My Technics SL-1210Mk2 journey - advice needed . . .

[Wookii]

Hi All,

I'm new to this forum, and joined due to the obvious weath of Technics knowledge available here.

Being a child of the digital generation (despite growing up listening to my parents playing Carpenters LP's and other 60's and 70's records) I have only ever had digital sources. Until recently when a friend lent me one of his Technics SL-1210Mk2 turntables.

I have been blown away by the sound quality, and the organic sound it produces - so I bought the deck off him, and have been contently listening to it for several months. It has been my plan to buy a new deck, such as a Brinkmann Bardo or Oasis, until I discovered all the modifications that can be completed on the Technics (courtesy of this forum), to bring its performance up to a similar or even better level of performance than those TT's.

I have therefore decided to go all out and modify my Technics as far as possible. So far I have decided to go for the following options:

- Mike New Bearing and Plate
- Mike New ETP Platter
- Paul Hynes SR7EHD-21/27 PSU
- Paul Hynes voltage regulator mods and internal silver wiring
- Acoustand plinth with Isonoe feet and shoes
- Output cable rewire
- Removal of pitch control
- Removal/disabling of strobe circuit
- Replacement of LED's (aesthetics only)
- Respray of top cover + general tarting up of all buttons etc (aesthetics only)
- Tonearm - I want to try and keep the original Tonearm, to at least have a few elements faithful to the original design, so I intend to add internal and external damping and rewire either with Cardas or with some bespoke silver/gold cabling.
- Headshell - this will of course depend on the cart, but I will get an upgraded headshell to suit

So, there are a few queries I need some help with:

1. Perhaps most importantly, what cart should I go for? I'm happy to spend up to around £1,500 on a good cart and headshell. I have a preference for a clearly etched and detailed presentation, I don't like a soft, honey coloured presentation that I know many people prefer their analogue to sound. However I want to maximise soundstage size as much as possible.

Carts I have considered so far are:
- Ortofon: SPU Royal GM Mk2' or SPU Silver Meister GM Mk2' or possibly (slightly lower in price) 2M Black
- Audio Technica AT50ANV
- Lyra Kleos

I'd welcome any suggestions in that sort of price range (or indeed performance range - I know price isn't always an indicator!)

2. Regarding the respray I will be having done on the top cover, I want to be able to add the Technics lettering back in afterwards. I have seen that there are stickers and plates available on eBay, but I really wanted the lettering straight onto the paintwork. As I understand it, that leaves silk screening or tampon stamping (stop sniggering!) as available options. Does anyone have any contacts for places that can do this on one off items?

3. Regarding the tonearm. I have read that the stock arm is pretty decent as is, and that adding additional damping and rewire with high quality cabling will take its performance up even higher. That said, will I be holding performance back by going this route, is there really a noticeable difference in replacing such a modified arm with a stock arm from another manufacturer?

4. Finally, have I missed anything obvious on the modding side? Please feel free to offer any other advice or suggestions.

Many thanks in advance.

[RobbieGong]

Hi All,

I'm new to this forum, and joined due to the obvious weath of Technics knowledge available here.

Being a child of the digital generation (despite growing up listening to my parents playing Carpenters LP's and other 60's and 70's records) I have only ever had digital sources. Until recently when a friend lent me one of his Technics SL-1210Mk2 turntables.

I have been blown away by the sound quality, and the organic sound it produces - so I bought the deck off him, and have been contently listening to it for several months. It has been my plan to buy a new deck, such as a Brinkmann Bardo or Oasis, until I discovered all the modifications that can be completed on the Technics (courtesy of this forum), to bring its performance up to a similar or even better level of performance than those TT's.

I have therefore decided to go all out and modify my Technics as far as possible. So far I have decided to go for the following options:

- Mike New Bearing and Plate
- Mike New ETP Platter
- Paul Hynes SR7EHD-21/27 PSU
- Paul Hynes voltage regulator mods and internal silver wiring
- Acoustand plinth with Isonoe feet and shoes
- Output cable rewire
- Removal of pitch control
- Removal/disabling of strobe circuit
- Replacement of LED's (aesthetics only)
- Respray of top cover + general tarting up of all buttons etc (aesthetics only)
- Tonearm - I want to try and keep the original Tonearm, to at least have a few elements faithful to the original design, so I intend to add internal and external damping and rewire either with Cardas or with some bespoke silver/gold cabling.
- Headshell - this will of course depend on the cart, but I will get an upgraded headshell to suit

So, there are a few queries I need some help with:

1. Perhaps most importantly, what cart should I go for? I'm happy to spend up to around £1,500 on a good cart and headshell. I have a preference for a clearly etched and detailed presentation, I don't like a soft, honey coloured presentation that I know many people prefer their analogue to sound. However I want to maximise soundstage size as much as possible.

