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Thread: Renovation of Celestion 66 Studio Monitors

  1. #11
    Join Date: Dec 2011

    Location: South downs

    Posts: 3,482
    I'm James.

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    The tweeter caps are already film [the one's bundled together] the rest are all 'lytics.

    Having been there & done it with a pair of 44 [near identical crossover] I would advise replacing the tweeter capacitors with decent modern polypropylene's & replacing the rest with Alcap low loss 'lytics from Falcon acoustics. In other words: get them back to "as intended" by Celestion first and then see how you feel about mods.

  2. #12
    Join Date: Nov 2010

    Location: Yorkshire

    Posts: 6,228
    I'm AnDreW.

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    Have a look on diyaudio.com with regards restoration threads for the 66's I think this may help you
    SS CD Teac VRDS25X(Mega Modded) DAC Caiman SEG+Anker PSU DECK 1210 Mat Analouge Studio Crystal Mods MN Base/Bearing/Platter+Ebony arm Board Feet Isonoe PSU Paul Hynes SR7EHD-27XL/DCSXL Ag DC lead/Jaeger(low-impedance) connector/3 StageRegs/Recapped PCB+No Pitch/Strobe/Light ARM SME V(Kondo Ag Rewire&Tags) MCOrtofon Cadenza Black CABLES Arm Yannis SPD-4 IC Yannis 222 Litz+Ag bullets Power WAR PRE ATC SCA2 SPEAKERS ATC 50ASL STANDS Atacama PHONO Sugden Masterclass PA4 SUT Ortofon ST80SE POWER PSAudio P10

    Valve PRECroft Epoch(Mega Modded) AMP Sondex S100 SPEAKERS Tannoy 15"MG+RFC Warwick cabs+ Reference XO DECK Garrard301 MatTeunto GunMetal Bearing401 PlinthMoldovan Arm SME 3012(Ikeda Ag wired) PSUPheonix PSU+Tachomter MCAg Meister SPU/DECCA Maroon CABLESArm Yannis 420.5 Litz+ Speaker3mm2Ag IC Oyaide FTVS-510 AgWBT 0110Ag Phonostage4Box Paradise


  3. #13
    Join Date: Jan 2013

    Location: Durham - UK

    Posts: 1,111
    I'm Ken.

    Default Update

    Rexton - have a read of my previous posting.

    istari_knight - Thanks for the tip.



    Word has it that the 66's need to be up off the floor and well isolated for the bass to perform properly. I am fitting 3 of these "Soundcare" feet to each speaker base. They are like a spike which caries round its own floor cup/shoe, the big stainless washer is to prevent the fairly small diameter neck from biting into the veneer.
    These will then stand on a custom made concrete plinth with a profile that matches the cabinet. This will have 4 adjustable spiked feet and a spirit bubble set into the centre, allowing the plinth to be levelled before putting the speakers in place.






    The Midrange Driver had its front plate removed and the crud cleaned from the inside and from the dome. This was then reassembled and tested, given a final polish and is ready to install.






    The ABR has been cleaned and is also ready to go back into the cabinet.
    Ken

    http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/
    DIY Technics/ProJect based Turntable + Terminator linear tracker + Denon DL-301 mkII / Pro-Ject Phono box & Pre Box RS / KMTech Active X-Over / Nakamichi AVP1 Power / Yamaha NS1000M / Stello CDT100 Transport / DAC Magic.

  4. #14
    Join Date: Oct 2013

    Location: Wrexham

    Posts: 888
    I'm Darren.

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    Looking good! What did you use to clean the ABR?
    Darren.

    Turn Table. Garrard 401, Reso Mat, 2 Tier Slate Plinth, DIY Hadcock GH242, Nick G modded Lentek, Denon DL-103.
    CDP/BDP/DAC. Oppo 105D. Cassette Deck Technics RS-AZ7.
    Pre Amps. Croft Super Micro 2 / Oppo 105D. Power Amps Quad 405 Mono Blocks / Nakamichi AVP1. Interconnects Klotz MC5000, MS Audio.
    Front Speakers. Celestion Ditton 44. Centre Speaker. B&O Beovox 5700. Surround Speakers. Celestion UL8 Rear Speakers Celestion Ditton 11.
    Rack. Mana Acoustics.
    Gallery. http://theartofsound.net/forum/showt...-of-the-70%92s

  5. #15
    Join Date: Aug 2009

    Location: Staffordshire, England

    Posts: 15,042
    I'm Martin.

