I think what we are trying to establish now is what damage has the valves in question caused to the amp, which is what i am most concerned with at the moment.
I think what we are trying to establish now is what damage has the valves in question caused to the amp, which is what i am most concerned with at the moment.
"Today scientists have substituted mathematics for experiments, and they wander off through equation after equation, and eventually build a structure which has no relation to reality"
Nikola Tesla
Its now a conspiracy theory to believe that the Immune system is capable of doing the job it was designed to do.
A fish is only as healthy as the water its swimming in ! [Dr Robert Young]
www.tubedistinctions.co.uk
Matthew 5:10
Hi Anthony,
The amp has a main fuse, and a plate fuse (internal) per side. Helpfully, there is an indicator LED that illuminates if the plate fuse is blown. Neither the left or right channel plate fuses are illuminated.
The situation is somewhat confusing as the faulty tube shown above appears to be on the right channel, but the noise is from the left. The valve numbering is somewhat unhelpful as the KT120 output valves n the left channel are numbered V2 ,4,6 & 8 and those i. The right are v, 7,9 & 11. V1 is the 12AU7 phase splitter and V2 and v3 are the left and right channel 6n30pi drivers.
V9 is the faulty valve with the loose bits from the right channel, but the noise was from the left speaker. So my quandary is having replaced V9 with a spare, and then putting them into the left, I still have no sound. I haven't swapped left to right as there may be a faulty valve there too. I'm not sure I now have eight good output tubes, so I am loathe to cause any potential further damage.
I have put the four output tubes from the right channel into the left. Heater supply is up as all of them appear to be glowing, but it could be an HT rail down - does each channel ypically run it's own HT supply?.
Thanks in advance for any advice.
Alex
Technics SL1210| Jelco SA-750| Benz Micro ACE SM MC| Squeezebox Touch/MCRU linear PSU | Cambridge Audio 851C | High Resolution Music Streamer II+ / Linestreamer+ | Raspberry Pi 2/IQ-Audio DAC+ / Max2Play | Conrad-Johnson ET3 Control Amplifier| Conrad-Johnson LP125sa KT120 Power Amplifier| Avalon NP Evo 2.0 Speakers| Cardas Audio Quadlink-5C Speaker Cables and Interconnects| Finite Elemente Pagode Signature E-14 equipment support
"Today scientists have substituted mathematics for experiments, and they wander off through equation after equation, and eventually build a structure which has no relation to reality"
Nikola Tesla
Its now a conspiracy theory to believe that the Immune system is capable of doing the job it was designed to do.
A fish is only as healthy as the water its swimming in ! [Dr Robert Young]
www.tubedistinctions.co.uk
Matthew 5:10
If its the CJ then sadly I don't see a new transformer being cheap, but fear not it may just be a resistor blown under the valve base. Go get it checked out it may not be as bad as it appears.
Edit I see plenty of advice from Anthony - should have read full thread first lol
Regards Neil
It's under warranty, happily. Should have it back early next week.. I'll update once I've got a report back
Technics SL1210| Jelco SA-750| Benz Micro ACE SM MC| Squeezebox Touch/MCRU linear PSU | Cambridge Audio 851C | High Resolution Music Streamer II+ / Linestreamer+ | Raspberry Pi 2/IQ-Audio DAC+ / Max2Play | Conrad-Johnson ET3 Control Amplifier| Conrad-Johnson LP125sa KT120 Power Amplifier| Avalon NP Evo 2.0 Speakers| Cardas Audio Quadlink-5C Speaker Cables and Interconnects| Finite Elemente Pagode Signature E-14 equipment support