Carts I have considered so far are:
- Ortofon: SPU Royal GM Mk2' or SPU Silver Meister GM Mk2' or possibly (slightly lower in price) 2M Black
- Audio Technica AT50ANV
- Lyra Kleos

I'd welcome any suggestions in that sort of price range (or indeed performance range - I know price isn't always an indicator!)

2. Regarding the respray I will be having done on the top cover, I want to be able to add the Technics lettering back in afterwards. I have seen that there are stickers and plates available on eBay, but I really wanted the lettering straight onto the paintwork. As I understand it, that leaves silk screening or tampon stamping (stop sniggering!) as available options. Does anyone have any contacts for places that can do this on one off items?

3. Regarding the tonearm. I have read that the stock arm is pretty decent as is, and that adding additional damping and rewire with high quality cabling will take its performance up even higher. That said, will I be holding performance back by going this route, is there really a noticeable difference in replacing such a modified arm with a stock arm from another manufacturer?

4. Finally, have I missed anything obvious on the modding side? Please feel free to offer any other advice or suggestions.

Many thanks in advance.

Nice one Gareth !! By your list you clearly mean business. Personally, I would recommend that you do actually look at upgrading the arm to balance the other 'proper' upgrades you've decided to undertake ie: MN bearing, base plate, MN ETP platter, SR7 psu and regulation mods - these alone will equote to serious elevation. Keeping the stock arm after all this will hold things back a bit which doesnt make sense to me. I have the MN bearing, (bearing base plate awaiting install when i get a few hours), MN ETP platter, very nice external psu etc etc. I had the stock arm with fluid damper and resonance capat the end of the arm. It was fine but upgrade to a Micro Seiki arm took things to another level for sure. With the level of upgrades you are going for a better arm has to be included in my opinion and experience. With regard to cart - A deck like what you are looking to put together deserves something like the Ortofon Cadenza Black (arm permitting), it's the one I'd definately have if funds permitted. You're £1500 might just do it if you shop around). All the best Gareth and please keep us posted with regular progress and piccies, which we love here.

[Wookii]

Many thanks for your reply Robbie. Can I ask why you recommend the Cadenza Black above any of the others I have listed?

If I was to replace the arm, what would be a good shortlist to consider?

[MikeMusic]

Some serious modding there !

I think you want to change the original arm
I don't know for sure but assume it will let the package down

Next step up could be a Jelco, but you can spend a lot more without wasting your money as you would have so much going on from the rest of the upgrades

[Wakefield Turntables]

Hi All,

I'm new to this forum, and joined due to the obvious weath of Technics knowledge available here.

Being a child of the digital generation (despite growing up listening to my parents playing Carpenters LP's and other 60's and 70's records) I have only ever had digital sources. Until recently when a friend lent me one of his Technics SL-1210Mk2 turntables.

I have been blown away by the sound quality, and the organic sound it produces - so I bought the deck off him, and have been contently listening to it for several months. It has been my plan to buy a new deck, such as a Brinkmann Bardo or Oasis, until I discovered all the modifications that can be completed on the Technics (courtesy of this forum), to bring its performance up to a similar or even better level of performance than those TT's.