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    Those drivers look brand new now. You can't beat a speaker restoration thread especially when it's a good big 'un being restored.
    Martin



    Current Lash Up:

    Technics SL1200 with Sumiko h/s & Nagaoka MP50 * Firebottle valve MM phono stage * Parasound CDPi1000 * NVA P90SA passive pre / Krell KSA50S Power amp * JM Lab Electra 926 loudspeakers *


  6. #16
    Join Date: Jan 2013

    Location: Durham - UK

    Posts: 1,111
    I'm Ken.

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    Darren - I leveled the worst of the blobs in the gunk on the ABR face with some 400 grade abrasive, carefully as its only made from Polystyrene. Then applied a light coat of water based satin black paint (Acrylic Wilko own brand) some paints will disolve the styrene but acrylic is safe. This gave the styrene and glue an even colour just paint this, not the rubber or centre disc. The rubber and bittumen centre disc was given a coat of black trim wax and buffed with a clean cloth when dry, this cleans and feeds the rubber and helps protect it from drying out and cracking, oh and it looks good too.

    UPDATE:



    The replacement bass drivers arrived. The seller mounted them on plywood boards with spacers so the rubber surrounds wouldn't be under pressure. Then he wedged them face to face, diagonally in a thick polystyrene box, which was then in a stout cardboard box. I think the delivery guy could have dropped them from the van and kicked them to the door and they would have been undamaged - but I'm glad he didn't. They measure well and play music through the x-over so will just have a light clean up before being installed. Many of these drivers have had after market cone treatments applied these look original and unmolested.
    Last edited by Qwin; 15-04-2014 at 18:01.
    Ken

    http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/
    DIY Technics/ProJect based Turntable + Terminator linear tracker + Denon DL-301 mkII / Pro-Ject Phono box & Pre Box RS / KMTech Active X-Over / Nakamichi AVP1 Power / Yamaha NS1000M / Stello CDT100 Transport / DAC Magic.

  7. #17
    Join Date: Jan 2013

    Location: Durham - UK

    Posts: 1,111
    I'm Ken.

    Default Update

    Found out the tweeters are both blown, open circuit between contacts, I suspected they may have been so it's no biggie.

    I've purchased a matched pair in pristine condition from a guy in California. When I say matched I mean they both measure exactly the same resistance. The base drivers are pretty close as well with only 0.1 Ohm difference between them.
    Ken

    http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/
    DIY Technics/ProJect based Turntable + Terminator linear tracker + Denon DL-301 mkII / Pro-Ject Phono box & Pre Box RS / KMTech Active X-Over / Nakamichi AVP1 Power / Yamaha NS1000M / Stello CDT100 Transport / DAC Magic.

  8. #18
    Join Date: Jan 2013

    Location: Durham - UK

    Posts: 1,111
    I'm Ken.

    Default Update



    This is one of the x-over boards from my “Blackies”.
    The values may be useful to some folks.
    Ken

    http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/
    DIY Technics/ProJect based Turntable + Terminator linear tracker + Denon DL-301 mkII / Pro-Ject Phono box & Pre Box RS / KMTech Active X-Over / Nakamichi AVP1 Power / Yamaha NS1000M / Stello CDT100 Transport / DAC Magic.

  9. #19
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Wrexham, North Wales, UK

    Posts: 67,221
    I'm AudioAl'sArbiterForPISHANTO.

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    Thanks for sharing that, Ken. Love the fact that all the components are hard-wired, point to point - when done properly it's so much better than using PCBs.

    I've not touched the crossovers yet on my 66s, but would quite like to upgrade the electrolytic capacitors with high-quality polys of the same value.

    Which ones are the electrolytics?

    Marco.
    "You have your way. I have my way. As for the right way, the correct way and the only way, it does not exist" - Friedrich Wilhelm Nietzsche.


