+ Reply to Thread
Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 30

Thread: Koetsu Re-tip advice needed....

  1. #11
    Join Date: Feb 2008

    Location: Down South

    Posts: 2,413
    I'm Neal.

    Default

    OK! Calm down, Calm down
    Listening in a Foo free Zone...

    Only a Sith deals in absolutes.

  2. #12
    Join Date: May 2008

    Location: A Strangely Isolated Place in Suffolk with Far Away Trains Passing By...

    Posts: 14,535
    I'm David.

    Default

    Wot I ment to say guv'nor, is that most cartridges of a particular type are very similar indeed under the skin and the rest is cachet and 'intellectual property' whatever that means in this instance

    Oh Gawd, seems as if I'm being patronising to the OP. I'm really not and apologies if I was taken this way
    Tear down these walls; Cut the ties that held me
    Crying out at the top of my voice; Tell me now if you can hear me

  3. #13
    Join Date: Apr 2012

    Location: N E Kent

    Posts: 51,625
    I'm Geoff.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DSJR View Post
    It's the CACHET of the Koetsu that tries to justify the expense.
    I thought the sound was the selling point. Koetsu MCs have always sounded excellent to me.
    It is impossible for anything digital to sound analogue, because it isn't analogue!

  4. #14
    Join Date: Dec 2011

    Location: Far Away

    Posts: 1,396
    I'm Gone.

    Default

    Hi Kyle

    I have used Koetsu for many years and I have the Rosewood Signature, after an accident it required a re-tip, so I sent it back to Japan via the UK Distributor. This was fully rebuilt and came back sounding like new. I will be sending back for another rebuild, either this year or early next. In my opinion, to paraphase Dave, a Ferrari needs genuine parts and mechanics. It really is the only way to go. With due respect to others who work on these carts, original works best for me

    Best of luck with it

  5. #15
    Join Date: May 2008

    Location: Lancaster(-ish), UK

    Posts: 16,937
    I'm ChrisB.

    Default

    I had my first Black (an original) re-tipped and cantilevered by van den Hul some years ago. The tip fell off within days! It was sent back and repaired, after which it was fine. It sounded very good indeed, but I thought it was different to how it had sounded originally.
    My second Black lost its tip in an accident and the whole cartridge was replaced through an insurance claim.

  6. #16
    Join Date: Nov 2008

    Location: belgrade serbia

    Posts: 840
    I'm gordan.

    Default

    Does anyone have any experience with Black Goldline and how sensitive are the coils in a relation to a cantilever damage? How big are the chances of broken coil(s) if the cantilever is pulled out?
    Gordan.
    Speakers: Oris Swing MkII
    Amps: Thomas Mayer 300b/ Hiraga La Maison de L'Audiophile 20
    Preamp: Silver AVC by eng. Ferenc Lazar
    Phono Preamp: Shishido LCR by Solaja Audio
    Decks: Garrard 301 Martin Bastin reworked/plinthed with Fidelity Research FR64fx
    Garrard 401 in eng Ferenc Lazar solid wenge plinth with SME 3012/2
    Cartridges: SPU Spirit/ Koetsu Black revisited by eng. Salai/ Miyajima Shilabe
    Step Up Transformers: Tango MCT 999/ Ortofon T-5000/ Lumiere SUT
    Digital: Shigaclone by eng. Ferenc Lazar with Lampizator Amber II
    Wires: of sufficient length

  7. #17
    Join Date: Apr 2009

    Location: Near Saffron Walden, Essex

    Posts: 7,090
    I'm Dave.

    Default

    Surely, if the cantilever has been pulled out, the coils have been damaged ? The coils are affixed to the cantilever, I believe.

  8. #18
    Join Date: Nov 2008

    Location: belgrade serbia

    Posts: 840
    I'm gordan.

    Default

    doesnt have to be in my experience and it mostly depend on a type of the cantilever. hard ones like ruby or boron or similar have higher chances to do so in comparison with aluminium. that's why i asked for black, i think the original cantilever was a type of composite alu, quite a soft one.
    Gordan.
    Speakers: Oris Swing MkII
    Amps: Thomas Mayer 300b/ Hiraga La Maison de L'Audiophile 20
    Preamp: Silver AVC by eng. Ferenc Lazar
    Phono Preamp: Shishido LCR by Solaja Audio
    Decks: Garrard 301 Martin Bastin reworked/plinthed with Fidelity Research FR64fx
    Garrard 401 in eng Ferenc Lazar solid wenge plinth with SME 3012/2
    Cartridges: SPU Spirit/ Koetsu Black revisited by eng. Salai/ Miyajima Shilabe
    Step Up Transformers: Tango MCT 999/ Ortofon T-5000/ Lumiere SUT
    Digital: Shigaclone by eng. Ferenc Lazar with Lampizator Amber II
    Wires: of sufficient length

  9. #19
    Join Date: Mar 2012

    Location: south wales

    Posts: 9
    I'm paul.

    Default

    The best retip is done yer aj van den hul, he will match a cantilever to the tip, he is the master at this, and, more than probably, because of the the stylus profile, it will sound better. Than new, he will also rebuild the suspension, this is Very Important, as the rubber ages it becomes hard and has a massive effect on sound quality, again Vdh will do this, he is the only man I trust to do this, hope this is helpful.

  10. #20
    Join Date: Apr 2012

    Location: N E Kent

    Posts: 51,625
    I'm Geoff.

    Default

    Dominic Harper at Northwest Analogue has many happy customers. His site has loads of interesting photos of the intricate and expert work carried out.

    http://www.northwestanalogue.com/
    It is impossible for anything digital to sound analogue, because it isn't analogue!

+ Reply to Thread
Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •