yourself. Clean your stylus with the amp switched on and listen to the noise. Then, rest the stylus on a record and tap the record (whilst the tt is not spinning). Your tapping energy makes noise through the speakers. Often you can talk loudly at the stylus and hear it play through the speakers (better with headphones - if you hear it easily through the speakers you are often close to howl around). Try tapping the plinth with a screwdriver and see if you can hear it "played" by the cartridge.

    And in addition to external unwanted energy fed into this mechanical system the turntable generates a relatively huge amount of its own. Especially the stylus dragged through the groove. Turn off your amp, play a record, put your ear near the record and listen to the "needle chatter".
    How your record player deals with that unwanted energy (as opposed to the wanted energy of the record groove moving the stylus) affects how your music sounds.

    As the origon post notes, damping as a solution has some serious limitations. They affect platters and mats as much as arms.

  5. #5
    Join Date: Apr 2011

    Location: Surrey

    Posts: 4,162
    I'm Mike.

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    Modding any kit can improve sound quality

    I went from Jelco on my Tech to a Fidelity Research
    Big jump - admittedly the FR had one of Speedy Steve's arm boards. Tested both at his place as he is competent at such things and I less so
    TAD CD / DAC / Pre, Technics 1210, MCRU PSU, Mike New Bearing & Platter, Stillpoints LP1 weight, Speedy Steve Ebony armboard, Fidelity Research FR64FX arm, Ortofon SPU. Aurorasound VIDA Phono Pre Amp, TAD Power Amp, TAD E1 speakers. Coherent RTZ 3 Grounding box, Coherent grounding cables, Creaktiv racks. Coherent Mains Cables. SR Blue Fuse. Interconnects : Coherent and Yannis 223.5 Connect Litz. Coherent speaker cable. Audio Magic Transcendence Conditioner. Coherent mains socket. Mains Filters : , PS Audio Harvesters, Russ Andrews Purifiers, Tacima, Vertex. Black Ravioli and RDC supports. Electric Beach S1NX platforms for TAD CD and Technics. Ferrite chokes everywhere except the above. Ears, brain

    Mike

  6. #6
    Join Date: Nov 2013

    Location: Fredrikstad, Norway

    Posts: 236
    I'm Chris.

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    I asked the same question a while back.

    First I upgraded the internal wires to KAB Cardas wires. That was really a big upgrade here.
    Then I bought the KAB Fluid Damper. Not a huge difference, but bass was now tighter and midrange a little cleaner. But, the total upgrade of those two, was HUGE compared to standard. And most will be happy with those two upgrades.

    I wanted to take it a bit further, so this summer I upgraded to a IsoKinetik Silver Melody tonearm. And boy! It blew the original KAB arm away! Tighter deeper bass, clearer midrange and voices and beutiful smooth highs! But it's an expensive arm. But for me it was wourth it.

    Turntable 1: Technics SL1210M5G/ KAB PSU/ KAB Fluid Damper
    Turntable 2: Rega P3 (new) Tangospinner & dual belt/ Rega Neo
    Amplifier: Rega Elex-R
    RIAA: Rega Fono mk3 & Schiit Mani
    Speaker: Klipsch RP280f
    Cartridge: Rega Exact & Nagaoka MP-110

  7. #7
    Join Date: Apr 2012

    Location: N E Kent

    Posts: 51,625
    I'm Geoff.

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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeMusic View Post
    Modding any kit can improve sound quality
    Or destroy it!

    You have to be careful.
    It is impossible for anything digital to sound analogue, because it isn't analogue!

  8. #8
    Join Date: Dec 2013

    Location: Lincoln UK

    Posts: 566
    I'm Mark.

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    In the good old days !!! There were dealers never too far away who would happily dem the difference a tonearm made but not sure how easy that would be now ! I guess it's chatting on here to find the answers but for me if you like the deck and it's worth spending on a dearer arm go for the best you can afford. I bought the SME V when I only intended to stretch to the IV and have never regretted the decision or felt the need to try anything else it's ease of use and set up has made changing cartridges a doddle.
    Life long music lover and Hi-Fi enthusiast for over 40 years, avid live music supporter, dismayed by the current dynamic ticket pricing applied to so many events !!



  9. #9
    Join Date: Apr 2011

    Location: Surrey

    Posts: 4,162
    I'm Mike.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by walpurgis View Post
    Or destroy it!

    You have to be careful.
    Outside the box with things others use.
    Going in or doing 'brave' things not for me
    TAD CD / DAC / Pre, Technics 1210, MCRU PSU, Mike New Bearing & Platter, Stillpoints LP1 weight, Speedy Steve Ebony armboard, Fidelity Research FR64FX arm, Ortofon SPU. Aurorasound VIDA Phono Pre Amp, TAD Power Amp, TAD E1 speakers. Coherent RTZ 3 Grounding box, Coherent grounding cables, Creaktiv racks. Coherent Mains Cables. SR Blue Fuse. Interconnects : Coherent and Yannis 223.5 Connect Litz. Coherent speaker cable. Audio Magic Transcendence Conditioner. Coherent mains socket. Mains Filters : , PS Audio Harvesters, Russ Andrews Purifiers, Tacima, Vertex. Black Ravioli and RDC supports. Electric Beach S1NX platforms for TAD CD and Technics. Ferrite chokes everywhere except the above. Ears, brain

    Mike

  10. #10
    Join Date: Dec 2013

    Location: Lincoln UK

    Posts: 566
    I'm Mark.

    Default

    I have to agree that DIY tonearm re wiring etc is not for me ! I remember a retired engineer coming into Chantey Audio with a shoe box contains the various parts of disassembled SME which despite his best efforts he had been unable to re-assemble after attempting a rewire! Fortunately the nice folks at SME obliged at a very reasonable cost from memory so I thinks it's definitely a case of leave well alone for most of us! Although the Internet is a wonderful source of "how to" guides.
    Life long music lover and Hi-Fi enthusiast for over 40 years, avid live music supporter, dismayed by the current dynamic ticket pricing applied to so many events !!



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