I have therefore decided to go all out and modify my Technics as far as possible. So far I have decided to go for the following options:

- Mike New Bearing and Plate
- Mike New ETP Platter
- Paul Hynes SR7EHD-21/27 PSU
- Paul Hynes voltage regulator mods and internal silver wiring
- Acoustand plinth with Isonoe feet and shoes
- Output cable rewire
- Removal of pitch control
- Removal/disabling of strobe circuit
- Replacement of LED's (aesthetics only)
- Respray of top cover + general tarting up of all buttons etc (aesthetics only)
- Tonearm - I want to try and keep the original Tonearm, to at least have a few elements faithful to the original design, so I intend to add internal and external damping and rewire either with Cardas or with some bespoke silver/gold cabling.
- Headshell - this will of course depend on the cart, but I will get an upgraded headshell to suit

So, there are a few queries I need some help with:

1. Perhaps most importantly, what cart should I go for? I'm happy to spend up to around £1,500 on a good cart and headshell. I have a preference for a clearly etched and detailed presentation, I don't like a soft, honey coloured presentation that I know many people prefer their analogue to sound. However I want to maximise soundstage size as much as possible.

Carts I have considered so far are:
- Ortofon: SPU Royal GM Mk2' or SPU Silver Meister GM Mk2' or possibly (slightly lower in price) 2M Black
- Audio Technica AT50ANV
- Lyra Kleos

I'd welcome any suggestions in that sort of price range (or indeed performance range - I know price isn't always an indicator!)

2. Regarding the respray I will be having done on the top cover, I want to be able to add the Technics lettering back in afterwards. I have seen that there are stickers and plates available on eBay, but I really wanted the lettering straight onto the paintwork. As I understand it, that leaves silk screening or tampon stamping (stop sniggering!) as available options. Does anyone have any contacts for places that can do this on one off items?

3. Regarding the tonearm. I have read that the stock arm is pretty decent as is, and that adding additional damping and rewire with high quality cabling will take its performance up even higher. That said, will I be holding performance back by going this route, is there really a noticeable difference in replacing such a modified arm with a stock arm from another manufacturer?

4. Finally, have I missed anything obvious on the modding side? Please feel free to offer any other advice or suggestions.

Many thanks in advance.

Gareth,

You have pretty much listed all the mods I've ever done on my 1210. BUT! I would also recommend the following :-

1. Completely get rid of the pitch slider PCB and fill in the hole on the top plinth.
2. Get rid of the stock tonearm with one of your choice.
3. If your after a Cadenza black I would counsel a ortofon V.
4. If your getting a V get yourself a ebony armboard.
5. Get yourself a Yannis tonearm cable. It beats anything else on the market IMHO.
6. You can remove the power on/off switch if you like.
7. Recap the PCB + remove any components of the PCB
8. Install a sorbothane cradle into the bearing pit to house your MN bearing
9. You can sit your 1210 of sorbothane pads if you like (you dont need to buy expensive footers)
10. If you get the paul hynes PSU, why dont you make a DIY pure silver power lead?

I could go on & on & on!!

Andy

[CageyH]

After spending all that money, it would be a shame not to put a decent arm on it.
It's one of the biggest changes you can make as far as sound quality goes.

[Wookii]

Thanks MikeMusic and CageyH - it seems the concenus then is that the stock arm has got to go, thanks for the recommendation.

[Wookii]

Gareth,

You have pretty much listed all the mods I've ever done on my 1210. BUT! I would also recommend the following :-

Many thanks for such a detailed reply Andy - I'll answer each point separately if that is okay, so I don't lose track:

1. Completely get rid of the pitch slider PCB and fill in the hole on the top plinth.

Yes, sorry that was my plan, I am going to remove it completely and then plate over the hole, and then get it filled and sanded smooth so it's invisible once painted.

2. Get rid of the stock tonearm with one of your choice.

Another vote for a new tonearm then - what would you suggest?

3. If your after a Cadenza black I would counsel a ortofon V.

No, I'm still not decided on a cartridge, there haven't been many suggestions yet, or comments on those I listed, so I want to gather a few opinions and suggested alternatives before I decide.

4. If your getting a V get yourself a ebony armboard.

Why ebony in particular, does this have advantages over, say, aluminium?

5. Get yourself a Yannis tonearm cable. It beats anything else on the market IMHO.

Thanks, I'll look into that. Does that just apply if I kept the stock tone arm, or for any new tone arm also?

6. You can remove the power on/off switch if you like.

I'd prefer to keep that as I intend to keep the LED's and don't want them running all the time.

7. Recap the PCB + remove any components of the PCB

Yes, I forgot to mention that, the board will be recapped with low ESR caps when the regs etc are fitted.