    My system:

    Modified Technics SL-1210MK5G/Mike New high-precision bearing & baseplate/Mike New ETP platter/Bruil record weight/Nagaoka GL602 crystal T/T mat. Paul Hynes SR7EHD PSU (plus regulator modules)/DCSXL pure-silver DC lead. Ortofon RS-212D tonearm/'Speedy Steve' custom-made Ebony armboard. Yannis Tome 423.5 Phono Silver-Litz tonearm cable, with Furutech CF-DIN(R) and Eichmann silver Bullet Plugs. Cartridges: Denon DL-S1 in AT MG-10 headshell with AT-6106 Quattro Hybrid lead-wire. Denon DL-103C1 in '103U' headshell with AT-609 silver lead-wire. Vintage Denon DL-103AU in AT-Ti15ANV Titanium Headshell. Shure M55E in Denon PCL-300 headshell with 6N silver lead-wire. Shure original USA SC35C. Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 transport/DAC. Raspberry Pi-3 Model B and IQaudio Pi-DAC+/Paul Hynes SR3DR-05 linear PSU. Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X preamp. Modified Goldpoint SA4M-47 passive preamp. Stereo Coffee LDR. Head-amp: Paul Hynes design/SR5 PSU. Also modified Lentek. Tube Distinctions 50W Class A P/P Copper amp with cryo-treated Tung Sol KT150s. Speakers: 'Lockwood Majors', using 15" Tannoy Monitor Golds, modified with bespoke crossovers. Also Celestion Ditton 15XRs. Stands: Mana Acoustics (non-magnetic stainless steel 'clones’). Hi-Fi Racks Podium T/T wall shelf. Sony ST-5055L tuner. Cables: Furukawa EE/F-S 2mm & 2.6mm solid-core mains leads, fitted with Furutech FI-50 IECs and FI-1363Rs. Stereo interconnects: Sommer Carbokab 225 (with silver-plated MS Audio non-metallic POM RCAs). Speaker cable: VDH 'The Wind' Hybrid II. Digital coaxial cable: 1m Trompeter Electronics Triax TRC-75-2, with MS Audio ‘Starline' silver-plated RCAs. Mains block: Mark Grant 6-way, modded with Furutech FP-1363R sockets and Furukawa cable. Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW 16.5 record cleaner.

  10. #20
    Join Date: Jan 2013

    Location: Durham - UK

    Posts: 1,111
    I'm Ken.

    Default

    Marco - All bar the Tweeter caps are electrolytics.

    I will be replacing them all with Polyprops.

    When you replace the electrolytics you have to add a resistor in series with the Polyprop replacement.

    These are ESR simulating resistors to bring the replacements (low ESR) up to the original values of the Electrolytics (high ESR).

    If you don't do this the circuit will behave differently to the original.

    The Tweeter caps, on mine anyway, are film caps with low ESR so no resistors required when these are replaced, they used a variety of makes and qtys bundled in parallel to make the total value required.

    The bass coils and caps are a weak area regarding quality, apparently upgrading the coils with same value (mH) but approx half the dcR and changing lytics to props in this area will give tighter faster bass. The existing parts smear the sound.

    There is lots about this on diyaudio.

    I will be doing all this to mine but I am not touching the original x-overs. I am keeping these original and building new boards as every part will be changed and possibly a better layout on a bigger board. One point was raised over at diyaudio about coil interaction due to close proximity, the Celestion engineers were not fools and the circuits when new performed well, so maybe there was some interaction and was accounted for in values. If that was the case then giving better locations with similar values might produce worse results? It's a thought - if it ain’t broke don't fix it comes into mind here? Without building both versions and doing comparisons, it would be hard to guess about the outcome and who has the time for that amount of experimenting.

    I will be drawing up a circuit with values and parts to use soon, need to clarify one or two things first with the 66 guru on diyaudio. “Alan-1-b” seems to have a handle on what makes these things tick.
    Ken

    http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/
    DIY Technics/ProJect based Turntable + Terminator linear tracker + Denon DL-301 mkII / Pro-Ject Phono box & Pre Box RS / KMTech Active X-Over / Nakamichi AVP1 Power / Yamaha NS1000M / Stello CDT100 Transport / DAC Magic.

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