8. Install a sorbothane cradle into the bearing pit to house your MN bearing

Interesting - what does that mod bring to the party? Do you have any more details on it?

9. You can sit your 1210 of sorbothane pads if you like (you dont need to buy expensive footers)

I am having a full plinth made for the deck, and the deck will sit on large sorbo pods inside, the plinth itself will then have Isonoe feet. I want to add them, as I think I will need the suspension they'll provide.

10. If you get the paul hynes PSU, why dont you make a DIY pure silver power lead?

I do tend to make all my own cables, so I may make one up, though it'll more likely by silver plated OFC.

I could go on & on & on!!

Andy

Please do Andy, this is great stuff so far, so if there is anything else please let me know.

I could also do with some more feedback on the cart and arms possibilities from anyone willing!

Thanks,

Gareth

[Wakefield Turntables]

Many thanks for such a detailed reply Andy - I'll answer each point separately if that is okay, so I don't lose track:


Yes, sorry that was my plan, I am going to remove it completely and then plate over the hole, and then get it filled and sanded smooth so it's invisible once painted.



Another vote for a new tonearm then - what would you suggest?



No, I'm still not decided on a cartridge, there haven't been many suggestions yet, or comments on those I listed, so I want to gather a few opinions and suggested alternatives before I decide.




Why ebony in particular, does this have advantages over, say, aluminium?



Thanks, I'll look into that. Does that just apply if I kept the stock tone arm, or for any new tone arm also?



I'd prefer to keep that as I intend to keep the LED's and don't want them running all the time.



Yes, I forgot to mention that, the board will be recapped with low ESR caps when the regs etc are fitted.



Interesting - what does that mod bring to the party? Do you have any more details on it?



I am having a full plinth made for the deck, and the deck will sit on large sorbo pods inside, the plinth itself will then have Isonoe feet. I want to add them, as I think I will need the suspension they'll provide.



I do tend to make all my own cables, so I may make one up, though it'll more likely by silver plated OFC.



Please do Andy, this is great stuff so far, so if there is anything else please let me know.

I could also do with some more feedback on the cart and arms possibilities from anyone willing!

Thanks,

Gareth

OK, just some thoughts regards your tonearm.

I've done the stock tonearm and REGA's and then SME's and that is where I stopped. I love the SME V, some think it sounds limp and too dampened. I think if you get a decent cart like the Cadenza Black and a decent arm like the V you cant go wrong. A lot of people like JELCO's. You will need an arm with a detatchable headshell If you want to try a SPU (I have one on my Garrard 301) but if you get the V you dont have to piss around worrying about them If you get the V, send it to Johnie 7 at audio origami and try a silver re-wire and also try silver cartridge tags. I've tried Audio technica's on my 1210 and didnt like them. I've had several high end Ortofons on mine and loved them all.

A note about tonearm boards. I've had stock arm boards, aluminium, copper and then ebony. Here is my review of what I found.

http://theartofsound.net/forum/showt...ebony+armboard

With regards tonearm cables. You need to speak to Yannis at backbeat promotions. He will give you VERY VERY detailed answers to any questions you might have.

The sorbotrhane cradle (I only managed a 2mm) allows the weight of the PCB and Bearing to sit on the sorbothane and absorb any vibrations going up through the shaft of the bearing. Finally you could buy some car audio dampening material and try this on the underside of the plinth.

PS Forgot to mention, you might want to consider a SUT if you go down the SPU / hi-end ortofon MC cart.

[Andrei]

Hi there and welcome
I will try to cover different points from the others but must agree regarding the arm: I agree with having an arm that is in keeping looks-wise with your TT and thereby wanting to keep the original arm. However you can have your cake and eat it too! SME M2-9 would fit the bill nicely. Or the Jelco 750D - Do not be put off by its low price. It is used not only used by many forum members, but also Feikert, Luxman, and Electrocompaniet on current turntables. Micro Seiki: In my humble opinion theirs are the best looking arms and there is thread here somewhere with a build.
Have you already purchased your TT? If not then the one to go for is an SL 12105G.
Cartridge: not really my area of expertise but I would suggest considering the phono stage at the same time as they need to work together.
Finally one of the things we like on this forum, especially the Techiepedia are pics - so don't be shy.